Woody plant control

[TheMan419]

We have a non irrigation ditch on our property. I壇 like to control weeds and woody growth on it. Of course I want to leave grass for both looks and erosion control.

It looks like Triclopyr is an option. Is this correct? Also what other options are there?

Currently it is a woody bramble mess. I would like to spray it in the spring. Depending on need then plant grass seed to help the grasses take over.

What other things do I need to plan for?

I have a 3 point sprayer so application is not an issue. Since this is a non commercial application it appears indiana does not require me to have a license.

Thanks for any other ideas!

 

[kenmac]

I bought Remedy from the co-op that is suppose to Kill /control woody plants. I haven't used it yet so I can't speak to it's effectiveness in killing them

 

[ericm979]

Triclopyr does well if you spray it right and on the right plants. It only really works if you spray while plants are actively growing. The faster they're growing the better it works. It does not penetrate well on many plants with waxy leaves. For an herbicide it's relatively non toxic and breaks down in the soil faster than many. Unfortunately the best time to spray would be after you should already have the grass seed in and growing. But you could sow the seed earlier, let it grow under the woody stuff, then after the triclopyr knocks back the woody stuff the grass will be released. It takes about 3-4 weeks for Triclopyr to kill plants. If the growing season is short that may eat up a lot of it. Here all the rain falls in the winter and spring, so the grass stops growing in the summer and turns brown.

If you can get to it with a mechanical means like a brush cutter or mower of some sort, that can also reduce woody plants and favor grass if you mow at the right times. You knock back the woody plants in the spring and allow the faster growing grasses to get above and shade them. It's not as effective and it's more work but you're not spraying poison on your land.

 

[jeff9366]

I bought Remedy from the co-op that is suppose to Kill /control woody plants. I haven't used it yet so I can't speak to it's effectiveness in killing them

Remedy is 100% Triclopyr.

We have a non irrigation ditch on our property. Currently it is a woody bramble mess. I'd like to control weeds and woody growth on it. I want to leave grass for both looks and erosion control.

I would like to spray in the spring, then plant grass seed to help the grasses take over.

I suggest Agri Star "Crossroad" herbicide from Rural King or Crossbow herbicide. Both have identical formula:

Triclopyr BEE---------16.5%

2,4-D -----------------34.4%

Inert Ingredients-----49.1%





Also good, Gordon's Brush Killer, from Tractor Supply Company:

GORDON'S BRUSH KILLER
One Gallon - Makes up to 64 gallons of spray solution.

I use 3 ounces per gallon of water = 42.6 gallons of spray solution.

Triclopyr~~~~7.81%

2,4-D~~~~~16.49%

Dicamba ~~~1.38%

Inert~~~~~73.2%

One gallon concentrate $49.99.

Formula for Gordon's Brush Killer changes from time to time.


All three brands are most effective when target weed material is actively growing. It takes ~~~three weeks~~~ for kill to be apparent.

If you mix and apply according to directions (no stronger) you should not need to seed additional grass.

After use, bathe and change clothes. Do not work in same clothes after spraying. Potent stuff.

 

[kenmac]

Remedy is 100% Triclopyr.







I suggest Agri Star "Crossroad" herbicide from Rural King or Crossbow herbicide. Both have identical formula:

Triclopyr BEE---------16.5%

2,4-D -----------------34.4%

Inert Ingredients-----49.1%





Also good, Gordon's Brush Killer, from Tractor Supply Company:

GORDON'S BRUSH KILLER
One Gallon - Makes up to 64 gallons of spray solution.

I use 3 ounces per gallon of water = 42.6 gallons of spray solution.

Triclopyr~~~~7.81%

2,4-D~~~~~16.49%

Dicamba ~~~1.38%

Inert~~~~~73.2%

One gallon concentrate $49.99.

Formula for Gordon's Brush Killer changes from time to time.


All three brands are most effective when target weed material is actively growing.

Good to know, I bought it last week and haven't read what it actually is.
Wonder if it comes under a different name cheaper ? I believe I paid a little over $100.00 for Redemy

 

[jeff9366]

Possibly, but not that I know of.

100% Triclopyr can be difficult to dilute in some water. Read the dilution directions carefully.



In my opinion all of this stuff contributes to cancer potential in general and blood cancer potential (leukemia) especially, IF NOT USED CAREFULLY.

After use, bathe and change clothes. Do not work in same clothes after spraying. Dangerous stuff.



I would not use Remedy as a general purpose herbicide. I would only resort to Remedy if less potent herbicides applied according to directions failed.

 

[kenmac]

well, cancer is probably going to get the majority of us in one way or the other anyway.
so I really don't worry about it too much

 

[kenmac]

OK. But sustaining you in recurring chemo cancer treatment will probably destroy the finances of your entire family.

well, do you happen to know what the food (that you eat) is sprayed with that comes from all over the world ?
Probably worse than anything we spray with here

Probably won't hurt their finances too bad. They have plenty of money. My yearly out of pocket for health care is 7k

 

[Wagtail]

I use a crystallised herbicide called "Metsulfuron 600" by a company called 'Titan AG'. The active ingredient listed is 600 g/kg metsulfuron methyl.

I use it at 10g/100ltr concentration [1.5g/15ltr backpack sprayer] to kill bracken, a woody weed that I'm sure that you have in NA... the bloody stuff is ubiquitous.

The product was recommended by an agricultural store and I've used it. It works as advertised. There's a thick booklet that comes with it with mixing amounts to water pertaining to different plants (including the Latin name) plus recommendations on when to apply.

 

[TheMan419]

Thanks Jeff! I had not seen Gordon痴 brush killer at tsc. I値l give it a look.

As for safety I always change after spraying chemicals. I am trying to move away from as many as I can. However this is the ditch bank and I cannot get the brush hog over it.

I just do not want to completely denude it of plant material like round up would. I壇 like to keep the grass for looks and erosion control.

I will start with Gordons and move to a higher concentration if that does not work.

Things will start growing in earnest here in about 45 days or so.

 

[RalphVa]

I'm an EMG volunteer at the extension office. Been doing it since 2004. Be REALLY careful when spraying stuff with 2,4-D in it because it's very volatile. You spray with the tiniest wind, and it can carry it miles or just a few yards away to stuff you don't want killed.

The best stuff for woody and even waxy leaved stuff is the special poison ivy killer by Roundup. It is mostly glyphosate but with a tiny bit of TriChlor on it. It is very safe, particularly if you paint it on stumps with one of these daubers: Buckthorn Blaster™ with 2 Applicator Tips & Applicator Tip Removal Tool | Landscape Shopping Cart. Glyphosate in Roundup is about the safest herbicide because excesses are chemically complexed in clay soil. So, excess won't go into the water. Of course, with the dauber, you likely never have any excess. (In spring, the daubing does not work because the plants are putting flow OUT and won't absorb the glyphosate.)

Like someone else pointed out, TriChlor seems barely soluble. I got some at Lowes one day when they were out of glyphosate/Roundup stuff. Added it to the Roundup. Keeps coming out of solution even after heating.

If you cannot daub and can only mass cut with a bush hog. Wait and go back when little bits of greenery spring from the stumps. Just spray those little bits of greenery with hand sprayer or squirter. Won't spread that way and won't have very much excess. Some people use goats or big flails to get rid of massive growth. Doing this after is the only way to get rid of what you don't want because neither the goats or flails/bush hogs kill the roots.

Ralph

 

[TheMan419]

Ralph this is on a ditch bank. No way to hit it w bush hog. If I could I would just keep mowing down and get it under control that way.

I understand the volatility of the 24d.

Problem w roundup is I want to save the grasses that are growing for erosion control.

 

[nyone]

Why not just go in there with some lopers? How big of an area are we talking about?

Yes spraying is prob easier but can be costly to more than just your pocket.

 

[TheMan419]

1500 feet of ditch bank. Has not been maintained for 10 years as near as I can tell.

 

[fried1765]

1500 feet of ditch bank. Has not been maintained for 10 years as near as I can tell.

As Jeff suggests, Gordons works great,.... and it is cost effective!
If you cut any of the brush off with a saw, just paint the Gordons (not diluted) on the stumps with a throw away brush.

 

[RalphVa]

Ralph this is on a ditch bank. No way to hit it w bush hog. If I could I would just keep mowing down and get it under control that way.

I understand the volatility of the 24d.

Problem w roundup is I want to save the grasses that are growing for erosion control.

Safest, most effective way is to cut and daub the stump with glyphosate. Will not damage anything around it. Just kills what you cut and daubed. Roundup/glyphosate are about the most effective for doing this. TriChlor, particularly this time of year, just does not stay in solution.

We were just doing that very thing this afternoon: cutting autumn olives, green thornies and oriental bittersweet and a grape vine or two.\



Ralph

 

[TheMan419]

As Jeff suggests, Gordons works great,.... and it is cost effective!
If you cut any of the brush off with a saw, just paint the Gordons (not diluted) on the stumps with a throw away brush.

Yes it looks pretty cost effective. I suspect come spring I will be giving it a try.

 

[TheMan419]

Safest, most effective way is to cut and daub the stump with glyphosate. Will not damage anything around it. Just kills what you cut and daubed. Roundup/glyphosate are about the most effective for doing this. TriChlor, particularly this time of year, just does not stay in solution.

We were just doing that very thing this afternoon: cutting autumn olives, green thornies and oriental bittersweet and a grape vine or two.\

Ralph

Nothing works this time of year here. It is lucky to get above freezing. Looking to do this in the spring once stuff starts to grow.

However no effective way for me to hand trim 1500 feet of ditch bank. So need a chemical solution.

 

[Jstpssng]

Ralph this is on a ditch bank. No way to hit it w bush hog. If I could I would just keep mowing down and get it under control that way.

I understand the volatility of the 24d.

Problem w roundup is I want to save the grasses that are growing for erosion control.

The thing about Roundup is that it binds with the soil, so that you can plant seed in a few days. Meanwhile the roots of the brush that you kill are still there so that you shouldn't need to worry about erosion.

I try to keep my pesticide use to a minimum but sometimes it's the proper tool for the job. My family homestead is inundated with invasives, I"ve identified seven so far, of which Autumn Olive, Norway Maple, and Bittersweet are all causing problems. I spent two days last year cutting and stump treating the olive before the seed crop matured. This year I'm going on the offense, spraying every plant that I can find.
The worst part is that out of at least 7 invasives, the Norway Maple is the only one which originated on our property. All others came from someplace else... most likely spread by birds which eat the fruit, then pass the seed miles away.

 

[TheMan419]

The thing about Roundup is that it binds with the soil, so that you can plant seed in a few days. Meanwhile the roots of the brush that you kill are still there so that you shouldn't need to worry about erosion.

I try to keep my pesticide use to a minimum but sometimes it's the proper tool for the job. My family homestead is inundated with invasives, I"ve identified seven so far, of which Autumn Olive, Norway Maple, and Bittersweet are all causing problems. I spent two days last year cutting and stump treating the olive before the seed crop matured. This year I'm going on the offense, spraying every plant that I can find.
The worst part is that out of at least 7 invasives, the Norway Maple is the only one which originated on our property. All others came from someplace else... most likely spread by birds which eat the fruit, then pass the seed miles away.

Yes despite my asking about chemicals here I am trying to keep my use to a minimum. Turning to a weed burner to keep the gravel drive weed free rather than roundup.