Workbench top

   / Workbench top #1  

ace10

Silver Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2010
Messages
216
Location
Rural NoVA
I'm seeking input on what might be my best option for topping a workbench.

I built the base about a year ago, and it's just sitting there waiting for me to get around finishing it off by putting a top on it. Dimensions were dictated by the poles, so it's 105" X 34." Legs are all 4X6. "Joists" are 2X8 and 2X6. The 2X6 on the top front is flush and will have a smallish vice mounted on the outrigger.

This is in my machine shed. It's not insulated. It's gets very hot and very cold. I'm not expecting to do any significant work on this surface. No metal work at this time. Maybe some mechanical stuff... tinkering. I have other space for woodworking, heavy repairs, etc.

I had considered a few options including 3/4" ply or maybe some cement board over ply.

If I do my storage areas correctly, I can keep this bench from becoming a large shelf.

Trying to keep costs down. I just spent a bunch of money running a new electrical service to this building.

139759729_photobucket_44934_.jpg
 
   / Workbench top #2  
Looks near identical to one I just built. I topped it with 'Structafloor'. Thats a brand name for the chipboard stuff thats used for flooring over here. Its cheap and strong and comes in large sheets. (up to 900 x 3600mm). Comes in about 3 thickness I think - 17,19 and 22mm. All hardware stores have it.

One thing I did thats proved very handy was to put an overhang of about 6 cm all around. I have a 4" metal vice that clamps to the bench. The overhang lets me move the vice around the bench to whatever position is best for the job. Its surprising how often I move the vice.
 
   / Workbench top #3  
I used a solid core door for my top. My son is in HVAC so I had him bend up a 4x8 sheet of the metal they use for duct. He put a bend on the front and a back splash on the back. I slid it over my top. I can replace it if it gets messed up very easy. It has worked great for a year so far.
 
   / Workbench top #4  
It's all in what you plan on doing on it. My bench is similar although 15 feet long. I have my vise, two bench grinders, drill press, jigsaw table, welding and cutting supplies, etc..
I paint on it, work on greasy parts, clean parts, assemble parts, hammer on parts, paint parts etc..

Painted half inch CDX plywood works good enough for me.
 
   / Workbench top #5  
What I have done is using 2x6 or 2x8 and install it so there is 1 -1/2" over-hang on at least two sides...then complete the decking with 2x and cover with with plywood...

The 1-1/2 overhang gives you a "clamping edge"...
 
   / Workbench top #6  
Glue 2 thicknesses of 3/4" plywood together and screw it down, then go to Lowe's or HD and get a sheet of 1/4" hardboard and screw it to the plywood. It makes a nice smooth surface to work on. After you wear out the hardboard in a couple of years, you just unscrew it and replace it. It's cheap durable and smooth.
 
   / Workbench top #7  
I agree that it depends on what you plan to use it for. Wood is not too good for putting a metal chop saw on (don't ask) but for about everything else it works well. I prefer 2x12, 2x10 if I can find them not too warped. Screw them to your pedestal, no nails because nails work loose. Countersink them so you can use a sander on the top when it gets pitted or even greasy to a point. I sand mine with rough grit when new to make the edges of the 2x s match up. Use an overhang as mentioned by another poster so you aren't hitting your knees on the legs of the bench. An end overhang is just right to bolt on a vise. the 2x s not only make a solid surface, they also do a great job of making the entire pedestal that much more sturdy.
 
   / Workbench top #8  
go 2x6 at least sow you can pound on things, if you plan on putting a bench grinder on it line it with steel so the wood will not catch on fire, remmember oil soaked wood leads to a burnt down shop. a junk yard will have old fridges out of stores that are 5 x10 feet these are excellent
 
   / Workbench top #9  
My workbench is 40" x 15' with the top frame made of 2"x12" plus an extra 2"x12" running long ways down the center. I have 2 layers of 3/4" plywood screwed on for the top. I used clear polyurethane to paint the top.
 
   / Workbench top #11  
When I built my bench I had some 2x12 bullnosed stair treads that were never going to to be used so that is what I used. You could park a battleship on it and there is no problem with putting something in the vise and grabbing a 24 inch Crescent wrench or pipe wrench and applying all the torque you want. It aint going anywhere! I hate a wimpy bench that you are afraid of hurting.
 
   / Workbench top #12  
I used 2x6's on a bench just like that and have been happy with it.
 
   / Workbench top #13  
The benches in my area seem to be a variation of 2x4 or 2x6 layed face to face and drilled for all-thread rod about every 12" to draw the 2x material together... kind of like butcher block.

On my assembly bench I have the plywood covered with brown Masonite hardboard... works great with the idea it is easy to replace... in 20 years... it is still has not been changed.
 
   / Workbench top #14  
On a related subject, I am looking to do an outfeed table for my table saw. I am considering using melanie coated MDF--slick and flat. Anyone have any experience?
 
   / Workbench top #15  
My workbench is planked then 1/8" sheet steel screwed to that. Durable and easy to clean. I clean it with a light spray lube so that the slight film left behind keeps it from rusting.
I would like a little more overhang. Next time.
 
   / Workbench top #16  
Glue 2 thicknesses of 3/4" plywood together and screw it down, then go to Lowe's or HD and get a sheet of 1/4" hardboard and screw it to the plywood. It makes a nice smooth surface to work on. After you wear out the hardboard in a couple of years, you just unscrew it and replace it. It's cheap durable and smooth.
I used the same ingredients but laminated three layers of 3/4" plywood because I wanted an open underneath clear space so I could move a stool around and sit where ever. The workbench is 2'x16'x38" high and 2-1/4" thick and supported by two 18"x47" Sears black metal two drawers and lower shelf pedestals. I wrapped the exposed edges with clear SPF then screwed on the disposable 1/4" Masonite work top. Both the drill press and vice are mounted on two layers of 3/4" laminated plywood that can be moved about and clamped in place.
 

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   / Workbench top #17  
The benches in my area seem to be a variation of 2x4 or 2x6 layed face to face and drilled for all-thread rod about every 12" to draw the 2x material together... kind of like butcher block.

I did not know that workbench tops were a regional thing...:thumbsup:
 
   / Workbench top #18  
My work bench top is beat up pretty bad, but I use a softer board that way things won't slip.

I don't baby it as you can see, and its lag screwed into the studs, predrilled and long lag screws into 2x6''s.

I know I can put a piece of pipe in the vise attached to it and get a large pipe wrench with a persuader on the end of it and the work bench will hang in there.

I have bent some steel in the vise, it will take a lot.
heres a picture of it.

16sheet.jpg


Rob
 
   / Workbench top #19  
I guess I could show you this.

CHEVELLE

Rob
 
   / Workbench top #20  
I did not know that workbench tops were a regional thing...:thumbsup:

I was 10 when the newly Retired Navy Commander moved into the area in a home he had bought years ago for retirement... the first thing he did was build a proper work bench.

The neighbors thought it was a neat solid design and many copied it...

The bench and house are now mine... bought the home several years ago and the bench is still rock solid... the home being of 1956 vintage not so much so.
 

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