Woodsplitter build #2

[Scooby074]

Todays work was welding the base plate used 2 # of 5/32 MG 500 rod. Nice rod once I got up to 145A and stopped making voids. This was the 60d bevel on one side. I won't do that again. I clamped it down pretty good but one side warped up a bit. I think I can work around it.
I also beveled the grader blade 60d but shallower and both sides. When I weld that not only clamp it well but keep flipping it from side to side and alternating welds end to end etc. Out of rod till Monday.

Im a bit confused by this? Are you welding those 3 pieces together because thats all the steel you have over buying a larger single piece? If thats the case i probably would have scrounged a large single piece to avoid any warping issues (as youve found) and save $$$ on rod.

I used hardened cutting edge on mine as well. Its held up well for the 6 or so cord i split so far, but i wonder if it was necessary on my splitter. I think if i had to do it over i would have used 1" cold rolled for the tip of my wedge. The 3/4 that i used isnt as strong as i would have liked.

 

[6sunset6]

yes 3 pieces to make base plate. If I was doing it over I would buy a big piece except they charge a lot for cutting. These pieces were drops I got 200# for $100. Live and learn. I am using Grader blade which has a little more carbon than hot rolled . It gets welded to another plate to make it bigger.
I think I will grind on the edge a little bit to get it sharper. I should mill it . I just put the mill head back to 90d, I guess I could crank it back to 30 and run down the plate. The wedge on the splitter I have been using for 10 years is 3/4 with a sharp edge and I have never touched it.

 

[Scooby074]

Im fortunate that i have a local scrap yard that usually has a fair bit of scrap plate going through. I buy their scrap for what they paid. Works out great! Use what i want then return the rest as scrap. All it costs me is gas for the torches when i get home... thats the worse part by far :confused2:

If i need new steel im lucky there too... they dont charge me for a few cuts. If you need to get something sheared or bent, they charge for that however.


I ground mine to a sharp point, maybe 30* included angle. Your only beveling one side so id be tempted to go 15-20* on the bevel. I dont think its rocket science, but i think having a thinner edge of the wedge is more efficient. Ive seen people argue that wider angles are better because they get the wood to "pop" faster, but im firmly entrenched in the thinner wedge is better camp.

 

[6sunset6]

I agree about a narrow wedge. Both work I think. The box wedge on this splitter has to be narrow or the pieces will jam in the box.
Wish I had a steel yard around like you do.
Where are you in Nova Scotia? I took the overnight ferry to Yarmuth I think it was once and spend 3 weeks all over. Nice place and really nice people. I still talk about the scallops we had at Digby.

 

[Scooby074]

Yeah its a good yard. Were pretty much allowed to roam around unescorted looking for that perfect "piece of scrap" so long as there is no heavy equipment operating. I hear stories of people being denied access to the scrap pile... i couldnt imagine not having that luxury. Its smart from a customer relations standpoint .. being reasonable keeps people from lodging unsightly premises and other complaints too:laughing:

 

[6sunset6]

Moving right along. I think I have all the major structural work done for the beam. Everything is tacked. Now I just have to remember to weld everything.
It is getting heavy. I dropped the top plate to the box wedge and it fell on the line cord for my grinder. Sheared it right in half. Good thing It was not my toe. I do wear steel toed boots when working on heavy stuff. What a difference in distortion using a vee groove from both sides instead of one side. The bottom of the box wedge was one side welded. You can see the warp in the plate on the end it slants down. The top plate I welded both top and bottom and alternated beads as well. I can only tack now I only have 6011 1/8 rod left.
Thursday I will get some more 5/32 probably 6011 as well. I am starting to remember the aggravation with large metal projects. Get it all welded and then take it apart to prep for paint , then paint. Now I remember why I wanted a 100psi 100cfm air compressor. I have one , a 1947 Schramm that uses a 1940 Ford V 8 flathead . It's 1/2 rebuilt . I should pass it on to someone who will finish rebuilding it. It won't be me ,I don't think.

 

[6sunset6]

Still at it. No pictures tonight. Mounted the valves. Started plumbing fittings.
I think I will have as much $$ in fittings as anything else. They add up fast.
And I am always short one or 2. Absolutely no hose orders until all fittings are in place. Looks like another week or two. I discovered that the inline return filter , while it has a bypass valve so a plugged filter will not hold up flow, there is no check valve in the line. The return port on the tank is about 1/2 way up. So if I plumbed it straight into the port , when I pull the filter I would have 1/2 a tank of oil in my lap. So the filter has to be mounted higher than the highest oil level in the tank. More fittings and expensive ones. I think I need a bracket to hold the filter housing as well. More sawing, drilling and welding. Speaking of welding, I have not gotten to Tractor supply yet so no 5/32 rod. Tomorrow I will be over that way. See what they have in 6011 and 6013. 6011 I have been using forever and 5/32 at 145 A works well on 3/4 plate. 6013 is supposed to through less splatter and make a better looking bead. I will probably try to get the smallest amount I can of 5/32 and see how it behaves. Lets see, I am up to the log lifter, back to sawing 1/2 plate and looking around the racks for the long pieces. It is amazing I have cut all the steel with one band saw blade . I have a pile of steel saw dust in a cone about 10' across and 5 inches high in the tray at the bottom of the saw. I did break the blade once but I buy 100ft rolls and make my own . I have a blade welder so I just welded it back together. I make the new ones as long as I can so when they break I can cut a little off and start over. Tomorrow is a work day on the Appalachian trail so I won't get anything done . The good thing is that Tractor supply is near where we are working.

 

[mudbug250]

I had the opportunity tonight to buy a Chicago electric 90 amp flux wire welder for $45. It was "new" in a a damaged box at a salvage wholesale store. I did not get it because it looked cheap and was afraid all parts were not in the box.

 

[Scooby074]

I had the opportunity tonight to buy a Chicago electric 90 amp flux wire welder for $45. It was "new" in a a damaged box at a salvage wholesale store. I did not get it because it looked cheap and was afraid all parts were not in the box.

you dodged a bullet there. Save your $45 and put it towards something decent

 

[6sunset6]

Pictures . Picked up 5/32 welding rod today. Will start final welding on box wedge, sled and cylinder anchor this weekend. Waiting for plumbing fittings from DHH. Cylinder should ship next week.

 

[Scooby074]

Wedge looks good. Like the bevel.

I like the powerpack idea. Could be used to run various items when the splitter isnt needed.

 

[6sunset6]

Yes the dual use is always in the back of my mind. The only real issue is the dual stage pump. It might not work for something else. Would work great for a press though.

 

[6sunset6]

Slow going. Waiting for plumbing fittings, waiting for the big cylinder. Mean time I do not use a cad program. I used to use Autocad but with so many upgrades to new operating systems my Autocad became non compatible. I don't use it enough to pay for one. I tried google sketch bit can't make it do what I want.
Tried Doublecad ,free, but not comfortable with that either. So pencil and paper and some old tricks like cardboard and pivot points. See picture,
Log lift. Since the controls are on the same side as the lifter and I have to stand on the lifter to move a log I need to make the lifter vertical , That meant the motion has to be 90d. I was trying to package the cylinder into a short space under the beam but it won't work. A 4 inch stroke is 14.24 inches long.
It is going to stick down Oh Well
Did not get to welding yet but have the rod. Soon Actually I think I am waiting for the big cylinder just in case something has to move

 

[J_J]

6sunset6,

About where to mount the filter, I would put the filter in a 10 in extension on the side of the tank.

Install a nipple in the tank return port, then 90 elbow, then 10 in vertical pipe, then 90 elbow, a short nipple will connects filter out port on the filter housing. Connect the filter input side whatever way you want. Now, when you remove the filter housing there will be no loss of fluid.

The filter housing should be equal to the top of the tank.

 

[6sunset6]

Thats the plan. Might not be quite that high but close. Waiting for DHH to ship.

 

[6sunset6]

3 shipments due next week Plumbing on Monday, big cylinder on Tues and the lifter cyl and some hoses on Thurs. It's a good thing I tack stuff. I wanted to maintain clearance for a 24" cylinder in case I sold the thing to a purist. I forgot when I was tacking the valve platform. I only had 23 1/2 inches clear. I was going to leave it but then I realized the platform also got in the way of the mag drill I need to use to drill 12 holes for the cylinder anchor. So off it came.
I also cut and tacked the log lifter. What a disaster that turned into. Pivot point is wrong as well as some other stuff. More grinding out tack I think. I quit after a couple of hours today. Too cold and since it is Sunday I started too late to heat up the shop. I will get some pictures tomorrow.

 

[6sunset6]

Got some work done today 2 steps forward 1 step back.
Need a longer nipple for the return filter picture 1 Fittings were structured different at the beginning and then I had to raise the whole thing.
Ram cylinder came , it fit and I drilled the holes to bolt down the anchor , plus 4 extra holes so if someone wants to install a 24" cylinder it can be done.
Then the valve mounting plate hit the cylinder fittings at the original height. Right now I raised the valve mounting plate to clear the fittings on the cylinder. I would have to extend legs 2 inches but I don't have enough material. I could patch something up but I am not sure I like the valve handles that high. Have to stare at it for a while. Getting closer to major welding.

 

[Scooby074]

Got some work done today 2 steps forward 1 step back.
Need a longer nipple for the return filter picture 1 Fittings were structured different at the beginning and then I had to raise the whole thing.
Ram cylinder came , it fit and I drilled the holes to bolt down the anchor , plus 4 extra holes so if someone wants to install a 24" cylinder it can be done.
Then the valve mounting plate hit the cylinder fittings at the original height. Right now I raised the valve mounting plate to clear the fittings on the cylinder. I would have to extend legs 2 inches but I don't have enough material. I could patch something up but I am not sure I like the valve handles that high. Have to stare at it for a while. Getting closer to major welding.

Love the mag drill. They sure make life easier. Good idea adding the extra holes.

I had the same issue with the valves hitting the head end port of the cylinder. I didnt want to go up higher, so i moved the valve mount back about 3" towards the rear. I should have moved it 6" because i ended up with some funky plumbing. Not the neatest but it works.

 

[6sunset6]

Jason, Where did you get that tank with the immersion return filter. I looked for one like that but only found Donaldson and would have had to modify the tank.
It looks like you have the same splitter valve I have automatic. How do you like it?
I guess I will look at stepping the valves out like you did , mine are 90 d ccw from yours. I could raise it higher and turn the handles down. Have to look at that as well. I think I am going to have to buy some 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 1/8 wall tubing. Bummer but it looks really good.
Forgot to mention the bolts holding down both the wedge and the cylinder anchor are all grade 9 , as are the nuts on the anchor. Allowed me to go from 12 bolts to 8 bolts for some imaginary calculated load. Bolts on the sled are grade 8, but that moves.

 

[Scooby074]

Jason, Where did you get that tank with the immersion return filter. I looked for one like that but only found Donaldson and would have had to modify the tank.
It looks like you have the same splitter valve I have automatic. How do you like it?
I guess I will look at stepping the valves out like you did , mine are 90 d ccw from yours. I could raise it higher and turn the handles down. Have to look at that as well. I think I am going to have to buy some 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 1/8 wall tubing. Bummer but it looks really good.
Forgot to mention the bolts holding down both the wedge and the cylinder anchor are all grade 9 , as are the nuts on the anchor. Allowed me to go from 12 bolts to 8 bolts for some imaginary calculated load. Bolts on the sled are grade 8, but that moves.

Bob, The tank cane from Princess Auto. Its one of their PAL hydraulics line. Its their "Industrial line". Made in Canada.

The hardware came installed, but i believe the housing should be available at a decent hydraulics supply house. you'll have to cut the top to give a place for the filter to go, and weld on (or bolt) the housing mount to the tank. The part you see in the pic bolts to the housing mount thats welded to the tank on my one, the same effect could be achieved by nuts and bolts or tapping the metal of the tank if its thick enough . There is a door bolted on top of that part that allows you to change the filter without removing your return line.

An intank filter like a Donaldson FIK or TI25 is what you want, as you mentioned, there is no way to install it without modifying the tank. One good thing is, the filter is above the oil level so it shouldnt leak easily.

Low Pressure Filters Overview

My Tank.

15 Gallon Reservoir with In-Tank Filter and Baffle | Princess Auto

I love my autovalve. Its great, dont think id change it for anything. Really speeds things up and allow you to keep hands free for loading or piling wood during the cycle. Only thing id do different would be to get the valve that was PB capable. It makes plumbing easier.

My valves are on the opposite side of the lift. This is the "work" side. You might look at offsetting the valve location to one side for clearance. My valves are about breast height. This works for me.