Who manufactures the oil cooler on the PT1850

[BWSwamper]

Does anyone know the manufacturer of the hydraulic oil cooler (mounted on top of the engine cover) used on the PT1850. I may need to replace the one on my machine and would like to go directly to the source if possible.

There is a sticker on the cooler on my machine, but it is too old and faded to read. Perhaps someone with a newer machine could take a look.

 

[agjones]

Did you try to source it at pt? I've so far been surprised pleasantly by their parts pricing.

 

[BWSwamper]

Did you try to source it at pt? I've so far been surprised pleasantly by their parts pricing.

I didn't call Power Trac on this one. Last item I bought from them was the hydraulic cooler fan which they priced at more than twice the direct price.

My suspicion is that the hydraulic fluid cooler is a Hayden model #2271.

 

[agjones]

Gotcha, I'll check mine for #s this weekend

 

[BWSwamper]

Thanks very for your help. I did end up checking with Power Trac. They quoted $1,200 for the cooler, while the online retailers for the Hayden #2271 (18"x24"x3") quoted as low as $322. I guess the price differential is heavily dependent on the particular item. The cooler on my machine is painted silver, while the online ones are black. The cooler has copper tubing with aluminum fins.

I'm curious how your machine is set up with respect to the mounting of the rubber mounting wedges that cooler sits up against. The PO of my machine apparently had replaced some of wedges and some were "little end out" and some were "little end in". When the wedges are new and flexible they can be mounted either way, but once the cook from the operating heat, ones with the large end up in the cooler tubes can't be removed without cutting them or risking damaging the copper tubing by yanking or driving them out. Practically, I think that means that to remove the cooler in the future, "big-end-in-the-tubing" orientation means one would need to remove the cooler shroud weldment in order to remove the cooler from the engine cowling. However, "big-end-in-the-tubing" orientation does have the benefit that the wedges themselves help secure the cooler in place instead of just the two pipe hangers.

 

[ponytug]

I had my cooler slip past the rubber wedges. (Dropped the engine cover too hard once too often I guess.) My understanding from Terry is that the rubber blocks go wide end toward the engine. He was careful to caution me not to undertighten them lest the cooler fall out again, but also not to over tighten them either as that might pull the block beyond the cooling tube. "Threading a needle"

To be honest, I don't know know if the rubber is wedge shaped when new. I had the impression from Terry that they weren't, but I don't recall him saying that explicitly.

Good luck on the swap. (Can I ask why?)

All the best,

Peter

 

[BWSwamper]

With respect to the cooler, it would be a replacement, not swap. The machine is a 2007. There is damage at one of the pipe/wedge interface which looks like a failure waiting to happen. A heavy equipment operator friend says if it starts leaking, not to try and mend it, but rather replace. I'm researching in advance of that likelihood.

My engine cover had been damaged in operation by the PO. I had to remove the engine cover from the machine, and the cooler and cooler shroud weldment from the engine cover in order to have the welding shop do the repairs. Removing the cooler is when I became aware of the inconsistency of installation of the rubber wedges.

The "big end toward the engine" is the orientation of some of the old rubber wedges, but not all. (PO replacement?) I spoke with Terry yesterday and I understood him to say small end toward engine, so the cooler would slip on to the rubber wedge blocks with the two pipe hangers being the actual attachment mechanism. I guess it is rather difficult to describe over the phone. Either way, I'd like to put it back as intended.

I will take a photo of the new replacement rubber wedges and post.

 

[ponytug]

Hmmm... while I would go along with the pipe hangers being the fixtures that ultimately secure the oil cooler to the cover, at least on my unit, I can tell you that the rubber wedge are responsible for holding it in place.

IIRC, I remember looking for more places to add extra pipe hangers and decided that absent a complete redo on the mounting design there weren't any that I could add. Your mounts may be different than mine.

All the best,

Peter

 

[BWSwamper]

Thanks. I agree. The wedges should be placed so they themselves help hold the cooler in place. I called Terry back and using the "big end toward the engine" terminology, we got on the same page.

I'm attaching a photo of new and service heat cooked wedges. When the wedges are new, the big end can easily be tucked up between the "upper" (as in-service) pipes. Once they cook, they lose flexibility and are difficult to remove unless they break in two.

The hard-engine-cover-close issue leading to the cooler falling out must be pretty common. My machine's current cooler has the drop marks from where the hydraulic oil cooler slipped out and landed on the top of the engine oil cooler. Interestingly, the hydraulic oil cooler only fell out on that side where someone in the past had installed replacement wedges backward "small end toward engine". [In these photos the engine-facing "down" side (when in-service) is facing up as the cooler lays on the work bench.]

Still hoping to verify that Hayden part number if anyone gets a chance to look. The wedges were labeled as Hayden parts , so I'm pretty sure about the cooler manufacturer.

 

[BWSwamper]

Since I have the cooler shroud weldment removed, I may attempt additional pipe straps. I will take a photo and post later.