Work lights

   / Work lights #1  

Speedex

Bronze Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
80
Location
Jackson Center
Tractor
L3200
I recently purchased a new l3200 with the bh77 backhoe. I already ran into not having enough lights on several occasions. I managed to find these 18w led cube lights on Amazon for $10 each. Super easy to mount to the roll bar. Just wanted to share incase anyone else is looking for a set of lights. I got 4 of them and using just a square u bolt on the roll bar the mount is done. The only thing that may change is to switch out to a heavier plate than what originally came with the u bolt. Wicked racing sells them on Amazon
 

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   / Work lights #2  
Hard to beat LED's mounted fore and aft on your ROPS!
 
   / Work lights
  • Thread Starter
#3  
   / Work lights #4  
I swapped out my good halogen work lights to similar LEDs from Amazon. I put 2 forward and 1 reverse, and used the last light to make a portable version mounted to a welding magnet that I can plug into any of my lawn mowers, BCS 2 wheel tractor, or DX55 as needed. That portable light has gotten the most use so far.
I read the reviews and the biggest complaint with any of the less expensive LEDs are that they are not sealed and will get water damage. I sealed mine around the lens and the cord using a small tube of clear RTV sealant.
Overall I think the quality of the light pattern was better with the Hobbs halogens, but the LEDs are brighter. And the LEDs draw much less allowing me to add the 3rd light, and even the portable, without adding a circuit.
I'm sure you'll love the extra light like I do.
 
   / Work lights
  • Thread Starter
#5  
The portable light is a great idea. I may use the factory work light wiring for that and solder on an rc battery connector and attach a long cord to the portable so I can store it when I'm not using it.
 
   / Work lights #6  
The portable light is a great idea. I may use the factory work light wiring for that and solder on an rc battery connector and attach a long cord to the portable so I can store it when I'm not using it.
I have the 2 wire connector pigtails attached to everything and use those to connect my batteryminder and tank sprayer as needed. So that's what I used on the light too.
 
   / Work lights #7  
]For the cost, you can't beat LED lights, can you? I am now running 6 total, for a combined 144 watts- or just 10 amps when the alternator is busy charging at 14.4 volts. I started with two fender mounted 55 w halogens years ago, and the LEDs provide soooo much more light. Mine are cheap lights, but so far, no moisture issues. Sealing them might make sense.

P1010878.jpg
 

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   / Work lights #8  
Varmint I have just ONE LED light on my ROPS and it's significant. It's the round Kawell (27 Watt 60-degree flood) as in your pic. I started with just one to see if more were necessary, and my conclusion was that it was super bright. I never could have imagined it. I would say this one LED light is 10x brighter than my tractor's headlights (plus it's not blocked by the FEL bucket).

What I'm saying is those 6 lights you have there are probably pretty bright. Nice brackets!
 
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   / Work lights #9  
no doubt you thought of it or done it already, but you may want to secure the wires to the ROPS with wire ties.
 
   / Work lights #11  
I did the Drill, baby DRILL method (hole in the ROPS). :shocked:
 
   / Work lights
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I'm considering drilling a small hole to run the wires to keep them out of harms way. A 1/4" hole in 3" wide tubing shouldn't hinder the ability of the rops.
 
   / Work lights
  • Thread Starter
#14  
I'm guessing these are made overseas
 

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   / Work lights #15  
Anyone with a cab model (I have a B2650 cab version) mount LED lights, and where on the cab?
 
   / Work lights #16  
Seems like I have seen photos of aftermarket LED lights mounted just below the top of the cab (always a good idea) using factory mounting points, maybe with DIY brackets. Just make them stiff enough that you don't get harmonic vibrations from the running tractor.
FWIW, I mounted my wire looms to the ROPS by drilling (yes!) 3/16" holes, and tapping for #10-32 machine screws, then using cable clamps. I think small holes are less of a concern than larger ones. Plus, I wouldn't want water to get inside the ROPS. The brackets are some 11/2" x 1/4" alum. angle I had... easy to work, and stiff.
 
   / Work lights #17  
I mounted my wire looms to the ROPS by drilling (yes!) 3/16" holes, and tapping for #10-32 machine screws, then using cable clamps. I think small holes are less of a concern than larger ones. Plus, I wouldn't want water to get inside the ROPS.

Agreed. I used black tape to hold my wire for now. I think I'll drill & tap, with zipties with mounting hole! Thanks for the mention of tapping, that's clean. Theres other ways too, the Ziptie saddle mount (for .25" wire bundle). I've used the adhesive mounts, sometimes they just come off, I don't think they are for outdoor use and they only stick to the materials they LIKE (for long periods). I guess a guy could JBweld nuts onto the ROPS (no drill).

If little holes in the ROPS increase danger, then could weld up all the un-used (large) holes in the tractor main frame to increase safety. It could be like cap & trade. You get to drill 5 little holes in the ROPS if you weld up one big hole in the frame. Sorry, Hogwash alert. :D Your tractor should work for you, not you for it. Except where you ENJOY working for it. Or being a rebel. Man that's some stick-it-to-the-man! :laughing:

If you want lights, the ROPS is the OBVIOUS location, so drill some little holes (IMHO). And when people say "aren't you worried about the ROPS? Say "YES I am, if the tractor tips over I hope to keep inside the safety zone". And you can add "honestly I'm more worried about reversing over an embankment so I added better lights".
 
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   / Work lights #19  
Sodo, I too tried the adhesive mounted cable clamps, and they.... fell off. I am too cheap to buy the aerotech type mounts that 4shorts and some others rave about. 3/16" holes don't count in my book.
 

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