X595 No fuel

[arlen4720]

Did you close the valve to the fuel filter body, BEFORE you removed the old filter? If you did not do that, it is one of the biggest reasons for air locking these fuel systems. If you close the valve first, then do your work, there is fuel all the way up to that valve, and no air. Once your new filter is on, simply open the valve and use the manual priming pump lever on the side of the engine. This is how I do it on my X740 and I have no problems.

That's a good point about closing the valve. I always have did that, but in 8 years of ownership ( and 7 fuel filter changes), I never knew about the hand primer:mur:

Is it on the left side of the mechanical fuel pump? I see a little lever there. Maybe snap a pic of yours, if you don't mind.
Funny it doesn't mention it in the OP manual.
JDTank, after a fuel filter change, using the primer, you don't have any excessive cranking?
I learned something good today, I'm happy.

 

[ccsial]

So I came up with an idea to prime the fuel system, pressurizing the fuel tank to push fuel through the filter bowl, fuel lines, etc. I removed the fuel cap and set a funnel down on the fill hole, then I took a air gun and wrapped electrical tape on the end so it would fit tight in the bottom of the funnel. (Note the fuel return line has to be removed for this to work) I removed the fuel return line where it goes back into the tank only because I had the rear fender off already, otherwise you could just pull it off from the filter housing. Blow compressed air in the fuel tank and it fills up the fuel bowl and purges the air out of the lines. I cracked the injectors after I did this to get the last of the air out, tightened them up, turned the key and it fired right up.
Im sure there are better ways to prime the fuel system but this is one method and it does work.

We think alike. I start my 1910 that way after filter change. I set my regulator to about 10 PSI. Works very well and not near as messy as opening the bleed valve. I don't remove the return line either.

My 748 does start without bleeding, but runs rough for a bit as mentioned above.

 

[JDTank]

That's a good point about closing the valve. I always have did that, but in 8 years of ownership ( and 7 fuel filter changes), I never knew about the hand primer:mur:

Is it on the left side of the mechanical fuel pump? I see a little lever there. Maybe snap a pic of yours, if you don't mind.
Funny it doesn't mention it in the OP manual.
JDTank, after a fuel filter change, using the primer, you don't have any excessive cranking?
I learned something good today, I'm happy.

On the left side of your engine, you will see a small square box that the fuel line runs into, and then out of. It has a very small lever on it. Once I install the new fuel filter and tighten up the bowl assembly, I open the fuel shut off valve and start pumping. Watch the fuel bowl and you will see it filling with fuel with every pump you make. I fill the bowl completely, and then make about 20 additional pumps. I find with this procedure my machine only dies one time. Usually the second time it will take off, run rough for a few seconds then smooth out. This is normal for diesels, they are always hard to get started after changing fuel filters out.

Using this method completely eliminates the need of trying to fill the fuel bowl with a can of fuel, which would obviously be messy. It is also very hard on your starter and battery to fill the fuel bowl via cranking the engine for a long time.

Like I say, this is the method I use and never have any problems. It's the entire reason that John Deere put that mechanical fuel primer there to begin with. See in the photo I posted, just above the oil filter. That square box has the priming lever on the side of it.