Yanmar 1401 Stuck Arms 3 point jammed

[JPS3]

Hi everyone

Not sure if I am in the right category here as I am trying to help someone with their small tractor.

Its a Yanmar 1401 and the problem with it is the arms will not raise or lower.

The PTO works fine and engages in all 3 positions

I have attached some photos so you can see it and I have looked on line for a service and user manual. So far I have found a generic user manual for it and a parts catalogue in Chinese!!

He told me he had changed the oil using a red HV46 which he says is the correct one for this model but he had not removed and cleaned the filter which I did today.

Sadly it didn't make any difference and the arms still remain stuck in the Up Position.

I tried altering the flow Valve and I can feel the Operating Lever Selector Spring when I push it forward for Up but not so much when I pull it back for Down.

We have both tried pulling the arms down by hand but it appears seized or locked there.

I am not sure if by removing the the top over plate would allow access to free it off? or if there is a safety override lock that needs resetting?

So I would welcome any advice on how to fix it?

 

[oldnslo]

Not familiar with Yanmar but on a lot of different brands there is a knob usually located below the seat for controlling how fast the 3 point will lower or drop. If this is closed the arms will raise and stay in raised position.

Hopefully some knowledgeable in Yanmar will chime in and confirm this is an option on that model.

 

[JPS3]

Not familiar with Yanmar but on a lot of different brands there is a knob usually located below the seat for controlling how fast the 3 point will lower or drop. If this is closed the arms will raise and stay in raised position.

Hopefully some knowledgeable in Yanmar will chime in and confirm this is an option on that model.

Thanks for the reply as I said I did try adjusting the knob but sadly it made no difference

 

[JPS3]

I think I got the terminology wrong I probably should have said rear end loader

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

I think I got the terminology wrong I probably should have said rear end loader

3-point lift arms

 

[JPS3]

3-point lift arms

Thanks for the reply i hope tour arm is getting better!!!

 

[JPS3]

Thank you for all the replies and advice. I have done some further research and I think that the 3 point piston is jammed and is either rusted inside or a blockage.

I cannot find a good diagram or photos of this and although some links have been posted referencing southern tractors when I click on them they just go to their homepage

So if anyone has any photos or diagrams they could post I would be very grateful.

 

[Little Red Tractor]

I had a 28 horsepower Cub Cadet that would occasionally lock the three point arms in the up position, even with a load on them. I had to crack the supply line connector and bleed off a bit of hydraulic fluid each time. Once it started going down, I retightened the connection. I only had it happen a few times in the 10 years or so I owned the tractor.
Maybe you can do something similar.

 

[CoyPatton]

I think I got the terminology wrong I probably should have said rear end loader

Hi everyone

Not sure if I am in the right category here as I am trying to help someone with their small tractor.

Its a Yanmar 1401 and the problem with it is the arms will not raise or lower.

The PTO works fine and engages in all 3 positions

I have attached some photos so you can see it and I have looked on line for a service and user manual. So far I have found a generic user manual for it and a parts catalogue in Chinese!!

He told me he had changed the oil using a red HV46 which he says is the correct one for this model but he had not removed and cleaned the filter which I did today.

Sadly it didn't make any difference and the arms still remain stuck in the Up Position.

I tried altering the flow Valve and I can feel the Operating Lever Selector Spring when I push it forward for Up but not so much when I pull it back for Down.

We have both tried pulling the arms down by hand but it appears seized or locked there.

I am not sure if by removing the the top over plate would allow access to free it off? or if there is a safety override lock that needs resetting?

So I would welcome any advice on how to fix it?

I own a Yanmar YM2002D. I have never had this problem with my tractor, but have read in forums (from the former Hoye Tractor site of this issue) unfortunately, Hoye Tractors has closed as Aaron decided to retire) and I believe that all of their material is no longer accessible. I did read once that a member (maybe Bmaverick) was trying to save that information, but not sure if it happened or how far along he may gave in the process.
At any rate, I believe the service process was to remove the top of the rear transaxle to access the piston. From there you will have to assess if the piston is jammed due to rust or other issues or needs parts.
I believe all of the TM models, suffered from water getting into the hydraulic fluid reservoir as they got age on them if they sat where rain could get to them. Boots dry out and crack, and other spots lose there seal.
Not sure about the 1401, but most of that era Yanmar called for 303 hydraulic fluid. This is an old standard, and typically not available as the original formula was based on whale oil. I know that in my state if you have any 303, it is illegal to sale it. At last I checked you could possess it, but not sale snd even giving it away was frowned on. From what I have read most recommend using the current JD Hygard or comparable fluid.
I believe Yesterday’s tractors bought most of Hoye’s stock.
Best of luck with your repairs.

 

[dml7953]

Not sure if this will help. I have a YM2100 that did this exact thing. I had to remove the top plate, clean up the piston of some rust, and also the small plate with a ball and spring loaded bypass (sorry not sure what that is called) or even it's exact purpose, but after cleaning the cylinder and this pressure release or bypass device, it worked. I believe that the real cause of the issue was dirt which became lodged inside that bypass device either not allowing pressure build up or having too much pressure. The filter on my tractor was a very simple device that had deteriorated after years of service and was no longer picking up the small dirt particles. I also believe that your user is perhaps using the incorrect fluid. As Cory mentioned above that tractor originally used 303 fluid. I drained my hydraulic system fluid, rebuilt the filter, and replaced the fluid with a Hyguard all purpose Tractor fluid from Atwoods, which has worked well and has given me no further problems. Best of Luck.

 

[sandman2234]

Ford 1210 with 3 point that won't go down...

I purchased a Ford 1210 from another member of TBN, who was gifted it from a good neighbor. I bought it sight un-seen, and paid what I figured was a fair price, all things considered. THIS IS NOT A RANT ABOUT THE PREVIOUS OWNER! I expected issues, and one that I am not prepared for, is the...

www.tractorbynet.com

The above link was a learning experience for me, as the head at top of the cylinder had been removed and installed 180 degrees out which basically blocked the return line that emptied the hydraulic fluid back to the reservoir. I now know a lot more than I ever expected to know about the 3 point lift systems of a Ford 1210!
David from jax

 

[JPS3]

Ford 1210 with 3 point that won't go down...

I purchased a Ford 1210 from another member of TBN, who was gifted it from a good neighbor. I bought it sight un-seen, and paid what I figured was a fair price, all things considered. THIS IS NOT A RANT ABOUT THE PREVIOUS OWNER! I expected issues, and one that I am not prepared for, is the...

www.tractorbynet.com

The above link was a learning experience for me, as the head at top of the cylinder had been removed and installed 180 degrees out which basically blocked the return line that emptied the hydraulic fluid back to the reservoir. I now know a lot more than I ever expected to know about the 3 point lift systems of a Ford 1210!
David from jax

Thank you for the advice and I will certainly give that a try.

If it doesn't work what is the best way to access the shaft through the control block just in case it is totally seized?

I have attached a photo and circled the area that I mean

 

[JPS3]

I thought I would provide an update regarding the stuck 3 point as I managed to spend some time on it today. Additionally I hope this will help others in a similar situation

Following the diagram Steve sent me we removed the screw valve assembly to see if there was any blocked ports or contamination but all was clean and clear.

Next, tried removing the complete unit head by removing the seat base, undoing the the 4 bolts that attach the head to the PTO Box that the piston would come out with it past the gearstick. Unfortunately it came out so far and stuck. Thinking that it may be attached to a conrod and crank I re-bolted back into place but it was clear to see that there was a lot of rust around it.

The next item we decided to look at was the the up/down 3 point selector as it felt it was not fully engaging when selecting the Up position.

I removed the front plunger bolt and noticed it was covered in a milky white solution so cleaned it and refitted it. Then removed the rear plunger bolt which was covered in rust and crap.
Also blew out around the selector block in case anything was trapped in there.

Tried the 3 point selector again but it didn’t feel much better.

Whilst at this point and investigating further I removed both plunger bolts as I had only tightened them by hand

Don’t do this and make the same mistake as I did because unfortunately if you remove both plunger bolts spring selector control spring and ball bearing pushes the selector fork out of alignment and it is practically impossible to get the bolts back in.

Fortunately for me we had already decided to remove the top of the PTO box to access the piston and see how it was connected.

Once removed you could see that the piston and the conrod are 2 separate items and conrod just sits in the recess of the bottom of the piston.

The base of the piston is severely corroded. Not sure if the Piston Sleeve is screwed or press fitted or whether it should sit flush to the inner sleeve? Maybe someone here can tell us.

Regardless this also allowed full access to the Port Block and Selector Shaft for the 3 point and could be cleaned and checked thoroughly.

I have added some photos so that you an see inside.



Tried slackening off the up/down gear selector and checking for contamination and found the 1st plunger bolt and rear one was rusted and covered in crap.