Yard Roller

   / Yard Roller #21  
StoneHeartFarm Steve,

All size bars are available through any steel products provider. You may not be able to find it at your local DIY, etc. 1" is a standard size for bar. Good Luck.
 
   / Yard Roller #22  
Bearings eh?

Nope, not on mine. I friend and I put it together in about 2 hours. I had a 40 gallon water tank that we cut all the fittings off of. Patched the holes with sheet metal and brazing rod. Welded a large nut to one end and then blew the center out with a torch to serve as a filler hole. We welded two pieces of 1" round bar, each about 8" long to each end of the tank. The towing frame was made out of old 1.5" tubing that was lying around. We welded to short lengths of 1" ID tubing to the ends to fit over the bar stock. Shot about 3 seconds worth of WD40 between the bar and the tube to eliminate squeaking.

Not the prettiest thing but we only see it once a year and it does indeed make the lawn more flat.
 
   / Yard Roller #23  
Paul,

That's real similar to the last one I saw made. They used a small steel drum (30 gallon?) and used a pice of 2" steel pipe the same length as the drum. This pipe was placed in the center of the drum and holes were made top and bottom for it. The drum was then filled with cement. A c-shaped arrangement was made of 1" pipe and it fit around the ends of the drum, with the ends of the c fitting into the open 2" pipe. This created a (loose and kinda sloppy) axle, and a handle attached to the center of the c allowed the whole unit to be pulled or pushed.

Steve
 
   / Yard Roller #24  
A concrete cylinder 30" dia x 46" long would contain a volume of 35515 cubic inches or 0.7 yds. at 4000 lbs/yd Sounds like closer to 2800 lbs to me.
 
   / Yard Roller
  • Thread Starter
#25  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( They used a small steel drum (30 gallon?) and used a pice of 2" steel pipe the same length as the drum. )</font>

Ok I have heard of people using the 30 and 55 gallon drums and even a culvert. But each of these items have the grooves in them. My thinking is that is ok, in fact the culvert might do the best job because of the grooves but was told that they don't work so good. Any comments for the groove department.


murph
 
   / Yard Roller #26  
I agree. I did the math and came up with 2800 lbs. but werent 100% so didnt say anything. I am gonna get it tomorrow and will attach picture with my tractor hauling it when I get it. I will let you know how the 33d does hauling it.
 
   / Yard Roller #27  
Murph

The people that had the one I saw didn't seem to be bothered any by the ridges. I've never heard of using them for culvert. Seems like they'd rust out fairly quick. Do they tar over them or something?

Steve
 
   / Yard Roller
  • Thread Starter
#28  
He just said he filled it with concrete. It was a galvanized one so it may last a while. If it did rust out the concrete would be there but suspectable to breaking up if the culvert wasn't there to protect it.

I may just go ahead and make one and if it only last five years that is fine.


murph
 
   / Yard Roller #29  
I tried out the roller. It is about 3000lbs total. I wouldnt want to go any heavier if you have some hills. It flattened the bumps about 50% I would say in my field. It seem to take out the small humps but not the bigger ones. I am going to roll it again next spring a little earlier then this and should get it good enough. It is terrible to haul a teddar through the field it so bumpy and reeks havoc with the tines. I attched a picture when clean.......
 

Attachments

  • 268035-33D with roller.jpg
    268035-33D with roller.jpg
    93.1 KB · Views: 334
   / Yard Roller #30  
Here is picture when it got stuck in a soft spot. Got my tractor all dirty /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif I had to hook a chain on to it and get on dry ground 30 feet away to pull it out. Wasnt easy!
 

Attachments

  • 268037-33D with roller stuck.jpg
    268037-33D with roller stuck.jpg
    85.9 KB · Views: 432
 

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