Yet another shed project.

[N80]

We've seen dozens of pole barn and shed threads here at TBN, but here's my contribution which may well be the cheapest one we've seen so far.

This is going to be a low budget deal. Dirt floor, open sides. Posts are 4x6's straight in the ground, no concrete. The roof coverage will be 36x24'. It will have three bays. Clearance on the front is 10.5'. Eight and a half on the back.

This is the first days work, not counting digging the holes. This is the middle bay. There will be another bay on each side. My wife, my 17 year old son and I are doing the work:

In the picture, each header has been nailed in place but later that day I added carriage bolts as well. The two diagonal braces on the outside are temporary. I'm still trying to figure how much permanent diagonal bracing I'll need. Rafters are 3' O.C. There will be 2x4 nailers at 2' O.C. on top of those to screw the metal roof onto.

As of the time we knocked off yesterday, everything was square, level and plumb to within about 3/4" inch and I'm satisfied with that (its a shed, not a piano ). There really isn't much that's critical on this thing. If the headers are level then the only critical part is getting the nailers and roof on square.

 

[LD1]

Nice looking shed so far.

I think the diagonal bracing that you have so far on the front and middle poles will be sufficcient, if they are done to all of the posts.

How much snow do you get down there. It's not a very steep roof but it does look like a good sizes headder board. What did you use, 2x10? 2x12?

I'm sure you already know this too, but going 3' with the rafers, 12' 2x4 nailers is to only thing that will work out with no waste.

 

[TBDonnelly]

As of the time we knocked off yesterday, everything was square, level and plumb to within about 3/4" inch and I'm satisfied with that (its a shed, not a piano ).

Late yesterday, I rode by on a galloping horse and everything looked level to me!

Don

 

[N80]

How much snow do you get down there.['quote]

Almost none.

It's not a very steep roof but it does look like a good sizes headder board. What did you use, 2x10? 2x12?

I used 2x10s. Double on the front and middle to sandwich the 4x4 corner braces. Single on the rear since there are no corner barces there (they would come down too low). I will use diagonal bracing on the rear posts.

 

[N80]

Late yesterday, I rode by on a galloping horse and everything looked level to me!

Don

Hey, if the rain runs off it and the wind doesn't blow it over, that's good enough for me!

 

[MrJimi]

How come you don't have any termites in SC ?
we have plenty just down the road from you, want some ?

 

[N80]

We got plenty of termites! And they may eat this thing to the ground. But there are pole barns all over this area that are easily 50-75 years old, that are untended and still standing. Of course most of them are made of cedar.

I think that with the treated posts embedded in this dense clay that termites will not be a big problem. I've got a yard swing with 6x6 posts that have been there 3-4 years with no evidence of termites.

 

[MrJimi]

Just pour some used motor oil on the lower parts that are in ground Shh

 

[Redbug]

You got a real good start, George. Is the shed to store your tractor and attachments in? Is it going to have open sides with a covered back? One thing to think about or add later are some shelves along the walls to store smaller items and get them off the floor. Looking good.

 

[N80]

Just pour some used motor oil on the lower parts that are in ground Shh

Shame on you. The polar bears and penguins are in enough trouble as it is.

 

[N80]

You got a real good start, George. Is the shed to store your tractor and attachments in? Is it going to have open sides with a covered back? One thing to think about or add later are some shelves along the walls to store smaller items and get them off the floor. Looking good.

For now, just open all the way around. Some siding, shelving, etc will probably come later (already scheming about that). Fortunately I have a 10x16 tool shed nearby.

 

[MrJimi]

Ok, I'll stand in the corner now
I watched a great special on TV about the penquins and it made me very sad
When I put my PT power pole in the ground, I got some roofing tar and thinned out and applied it with a brush like the power companys do at the base

 

[N80]

Ok, I'll stand in the corner now
I watched a great special on TV about the penquins and it made me very sad
When I put my PT power pole in the ground, I got some roofing tar and thinned out and applied it with a brush like the power companys do at the base

I used to work at the phone company during the summers, putting up and taking down poles. We did not apply anything to them, neither the PT nor older creosote poles. Just stuck them straight in the ground.

However, when pulling the old (I mean old) creosote poles, some of them would be rotten at the base.

I imagine a good coating of tar or creosote would be a good idea. I wonder if you can even get creosote anymore.

 

[Redbug]

I know the railroads are exempted from the law and still use creosoted cross ties along railways. I believe it is still used pretty extensively overseas, too. Also, the older pressure treated wood with copper arsenate is allowed around here for some ag, foundation, and marine uses.
I also have painted roofing tar, (blackjack), on pole bottoms before being put in the ground. I don't know how a person could fanagle to get a bucket or two of creosote. Ahhh...the good old days...blasting caps, etc...

 

[N80]

I used to hate climbing the PT poles. The wood is spongy and your spikes just sort of push in. In the old creosote poles the spikes cut in and felt very secure. I always felt like the PT poles were trying to push my spikes back out.

But, if you fell while climbing a creosote pole, the instinct to hug the pole was rewarded with a chest full of splinters. The PT poles were much more pleasant to hug.

 

[Redbug]

I also have spikes, with the longer gaffs for trees. Poles use a shorter type. Nowdays, for pruning I use climbing gear with ropes and ascenders to keep from injuring a good tree. I'm not in as good a shape as I used to be, though... Tree climbing has become a real sport nowdays. Kinda like rock climbing.

 

[EddieWalker]

Gearge,

For me, I'm just as excited about a fancy building as I am about a simple one. The challenge is in making it strong with less money. One of my favorite ways to build!!!!

Eddie

 

[N80]

Here's a question for you guys. I'm going to put a metal roof on it. The cheapest stuff is the galvanized 'grand rib' which is what is on my cabin. The local lumber yard has the best prices. The roof is 24' front to back so my initial plan was to get 14' and 12' sections with 2' of overlap.

But, to get 14' sections I'll have to borrow or rent a trailer. Sections that big will also be a real pain to handle for me, my wife and my son, especially getting them up there. And it is often breezy here too.

So I began to think about using 10' and 8' sections. They will be much easier for me to haul using my own truck and trailer. What I'd have is a 10, then a 10 then an 8, each with 2' of overlap. This may be more expensive and there will be more 'joints' too. But would there be any other downsides to using more smaller panels vs fewer large ones?

 

[N80]

I made some phone calls. Using 10' and 8' sections will only cost about $40 more than using 14' and 12' sections.

And I realize that more seams = more potential leaks but it will be so much easier for me to use smaller panels.

I do wonder about runoff though. My pitch is very very shallow. I don't guess more seams will impact that?

 

[EddieWalker]

The important thing about a shallow pitch is to be sure and seal your overlaps. Use sticky tape from the manufacturer, not just any brand.

Eddie