Xtra lights wiring issue

[exNCite]

Receiving some conflicting advice and wonder what some other opinions are. I've mounted some additional lights from the local auto parts store as the tractor lights are blocked by the FEL. I took power off the battery into a dedicated switch and grounded the lights to the frame of the bucket. Easy disconnect and everything is mounted right on the FEL assembly.

Will this harm the diesel engine if it's not grounded directly to the battery? As the battery is grounded to the frame anyway, I can't see how this makes a difference. Simplicity says it must be grounded to the battery direct.

What's the truth here? Thanks.

 

[kwolfe]

If that is the case, I would add a quick connect to the negative and ground t to the battery. I don't see why it would hurt anything, but just in case. The extra wiring should be cheap and easy.

 

[Soundguy]

Your battery is grounded to the tractor frame... the frame is now common ground.. tap power from , preferably, the load side of your ammeter or idiot lamp scheme, and then fuse it, and then run your loads.

If you can't find where to tap power from.. locate your ignition switch.. follow the hot wire from there.. it will most likely go to a fuse or wire block.. or some other tie point directly off the battery.. perhaps a solenoid post.. etc.

Ground is ground. As long as the connection from the battery to the frame is good, and the connections fromt he sheet metal tot he frame are good.. you are good. On areas where you cannot guarantee good ground.. you can run extra ground wires.. Some people also use star washers under nuts to mount sheet metal in order to get good metal contact... as long as you have good conduction.. the electrons don't really care...

Soundguy

 

[firemanpat2910]

I agree ground is ground. You didnt mention a fuse between the battery and switch. but Im sure you put a fuse as close to the battery as possible, right?

 

[Inspector507]

Will this harm the diesel engine if it's not grounded directly to the battery?

Simple question.
Simple answer= NO

 

[Soundguy]

I agree ground is ground. You didnt mention a fuse between the battery and switch. but Im sure you put a fuse as close to the battery as possible, right?

Yeah i did.. 2nd line:

" and then fuse it"

Soundguy

 

[JoeL4330]

A recommendation to run ground wire, rather than depend on the frame ground probably has to do with the fact that some parts of the frame can sit a little "above" ground (i.e., small but noticeable resistance to ground) on an older (rustier) piece of machinery. On a car, depending on its construction, there are specific "jumpers" (usually flat "shielding") that tie together parts of the frame and skin.

I found I had to run a distinct ground to my work lights to ensure reliable operation.

And, when I put on lights like yours, I came off the switched side of the ignition and energized a relay that was close to the battery (and the lights) and fed (fused) current from the battery to the lights. Coming off the switched side of the ignition means I can't inadvertently leave them on when the tractor is "off". Using the relay with heavier gauge wire feeding the lights from the battery allows use of lighter gauge wire for the longer run from the new light switch. Using light wire from the new switch to the lights directly (without a relay) means a voltage drop to the lights ...they are dimmer (although on the plus side, the filaments will last a little longer).

 

[greg_g]

I would not trust the loader frame to provide a consistent path to ground. I'd use flexible loom, and run both the ground wire and the hot wire along one of the frame members as far as the pivot. Then cross the short distance from the loader frame, terminating the ground wire on the tractor frame

I'm curious though. If you grounded the lights to the loader frame, that suggests the lights themselves are on the loader or loader frame. Isn't that aggravating to have to lights in motion? I'd rather put them on some fixed where they'd provide a consistent lighting pattern regardless of the loader position.

//greg//

 

[Soundguy]

I was thinking he meant loader support frame.. the part stationary to the tractor.. but.. I guess that was a leap of faith.

How about it original poster.. where are the lamps.. on the fixed loader frame.. or the laoder arms?

Soundguy

 

[exNCite]

Hopefully these show how I mounted them, including switch and ground.

 

[greg_g]

Now I understand. There's no info in your profile, so I didn't understand that you were talking about a SCUT. What you've done isn't the way I would have, but in the long run - the fact that it works is all that counts.

//greg//

 

[Sully2]

Receiving some conflicting advice and wonder what some other opinions are. I've mounted some additional lights from the local auto parts store as the tractor lights are blocked by the FEL. I took power off the battery into a dedicated switch and grounded the lights to the frame of the bucket. Easy disconnect and everything is mounted right on the FEL assembly.

Will this harm the diesel engine if it's not grounded directly to the battery? As the battery is grounded to the frame anyway, I can't see how this makes a difference. Simplicity says it must be grounded to the battery direct.

What's the truth here? Thanks.

As others have said.." A ground is a ground" as long as the point of ground contact stays clean and IN contact. If grounded to the battery direct..and you lose ground...then "somethins wrong"...grounded as you have described MAY allow the ground contact point to become corroded from weather...become "loose" and not make constant good contact...etc.

As far as ruining the engine...nope..no way.

I see in your past pic what "appears" to be "slop...slack" in the wire run. Get that out of there. Rat Shack ( if no other place??) has adhesive "items" that you can stuck on and then open up to allow the wire or loom to be "held". Use some of them. A slack wire is bound to give you problems at some point.

 

[exNCite]

Good suggestions all. Thanks.