Work lights on my Max 22

[Shift4200]

I took a 1 1/2 x 4" piece of metal and drilled a hole for the light, attached the wire and used a tec screw to ground it and mounted the light right around the bracket for the turn signal. I'll take a picture of it this evening if you like. It took me all of ten minutes to wire and mount the light since the wire already had a male barbed end on it. I didn't cut any wires, I just tied them up tight with a zip tie.

Just re-read this... so this hot wire you're talking about is unused? Ready to accept a connector?

 

[kootch88]

I was looking at Dave's photo. There is a hole I used right below the light on the red bracket, so there was no drilling in the factory metal just as an FYI.

 

[kootch88]

Yes., it is ready to be connected.

 

[Shift4200]

I see the hole you're referring to now. I had looked quickly last night to see if there was any available holes for mounting. It was cold, and i was tired, so i missed it. These look like they might be great spots to mount some forward facing lights as well. Maybe run all 3/4 off that same hot wire... I'll have to take a closer look at them when i have some time in the daylight.

Where did you mount the switch for your lighting? Or did you even use one?

-J

 

[kootch88]

The lights in front were mounted to the bracket because I have a soft cab and if I had put the lights behind my eye level I wouldn't be able to see due to the reflection ( i tried it), so I mounted them with my home made bracket. The lights in the back give me more than enough visibility. They were a cheap set of small fog lights from Wally World. I think I paid 15 bucks for them and threw the switch out. I think I will change them out for some LED's like I have on the front since they draw so little power and are very bright. In the Summer, when I use the tractor during the day I unplug the rear lights, but all my snow clearing is at night in the winter so I keep it plugged in.

 

[kootch88]

Rear lights, no switch, front lights no switch either. I tapped into the headlights for the fronmt because the LED lights draw so little power and I didn't want another switch cluttering my dash. For the front I did have to drill a very small hole in the gray plastic beside the headlights on the laft side. It is all very tidy. Of course I also sheathed all my wires so there is no chafing.

 

[kootch88]

Just a Heads up, the LED lights I bought were 18 bucks a year ago on EBAY, from China. Now a set is about $32 delivered. I think they draw 9 watts. Here are the same lights at $43, but if you look around on ebay and Amazon you can find them cheaper.

2X 18W 6LED Modular Heavy Duty Flood Beam Work Lamp Light for Truck 12V 4WD 4x4 | eBay

 

[Shift4200]

Thanks for the link. I'm going to hold off on buying until i can see how much clearance I will have for wherever i decide to mount. I dont want to block the flashers if i can help it.

Those lights look like a solid deal... 40$ well spent. I imagine I'll be very similar to you in the fact that my snow removal will primarily be in the dark so spending a few bucks isnt an issue. I'm temped to pop on the Rigid LED floods/Spots that Dave posted. A little pricey, but a good looking light. I'm still in the design phase of this project, and when i get home from work i'll put some QT in with the laptop looking at different lights.

K88, chatting with you has helped pass a good chunk of my work day. Much appreciated. Did you guys get any snow from yesterdays storm?

-J

 

[DavesTractor]

I have sent DavesTractor a PM about this, but figured it a good time to drop my first post.

I'm drooling over those ROPS light brackets Dave has pictured. I did just fine with the lighting that comes stock on my Max, but i can see where more would be beneficial... especially out the back. I'm not much for fabrication or welding... so making something like this myself just isn't an option right now. Wondered if anyone knows where i can score a pair of these beauties.

Dave, in the pic you posted showing the difference in lighting (stock vs w the rigid lights). Am i correct in thinking you have 2 spots pointing forward, and one flood pointing back... or is it 2x2? Those images show quite a difference.

Lastly, anyone ever try magnetic lighting up on the ROPS? I know they make some with beastly magnets, but wonder how they'd fair with the vibration.

Thanks in advance guys....

-J

We burn the brackets on our plasma table as needed. We include them at no charge when you buy at least a pair of Rigid lights at normal price. In the pictures we showed, we had two Rigid Dually Floods going forward and a pair of Diffused going back. Each pair on it's own switch. The only problem with Rigid lights is the initial purchase, they are expensive. They do not try to compete with the Chinese import stuff. It may be that some of the import stuff is great, I really do not know...we just started with Rigid and like them. But I think they are sort of like the Snap-On of lights. We have never had even one problem with them. I have them on about everything I own.

You could just buy brackets and spend less on lights for sure. Even if they work only half as well, it will still be a lot of light. I'll email you some pricing since my goal on TBN is to be helpful and to learn from others, not to sell stuff. It's best we do not do any pricing on the forum I think.

Thanks for the kind words on our brackets. My son is handy with the plasma table, he designs and builds this stuff.

 

[Shift4200]

We burn the brackets on our plasma table as needed. We include them at no charge when you buy at least a pair of Rigid lights at normal price. In the pictures we showed, we had two Rigid Dually Floods going forward and a pair of Diffused going back. Each pair on it's own switch. The only problem with Rigid lights is the initial purchase, they are expensive. They do not try to compete with the Chinese import stuff. It may be that some of the import stuff is great, I really do not know...we just started with Rigid and like them. But I think they are sort of like the Snap-On of lights. We have never had even one problem with them. I have them on about everything I own.

You could just buy brackets and spend less on lights for sure. Even if they work only half as well, it will still be a lot of light. I'll email you some pricing since my goal on TBN is to be helpful and to learn from others, not to sell stuff. It's best we do not do any pricing on the forum I think.

Thanks for the kind words on our brackets. My son is handy with the plasma table, he designs and builds this stuff.

Dave,

Appreciate the reply and I completely understand wanting to keep pricing off of the forum. I look forward to your email.

Like you described, the Rigid lights look to be a bit of overkill for how i'll use them. Then again I plan to have this tractor for a good long time.... so any mods i make I hope to match the quality of the tractor. I plan on doing more homework before buying, but as of now the Rigids are top on the list.

Thanks so much for feedback guys. Looks like I've found a new home for talking "shop".

-J

 

[kootch88]

Those Rigid lights look really nice. They heat sincs are huge. I thought the ones on mine were overkill.

 

[Shift4200]

Those Rigid lights look really nice. They heat sincs are huge. I thought the ones on mine were overkill.

Ha, i thought the same thing. Super nice lights, just not sure i want to spend that much money just yet.

I def want to go LED to keep my draw down. Not having to upgrade any electrical is key.

A big thanks to Dave and his son Lee for getting the ball rolling on those brackets for me. I cant wait to get my hands on them.

-J

 

[kootch88]

Here are some pics of my light set up. The first is where I ran the wires to the main light harness. The second is just the back of the front lights. #3 is the back of the light bracket I made 4 is facing the rear of the tractor and the last is where the wiring is already existing below and behind the seat on top of the PTO.

 

[arrow]

Ha, i thought the same thing. Super nice lights, just not sure i want to spend that much money just yet.

I def want to go LED to keep my draw down. Not having to upgrade any electrical is key.

A big thanks to Dave and his son Lee for getting the ball rolling on those brackets for me. I cant wait to get my hands on them.

-J

My daughter lives in West Greenwich just off 102. You probably got yours from Dubays as I did mine. Unfortunately,.I did put a work light on the rear but only after I changed out the bulb to a 35 watter instead of the 55 ( halogen) that was in there. Wire coming out the rear was only 3 amps. Enough for an L.E.D. but not a halogen. Just couldn't fathom spending a hundred bucks for a rear work light,

 

[Shift4200]

Good Morning!

K88, Thanks for the pics. That front light bar looks like a beast, and well put together. The wire thru the side of the engine case looks alot cleaner than i had expected. The only concern i have with your rear facing set up is the lights look to be a little exposed. I work in alot of tight brush and woods, I'd fear something catching on it and removing it for me. W that said, i'm still leaning toward picking up a set of the brackets from Dave... just not sure the wife loves the idea of 400$ for work lights... so i'll likely just snag the brackets for now, and figure out which lights once I get them.

Arrow, I live off of 102 as well, in the area of Plain Meeting House and Sharpe. I did buy my max from Dale at Dubay.... my family has been doing business with Dubay for as long as i can remember. There's something super comforting about that. I'd not seen Dale since i was probably 12, but when i spelled my last name.. he quickly spouted off my old home address, and even remembered what 3 tractors we had back then (wheel horses, they dont make little tractors like they used to). Good people over there, only complaint is sometimes they just seem to busy... guess from their angle, that's a good problem to have. Where about in foster are you? Are you in the woods or over near the ol' Yum Yum?

I've definitely decided that LED is the way to go for me. The more I think about it the more i'm thinking i'm going to run my hot directly from the battery. I've always taken this route with anything I've put on my jeep or other vehicles. However, Lee at Dave's tractor had a solid suggestion of running power off of the starter lead. When I asked him why his answer made perfect sense. That wire comes from the battery anyway, and it's less wire to run/route. I'll be putting 4 lights on the fenders, and not being an electrician, I'm not sure a 3a wire would be enough for all 4 lights. Does anyone know how to do that math?

-J

 

[kootch88]

Th rear lights are on a swivel so if they get bumped they do bend inwards. That was a concern, but thus far has not been an issue.I sealed the hole inside the engine compartment with a dab of hot glue for the front lights. No real reason since it is sheathed, but I wanted it neat.

 

[Shift4200]

Never even considered a "break away" design for those rear lights. Good thinking.

The front bar does look really clean. I only wish I had the tools and the know-how to crank out something like that for myself. I worked in a custom car shop for several years a while back, so i'm very comfortable with wiring and installation.... but my fabrication skills are non-existent. Maybe some day when life slows down a touch...and i need another expensive hobby.

K88 I wanted to ask you a little more about the lights you bought. What's your opinion on them? Is it worth spending double to go to a name brand?

 

[arrow]

Good Morning!
Are you in the woods or over near the ol' Yum , I'm not sure a 3a wire would be enough for all 4 lights. Does anyone know how to do that math?

-J

Well I know a 3 amp wire can support 35 watts. L.e.d. outputs are miniscule in comparison to a halogen so just add up the outputs of all the lights you want. If you are coming from the starter circuit wire wise, you'll have no problem. The 3 amp wire is what Mahindra gives you coming off the back of a 3016. Mine is a 2012 so they may have increased the circuitry capacity in 2013. I am right on 102 further north of you near the old Barney Bennet gas station. Amps = Watts/Volts 55/12= 4.583333 for a 55 watt 12 volt halogen. As you can see, is why I had to get down to a 35 watt halogen bulb for my application.

 

[Shift4200]

Well I know a 3 amp wire can support 35 watts. L.e.d. outputs are miniscule in comparison to a halogen so just add up the outputs of all the lights you want. If you are coming from the starter circuit wire wise, you'll have no problem. The 3 amp wire is what Mahindra gives you coming off the back of a 3016. Mine is a 2012 so they may have increased the circuitry capacity in 2013. I am right on 102 further north of you near the old Barney Bennet gas station. Amps = Watts/Volts 55/12= 4.583333 for a 55 watt 12 volt halogen. As you can see, is why I had to get down to a 35 watt halogen bulb for my application.

Ahh yes, up near Highland Gun club. I go up that way from time to time to shoot trap, although my main club is on Sharpe st... so it's pretty infrequent. I grew up just over the hill from Summit General... on the old train tracks. In fact our house was orignally a dry goods store back when the railroad was active. That whole area is a hidden gem in RI. I met a guy way back thru my uncle that lives/lived over near you. He had an old garage right up on 102. I was young, but I clearly remember him showing me a few old mustangs he had hidden in that barn. To this day i still wonder if they're there.

Looking at your math, I'm thinking of going with 18w lights. That would mean for all 4 i'm going to be running to the starter or battery. Not a big deal, but i will say it'd have been nice to have the power to the lights cut when i turned off the key.

-J