Why did my tractor start?

[frogpond]

I’d be more inclined to go with a loose connection on battery cables somewhere but potentially the 3rd function had gotten engaged and the starter wasn’t strong enough to turn it with the pump deadheaded.

Hmmm...I suppose I might have pushed one of the 3rd function buttons by accident. How could I test this theory?

 

[lpakiz]

I think that if it's resistance via the hydraulic system, (the third function idea) that you could observe a slight movement of the fan/alternator belt during a start attempt. Have someone hit the starter while you watch for movement.
PS. I don't have a third function, not positive how they work, but I assumed that the switch was a "momentary contact" button. If so, it could only cause hydraulic lock when activated.
When not activated, doesn't the function return to the spool valve (joystick) itself?

 

[frogpond]

I think that if it's resistance via the hydraulic system, (the third function idea) that you could observe a slight movement of the fan/alternator belt during a start attempt. Have someone hit the starter while you watch for movement.
PS. I don't have a third function, not positive how they work, but I assumed that the switch was a "momentary contact" button. If so, it could only cause hydraulic lock when activated.
When not activated, doesn't the function return to the spool valve (joystick) itself?

Yes, they are momentary contact buttons.

 

[JasperFrank]

How did you test voltage? Across Batery Terminals + and -, or Across Termial + and a frame ground point? The clicks that you heard, was it the starter solenoid? This would rule out any of the safety switches.

 

[bmaverick]

No remote start capability. I didn't even know that exists for tractors.

that's been out there since early 2000s. I have remote start on my genset too.

 

[frogpond]

Tested across battery terminals. I thought the clicks were fuel pump.

How did you test voltage? Across Batery Terminals + and -, or Across Termial + and a frame ground point? The clicks that you heard, was it the starter solenoid? This would rule

 

[rScotty]

I would start with the PTO engagement lever switch. Mine got a little out of adjustment. Sometimes it would start, sometimes it wouldn't. The quick "fix" was to let the lever snap back to the off position. The permanent fix was to readjust it.

Doug in SW IA

That's one of the things I would look at. Basically look at all the "safety" no-start switches and their wires. My seat has two of those switches, the PTO one, the clutch has one, the hand brake has one, and I'm sure that there are more. Every one of them has an adjustment. Last time mine wouldn't start it was one of the seat switches....actually it was the wire to a seat safety switch which had migrated over to the seat spring so that when I sat down in the seat the the safety switch actuated properly and the engine started, but then later on when I shiftted positions the current through that switch was shorted to ground by the seat spring - which blew the fuse.

So the symptoms were that the tractor would be working fine when for no particular reason the motor would stop. And then the starter wouldn't re-start it. Investigation showed all the safety switches were fine, but a fuse was blown. I'd replace the fuse and all would be fine for awhile until the motor stopped again. Another fuse. Again and again.... until I just happened to notice that seat switch wire...

rScotty

 

[frogpond]

That's one of the things I would look at. Basically look at all the "safety" no-start switches and their wires. My seat has two of those switches, the PTO one, the clutch has one, the hand brake has one, and I'm sure that there are more. Every one of them has an adjustment. Last time mine wouldn't start it was one of the seat switches....actually it was the wire to a seat safety switch which had migrated over to the seat spring so that when I sat down in the seat the the safety switch actuated properly and the engine started, but then later on when I shiftted positions the current through that switch was shorted to ground by the seat spring - which blew the fuse.

So the symptoms were that the tractor would be working fine when for no particular reason the motor would stop. And then the starter wouldn't re-start it. Investigation showed all the safety switches were fine, but a fuse was blown. I'd replace the fuse and all would be fine for awhile until the motor stopped again. Another fuse. Again and again.... until I just happened to notice that seat switch wire...

rScotty

But in my case, it started again without changing a fuse. However, I will check the safety switches again. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[frogpond]

Well, back at the tractor today...and of course, it refused to crank. Just a click, then the whirring of the fuel pump. Then, after I turned off the key, another decisive click. Checked to make sure the pto lever was in neutral, and that the foot rocker pedal was neutral.

So then I started in on electrical cables and connections, as suggested. First extracted the battery from its little cave, disconnected the cables, cleaned the terminals, cleaned the posts to bright metal, reconnected. And it eagerly roared into life!

I'm glad it was that simple, and I'm a little embarrassed too. Even though the voltage was okay, both terminal to terminal and terminal to ground, somehow that juice wasn't making it to the starter. I hope it will start again tomorrow.

My thanks to all of you who helped!

 

[lpakiz]

The "somehow" is simply that the amps could not consistently jump the poor battery connection when you called for them. If you didn't, clean the other ends of the big cables, too.
The click AFTER you turned OFF the key could be the "shut-down" solenoid/relay.
That device gets energized for a few seconds when you return the key to OFF. You don't hear it energize because the engine is running but you hear the relay "drop out" after the timer expires, usually several seconds later.
BTW, a D4 Caterpillar works the same way.