woos splitter wedge question

[muddstopper]

I am in the process of building a splitter with a moveable wedge. The blade is 24in tall in the full up position. I intend to put the 4way where it will be below the hbeam flange when all the way down, but will be 12 in high when fully up position. This way, I can split small rounds in half, or 24in round into 4 pieces. My question is how wide should I make the 4way. I had intended to make it a full 24inches wide, tip to tip, but now that I have everything half way together, I am thinking that wide a wedge might create a hazard just walking around it. I am toying with the ideal of 8inches wide on each side and possibly just 6 inches. I even thought of just going ahead and making it 12inches each side and then just trimming until I get to the lenght I will be comfortable with, but feel that will just be a waste of steel, not to mention all that grinding to sharpen the blade. I appreciate any suggestion or opinions. I promise pics when I am done with the build.

 

[KYErik]

Northern tool has some 4 way wedges that you could look at for ideas.

IMHO- If your moving wedge is 24 inches tall, then your slider should probably be at least 16 inches long or else you might bend the web of the H beam (a tall moving wedge has the potential to put a lot of stress on the slider and web).

 

[glastron23]

The processor we made has a 16 inch cross blade, (we removed the 6 way blade, never used it and it was in the way all the time) we are not working around it so it isn't a problem. If you are working near it you may want it a little smaller Just remember to weld it behind the main splitter blade, this will allow the wood to start breaking before you split it the second time, this requires less power to break it. Jim

 

[muddstopper]

Northern tool has some 4 way wedges that you could look at for ideas.

IMHO- If your moving wedge is 24 inches tall, then your slider should probably be at least 16 inches long or else you might bend the web of the H beam (a tall moving wedge has the potential to put a lot of stress on the slider and web).

Here are a few pics of my project. The wedge and back bone are 3/4X9in T1. The hbeam is 6x6x1/2. I have reenforced the web by adding some of the 3/4 t1 to each side. The top flange has also been reenforced using 1/2in plate. The slide is all 1inch plate. The lift clyinder is 2 1/2bore x 6in stroke. The lift arm has a sealed roller bearing that contacts the blade so it just rolls across the bottom of the blade as it raises and lowers. I am planning adding some 6inch channle on each side of the hbeam where the blade slide up and down. I think the channel along with the 1 1/2 inches of extra webbing I have already added, should help prevent most of the hbeam flexing.

The trailer is a old boat trailer I cut to lenght. I put the tounge on the opposite end of the splitter wedge so I could just pull the splitter up when the wood gets piled up while being split. If you look close on the tounge portion of the trailer you will see a front hub off a junkyard front wheel drive car. The hub actually unbolts from the car spindle and I am just going to bolt it on the 6in channel under the hbeam. I intend to bulid a small hoist to mount on the hub to make it easier to lift those extra large rounds onto the splitter.


The cylinder is a 4x4 chief from nothern hydraulics, I bought this cylinder probably 20 years ago to build a splitter with and am just now getting around to it. It will be powered by a 25hp kholer I already had laying around and a 11gpm vickers vane pump. Motor is overkill, but later on as funds permit, I will be replaceing the pump with a 28gpm 2stage and a 5inch cylinder. I also have a knuckle boom loader onthe drawing board so the power will come in handy later on.

 

[muddstopper]

The processor we made has a 16 inch cross blade, (we removed the 6 way blade, never used it and it was in the way all the time) we are not working around it so it isn't a problem. If you are working near it you may want it a little smaller Just remember to weld it behind the main splitter blade, this will allow the wood to start breaking before you split it the second time, this requires less power to break it. Jim

You mentioned welding the 4way wedges behind the cutting edge of the main wedge. My blade is 9 inches wide and the cutting edge is 2 inches where it has been ground sharp. How far back do you suggest mounting the 4way behind the cutting edge? I was thinking 3inches which would still give me a full 6 inches of wedge width on the 4way.

 

[KYErik]

Looks good! I think it will work well.

I misunderstood your first post, I thought that you were placing the tall wedge on the end of the cylinder so that the wedge would slide along the beam.

 

[muddstopper]

Thanks, for the comments. I have to make a run to the scrap yard today to find some tube for my boom and a little angle to mount the engine, oil tank and battery with. So far, I have about $200 out of pocket in this build.Of course, I already had the engine, pump, and cylinder, which I salvaged off of other equipment I no loner was useing. I would hate to add up the cost If I had to buy everything new. What Has been my major cost has been consumeables, Welding rods, Oxy/Acy, grinding disc, ext.

 

[jgrieve]

I would think that as soon as the vertical wedge cracks the log the horizontal wedge should start. Seems to me the vertical wedge should be skinny and the horizontal fat to achieve your purpose.Im thinking the bottom side of the horizontal should be flat parallel to the splitter I beam or things would jam up. Note on iron cutting shears the blade always is at an angle so it starts to shear at one end and continues to shear the rest like a sissors. if the cutting edge was flat it would take tons and tons of force and would make a big boom.

 

[jgrieve]

when I built a splitter I left a flat spot on the front of the wedge laid a bead of hard surface welding rod then ground it to a sharp edge. Stays sharp.

 

[muddstopper]

when I built a splitter I left a flat spot on the front of the wedge laid a bead of hard surface welding rod then ground it to a sharp edge. Stays sharp.

My wedge is t1 steel. Its pretty hard already and wont dull easily. My biggest concern is the t1 steel is so hard it might break before it bends. I have some hardsurface rods I will use on the edge if it starts to show wear.