Yard Hydrants

turnkey4099 · May 15, 2006

( ( save your money and just install galv pipe coming up with a faucet on the end: it will freeze, but it will not burst, unless you try to cover it up to protect it: do this on the ones your definetly not going to use when the temp is below freezing, and save youself a lot of money and future work...repairing messed up yard hydrants...been there..
heehaw )

Agree. Use the money saved to put some self-draining valves in your lines. Put one at the base of each of your hydrants, and use common galvanizied pipe and valve for the hydrant. (I used regular black 160lb poly for my lines.) When you shut the water pressure off to your hydrants in winter (which I recommend), just open the valves and the remaining water in the lines will drain out through the self-draining valves, preventing freezing... )

Wish I had know that years and years ago. I put in 6 when I had my well drilled. One became mechanically froze up almost immediately to the point I couldn't force it open using a cheater. My most used one next to the drive did the same thing last year. Too bad I can't dig that one up as I would have to destroy a very nice mature birch tree now (hydrant is right at it's base). Another one is 'very' stiff to operate.

I wished many times that I had installed standard standpipe and stop-n-waste valves.

Harry K

DaveNay · May 15, 2006

( When you shut the water pressure off to your hydrants in winter (which I recommend), just open the valves and the remaining water in the lines will drain out through the self-draining valves, preventing freezing... )

This doesn't do much good when you need to use the hydrants all winter for watering livestock. I think that's the entire purpose of installing "frost-proof" hydrants. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

A trick that a local guy taught me was to use a length of 6" corrugated drain tile (5'-6' long) to provide drainage space. After trenching and putting down some gravel, and a big rock as a base, then run your supply line through the corrugated to your elbow. Then cut a slot lengthwise in the corrugated, so that the riser pipe can fit into it. Top off with a little more gravel, and then backfill. This will help prevent the gravel from becoming silted in over time.

DaveNay · May 15, 2006

( When you shut the water pressure off to your hydrants in winter (which I recommend), just open the valves and the remaining water in the lines will drain out through the self-draining valves, preventing freezing... )

This doesn't do much good when you need to use the hydrants all winter for watering livestock. I think that's the entire purpose of installing "frost-proof" hydrants. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

A trick that a local guy taught me was to use a length of 6" corrugated drain tile (5'-6' long) to provide drainage space. After trenching and putting down some gravel, and a big rock as a base, then run your supply line through the corrugated to your elbow. Then cut a slot lengthwise in the corrugated, so that the riser pipe can fit into it. Top off with a little more gravel, and then backfill. This will help prevent the gravel from becoming silted in over time.

KentT · May 15, 2006

(
This doesn't do much good when you need to use the hydrants all winter for watering livestock. I think that's the entire purpose of installing "frost-proof" hydrants. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

)
Perhaps -- but he never mentioned anything other than "frost-proof" and there's other ways to achieve the same result...

KentT · May 15, 2006

(
This doesn't do much good when you need to use the hydrants all winter for watering livestock. I think that's the entire purpose of installing "frost-proof" hydrants. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

)
Perhaps -- but he never mentioned anything other than "frost-proof" and there's other ways to achieve the same result...

BlueRidge · May 15, 2006

Hmmm. Do ya suppose it just might get a bit colder in Utah than it does in Arkansas?

Nah, couldn't be. If it worked in Arkansas it MUST work in Utah!

Except it won't. Galv pipe will break in Utah.

BlueRidge · May 15, 2006

Hmmm. Do ya suppose it just might get a bit colder in Utah than it does in Arkansas?

Nah, couldn't be. If it worked in Arkansas it MUST work in Utah!

Except it won't. Galv pipe will break in Utah.

HammerFour · May 16, 2006

Shutting off the water to them won't work when the same pipe sevices the self filling livestock waterer.

I wouldn't put a concrete pad around one in cause you need to dig it up and replace/repair it.

That said, ours work fine, haven't needed any digging or repairing. They do get stiff if they haven't been used for a couple months, I try and remember to turn them on for a second and back off a couple times during the winter.

The galvanized pipe with water all the way to the faucet in it sticking out of the ground would freeze and split around here as well ( nw Missouri ).

Back to the original question, make sure you put a nice pocket of gravel around the base of the hydrant so it has room to drain into when you shut it off.

If you have problems with one freezing up because it won't drain, hook a hose from another hydrant on to the hydrant that keeps freezing ( with the freezing up hydrant in the off position ) and turn on the other hydrant. That will hopefully blast out whatever is plugging the little drain hole at the bottom of the hydrant that keeps freezing up.

HammerFour · May 16, 2006

Shutting off the water to them won't work when the same pipe sevices the self filling livestock waterer.

I wouldn't put a concrete pad around one in cause you need to dig it up and replace/repair it.

That said, ours work fine, haven't needed any digging or repairing. They do get stiff if they haven't been used for a couple months, I try and remember to turn them on for a second and back off a couple times during the winter.

The galvanized pipe with water all the way to the faucet in it sticking out of the ground would freeze and split around here as well ( nw Missouri ).

Back to the original question, make sure you put a nice pocket of gravel around the base of the hydrant so it has room to drain into when you shut it off.

If you have problems with one freezing up because it won't drain, hook a hose from another hydrant on to the hydrant that keeps freezing ( with the freezing up hydrant in the off position ) and turn on the other hydrant. That will hopefully blast out whatever is plugging the little drain hole at the bottom of the hydrant that keeps freezing up.

plumboy · May 16, 2006

I agree about the concrete personaly,but a 18"x2" pad breaks up easy with a sledge and only cost a couple of bucks to put down and makes a nice base for the hydrant.I find it hard to believe someone would run a line and stick galv pipe with a stop on it any where theres a chance of freezing.All the trouble of running a line somewhere just to jimmy it up.