YM 2500 Air Filter

[RobJ]

And on the right is a NAPA filter that someone here recommended. I took it back. It is 1/8" too tall which keeps the lid of the filter housing from sealing. It also has far less element for the dirt to be trapped in. It might look close in a catalog listing, but it simply is not suitable.

Ok I was just kidding, but you can do a lot with duct tape, ask NASA and Apollo 13. A square filter will work in a round hole!!

But to be serious, the thinner vs. thicker should not an issue. The "car looking" filter looks like a standard type filter with pleats. Ok so the thicker one has deeper pleats. If you are waiting for the pleats to fill up before replacing or at least knocking the loose stuff out against the tires, you need to change your PM schedule for those harsh conditions. In my days as a mechanic, I only saw a couple cases where the filter was totally clogged. Most of the operators knew in a high dust or harsh condition, the filters need to be checked daily. Hard for some to think daily. Same as changing the oil every 100 hours. Some of these running water pumps or gen sets, that 100 hours came every 4 days!! Not 3 months.

Everything else I agree with!

Rob

 

[California]

... suggesting trying his local tractor/feed store for a cross reference...

John, I shouldn't speak for LMTC but something we have seen in the Yanmar forum a million times is someone with good intentions looking up and posting what 'should be'. And would be, if these were American tractors.

But the gray Yanmars are really only supported by the dealers who post here and several other specialists who occasionally are seen here. Nobody else - Wix, Baldwin, NAPA, somebody's brother-in-law, has the accurate knowledge that these guy have gained by hands-on experience. It just isn't documented anywhere else. These gray Yanmars have excellent support, just not by the traditional big American businesses.

It's unusual in American business but the usual accurate sources, unfortunately, are always wrong if their listings contradict what these hands-on folks learned by experience.

Then when somebody argues with them, well, I can see why someone who worked hard for the experience might be a little short on patience after the 1,000th time answering the same question.

 

[prb51]

On the 2000 model the thickness/width of the filter body does count. In the filter housing there is an inner rubber seal that must engage the inner circumference of the filter to properly seal. A filter with less depth wouldn't seal properly. The outer lid seal just keeps the air/dirt/dust from entering elswhere than the intake tube.
This may be the same issue on the 2500.
I clean mine daily because of the dust from working in the desert and the stock filter really works well. I'd not experiment with an almost just to save a few bucks.
Are there any issues with a wix oil filter or fuel filter? I've not changed those out yet.

 

[California]

Are there any issues with a wix oil filter or fuel filter?

That's like asking about synthetic oil. Everybody has an opinion, nobody's opinion is based on realistic testing that would give a definitive answer.

Search here on 1064 and 1334 (both in the same search) to see previous discussions. Wix shows 51064 (5 just means 'Wix') for YM240, US version of YM2000. It's a common filter. If 1064 fits YM2000 then it should fit nearly all the smaller YM's as well.

1334 is similar, same interface (threads and gasket), has a larger enclosure which might mean better cooling or longer use before it plugs up. 1334 is near-universal on all Hondas so you should be able to find it anywhere. Some of the aftermarket Yanmar parts dealers call their 'unique custom filter for Yanmar' a 1334 for some reason.

There are some applications (YM2000B etc) where the 1334 is too big to fit the available space, only the little 1064 will fit.

1064 has a higher relief vave pressure. If I remember, 12 psi compared to 8 on the 1334. (It's in one of the posts that the search will bring up). I don't know how this is significant.

Me, I use the NAPA Gold 1064. After you open the box, 'Wix' is stamped on the filter cannister. I think the lesser volume is an advantage, it reduces the time before full oil pressure is reached on a cold start. (And I spin it with compresssion released to get some oil pressure, too). That's just opinion, I'm sure others have other opinions.

The fuel filter is the only one where I prefer Genuine Yanmar. I think it's more critical, to protect the expensive pump and injector system, compared to the oil filter. I bought a Napa Gold fuel filter last time and the element has 'India' stamped on it. It should work fine but I think I'll go back to real Yanmar next time.

 

[prb51]

California,
The stock filter bypass (YM2000) opens @ 11 to 17 psi indicating a pretty high psi for that area in the system. An 8 psi bypass (1334) may allow bypass under normal conditions.

 

[California]

The stock filter bypass (YM2000) opens @ 11 to 17 psi indicating a pretty high psi for that area in the system. An 8 psi bypass (1334) may allow bypass under normal conditions.

We're getting into stuff here that properly belongs over in the oil threads, but anyhow... I think those pressure relief figures are the point where dirty oil bypasses a plugged filter. In automotive use, there are owners who never change oil or do it so infrequently that a bypass is important. Or maybe this is related to cold weather starts when cold oil won't go through the filter element.

Yanmar recommends changing the filter only with every other oil change. I think most of us change the filter twice as often. And I hope most of us spin the engine with compression released to show some oil pressure, as part of a cold weather start.

So I don't think that bypass ever gets used due to dirty oil on a properly maintained engine. Bypassing relatively clean oil in freezing weather is probably harmless. Considering all this, I don't see that the bypass pressure rating is an important number.

If anyone really knows something about this, I would like to learn more.

 

[MikePA]

Posts that replace letters with other letters or special characters to bypass TBN profanity filters will be deleted. One such post in this thread has been removed.

 

[prb51]

California,
I believe the integral filter bypass responds to pressure to operate the valve as you described.
It only operates when the pressure overcomes the spring allowing oil to pass thru the tube and avoiding the filter element.
If the pressure of the oil system is higher than the set spring in the filter it will bypass the fitler element regardless of the cleanliness of the filter.
In other words a clogged filter will raise the pressure to the opening psi and a high pressure system coupled with a low psi valve could have the same effect I believe.
I don't change out the oil filter on my car at every service either if it is a low mile change as filters actually clean better with a bit of use (dirt) in them, I just remove and dump and replace.
Yanmar Diesels have high pressure oil systems considering the rpm range and I'd stick to a higher psi bypass filter.

 

[Travis_R]

California,
I believe the integral filter bypass responds to pressure to operate the valve as you described.
It only operates when the pressure overcomes the spring allowing oil to pass thru the tube and avoiding the filter element.
If the pressure of the oil system is higher than the set spring in the filter it will bypass the fitler element regardless of the cleanliness of the filter.
In other words a clogged filter will raise the pressure to the opening psi and a high pressure system coupled with a low psi valve could have the same effect I believe.
I don't change out the oil filter on my car at every service either if it is a low mile change as filters actually clean better with a bit of use (dirt) in them, I just remove and dump and replace.
Yanmar Diesels have high pressure oil systems considering the rpm range and I'd stick to a higher psi bypass filter.

I know this thread was from 2008, and it’s now May of 2025.
I buy all my filters and parts only from a Yanmar dealer who sells (and/or manufactures) parts for the vintage Yanmar tractors. They know their stuff and will have what you need.

I highly recommend the following:

1) Fredricks Equipment in Hartselle, Alabama
www.fredricksequipment.com

2) Brand M Parts in Midland, Texas
www.brandmparts.com

3) Southern Global Tractor Parts in Wiggins, Mississippi
www.southern-global.com

4) All States Ag
www.partsasap.com

 

[bmaverick]

I know this thread was from 2008, and it’s now May of 2025.
I buy all my filters and parts only from a Yanmar dealer who sells (and/or manufactures) parts for the vintage Yanmar tractors. They know their stuff and will have what you need.

I highly recommend the following:

1) Fredricks Equipment in Hartselle, Alabama
www.fredricksequipment.com

2) Brand M Parts in Midland, Texas
www.brandmparts.com

3) Southern Global Tractor Parts in Wiggins, Mississippi
www.southern-global.com

4) All States Ag
www.partsasap.com

As an FYI, the Yanmar filters are commercial off the shelf used on Mitsubishi, Satoh, Iseki, Shabrua, Hinomoto, Kubota, etc machines. These are a common commodity.

The real problem is, having a parts distributor who is buying in bulk for 1 size fits all. Some of these filters can be close in length by up to 10mm or ~1/2 inch. If you have the wrong length, air will bypass the filter allowing dust, sand and other particulates in causing engine wear.

Ideally, you want to measure the length of an existing good fitting filter, make a note of this in your tractor log or clipboard for maintenance. When you order a replacement in time, verify the length.

This also applies to the fuel bowl, o-ring and filter. If there is space for a taller fuel filter bowl and filter, then do it.