Who manufactures the oil cooler on the PT1850

[ponytug]

Since I have the cooler shroud weldment removed, I may attempt additional pipe straps. I will take a photo and post later.

Having had my oil cooler drop loose, I know that I would...

That is an eagle eyed score on the Hayden part number on the wedges. I missed that when mine were out.

All the best,

Peter

 

[ponytug]

I looked for stickers on my oil cooler, but they have eroded with time.

So, I checked my original photos of the oil cooler, looking for the stickers. And...
"Use backup wrench"
No manufacturer information that I could find.

Sorry.

All the best,

Peter

 

[woodlandfarms]

I will check mine as well but haven’t seen a number. Will also check for looseness.

 

[marrt]

There's nothing special about the PT oil cooler. You can use a substitute IF it has the same or greater cooling capacity. Count the number of "pipes," pipe size, and overall dimensions. You should be able to get "close enough." You may even get a better cooler. The more cooling capacity, the better. Although, to be fair, the cooling air flow is the main limitation here. My 1845 has the same cooling fan as my 425. If you want to be safe, get as close as you can to the original cooler and upgrade your cooling fan. Since the 18xx series has a real alternator, you can use a stronger fan (just make sure the wire size is capable on handling the amps).

 

[marrt]

Looking at your pictures again, your oil radiator doesn't look bad at all to me. If it's not leaking, it's not really likely to leak in the future. You can get a "fin comb" from Amazon to straighten those fins (e.g., Supco FCRH6). Unless there's something I'm not seeing in the photos, I'd be inclined to reuse that radiator.

 

[agjones]

I was thinking the same thing. Fins look squished but OK otherwise.

 

[BWSwamper]

Thanks to everyone for all the info and suggestions.

To clarify, the damage to the cooler I'm concerned about isn't the squished fins, it is a joint in the copper tubing. I can't seem to get a good photo of it, but its where one of the cooling tubes joins one of the side tubes. I discovered this when I removed the cooler so that a welding shop could repair the damaged engine cover. (They wouldn't work on the engine cover with it on the machine and wanted everything possible removed.)

My buddy the heavy equipment operator told me if the joint goes, repair attempts would likely not be successful and would likely push up toward the cost of a replacement cooler, so I'm trying to identify the cooler just in case. At this point, I will plan to reassemble and keep an eye on it.

While it is still apart, I painted the cooler shroud weldment. I'm attaching a couple of photos for the archives, so to speak.

I think I'm going to add two more pipe hangers for a more secure cooler mount. I'm also going to replace all the rubber mounting wedges as she goes back together.

As an aside, the damage to the engine cover was from the PO. The machine had been backed into something hard which must have snagged the rear mesh. It tore the wire mesh open and cracked off part of the engine fan shroud. I replaced the engine fan shroud shortly after getting the machine, but just recently got around to getting the engine cover fixed. The welding shop replaced the entire rear surface mesh with a tougher expanded wire comparable in opening size to the original. The expanded wire they used is the same material they use on their trailer ramps, so much more rigid (not flat like the original PT cover mesh). They repainted the engine cover in gloss black, - which really sticks out on the old machine.

 

[BWSwamper]

Doubling up cooler retaining straps...

 

[BWSwamper]

Back in the weldment with double straps and new wedges.

 

[Goose1776]

Looks good.!