Wish we had a clutch....

[MossRoad]

Would a cold weather (low-vis) hydraulic oil make an improvement? or an oil heater ? or a higher CCA battery ?

Yes, yes and yes! :laughing:

It comes with 5W-30 or 40 in the hydraulic tank, so it's all 5W when it's cold.
It's hard to find a larger CAA battery to fit in my limited battery area. The newer designed machines might have room for a larger CCA battery.

 

[woodlandfarms]

You know, you can buy Tesla batteries and wheel motors from totalled Teslas... I wonder..... How much HP is in a single wheel motor? Enough to drive the pumps?

 

[4570Man]

It seems like the low hanging fruit would be getting some heat on the pumps.

 

[aczlan]

You know, you can buy Tesla batteries and wheel motors from totalled Teslas... I wonder..... How much HP is in a single wheel motor? Enough to drive the pumps?

If converting to electric, you would gain a fair amount of efficiency if you could put electrical motors directly on the wheels rather than putting hydraulics in the middle.
Then you could use a smaller motor for hydraulics.

Aaron Z

 

[cqaigy2]

After you change the hydraulic filter, what's the next thing you're supposed to do?

Bleed the pump.

How do we bleed the pump?

We disconnect the spark plugs, stick the hose on the bleed port and the other end into the tank.

Then we crank the starter and watch the air bubbles.

Where are the air bubbles coming from?

Fluid being pushed through the pump.

The swash plate is in neutral.

Is my thinking incorrect? It has been many times before, so have at it if I'm mistaken.

Oh, ya good point.

 

[MossRoad]

Ya! :laughing:

I had to think about that one for a while, believe me. I once pulled the hose out of the tank while cranking just to see how much oil is moving through that bleed port. It was quite a bit. I can only imagine what would happen if we didn't pull the spark plug wires and the engine kicked over.

 

[MossRoad]

It seems like the low hanging fruit would be getting some heat on the pumps.

They aren't easily accessible, that's for sure. Not much surface area to put a heat pad on.

We could always go the airplane pre-heater route. I'd have some concerns about where to direct the airflow without melting wiring, though.

 

[aczlan]

They aren't easily accessible, that's for sure. Not much surface area to put a heat pad on.

We could always go the airplane pre-heater route. I'd have some concerns about where to direct the airflow without melting wiring, though.

You would probably be better off putting heat on the hydraulic tank near the bottom front (magnetic or silicon heater?) and a heavy blanket over the top of the rear tub and down as far as you can on all sides.
Then you will suck warm hydraulic fluid into the pumps and that will warm them up from the inside out.

Aaron Z

 

[MossRoad]

You would probably be better off putting heat on the hydraulic tank near the bottom front (magnetic or silicon heater?) and a heavy blanket over the top of the rear tub and down as far as you can on all sides.
Then you will suck warm hydraulic fluid into the pumps and that will warm them up from the inside out.

Aaron Z

Yep. If I went the electric heater pad route, I'd put it on the backside of the hydraulic tank inside the engine compartment as far down as I could. But man, that's a lot of cold steel radiator to have to send heat through. Maybe a heated dipstick through the fill hole would work, too, but you'd defiantly want a blanket over it, that's for sure. That steel is cold as a witch's ah, err, freezer.

 

[aczlan]

Yep. If I went the electric heater pad route, I'd put it on the backside of the hydraulic tank inside the engine compartment as far down as I could. But man, that's a lot of cold steel radiator to have to send heat through. Maybe a heated dipstick through the fill hole would work, too, but you'd defiantly want a blanket over it, that's for sure. That steel is cold as a witch's ah, err, freezer.

Ah, I thought that the hydraulic fluid tank was at the back of the tub and the motor was in front of it.
I hear that heated dipsticks can cause the oil to overheat around the dipstick and burn it (small surface area, not enough convection to keep it cool enough).

Aaron Z

 

[MossRoad]

Ah, I thought that the hydraulic fluid tank was at the back of the tub and the motor was in front of it.
I hear that heated dipsticks can cause the oil to overheat around the dipstick and burn it (small surface area, not enough convection to keep it cool enough).

Aaron Z

Back in the 70's I had a heated dipstick for my car, and I agree with you on the overheating issue there, as the dipstick was only an inch or two into the oil. The PT425 (the model I have) hydraulic reservoir is probably 10" deep of oil. So it may not be as much of an issue. But I'd think IF you could get that pad to heat a large metal plate area, that would be hundreds of times the surface area of that dipstick.

 

[MossRoad]

Here's an overhead look at the area. The hydraulic tank is in front of the engine compartment.



And here's a look at the back wall of that tank, looking at the tram pump as well. That's the area of the tank that's most protected for a glue-on pad heater, I'd think.

 

[BobRip]

That痴 my understanding of it. Charge pump is sending fluid through the filter.

 

[BobRip]

I believe this heating pad is now an option from Power Trac.

 

[ptsg]

Since making all the pumps able to disconnect is such a pain with such small space, why not disconnect just the gears pumps? These are usually the ones that require more power to turn since they are fixed displacement pumps and are trying to move a LOT of cold oil through the system. I don't the hydrostatic pump requires more power than the gear pumps.

Disconnecting the hydraulic pumps is really common in Eastern European tractors. They disconnect the pumps via a lever near the pumps, start the engine and let it warm up, then they shutdown to engage the pumps and start again. They just use a clutch similar to a dog clutch or a transmission synchro rings.

 

[airbiscuit]

Any of these clutches would go nicely with those cute little PTs. As a bonus, you can carry a few tools in them :wink:

 

[MossRoad]

Since making all the pumps able to disconnect is such a pain with such small space, why not disconnect just the gears pumps? These are usually the ones that require more power to turn since they are fixed displacement pumps and are trying to move a LOT of cold oil through the system. I don't the hydrostatic pump requires more power than the gear pumps.

Disconnecting the hydraulic pumps is really common in Eastern European tractors. They disconnect the pumps via a lever near the pumps, start the engine and let it warm up, then they shutdown to engage the pumps and start again. They just use a clutch similar to a dog clutch or a transmission synchro rings.

Yes, that's exactly what we're talking about doing.

 

[MossRoad]

Any of these clutches would go nicely with those cute little PTs. As a bonus, you can carry a few tools in them :wink:

It goes well with your little black dress.

 

[airbiscuit]

It goes well with your little black dress.

You got me ( and thanks, I love that dress) :drink:

 

[MossRoad]

You got me ( and thanks, I love that dress) :drink:

:laughing: