Which oil to use????

[HEC]

I have a toro wheel horse garden tractor with a hydro. transmission and the manual states to use a 10w 30 oil for the transmission.I was planning on useing a synthetic oil if that isn't a problem.You would think they would want a hydraulic fluid instead of reg. motor oil but it doesn't state that.Any suggestions????

 

[wolfe1]

Use what the book says and you can't go wrong- to me its kind of like arguing Ford vs. Chevy- niether side product will ever be the best

 

[FOURTEEN]

<font color="blue"> ( Any suggestions???? ) </font>


<font color="red"> I recommend Amsoil MCF .

Not only does it provide superior motor oil qualities to what Wheel Horse calls for, but also the benefit that with this motorcycle motor oil "there is no need for separate transmission lubricants. It is absolutely shear stable and will not thin out from mechanical activity. AMSOIL MCF performs like a gear lube without the negative effects of extreme pressure additives. In the FZG gear test, AMSOIL MCF achieved a perfect score with a “zero” wear rating."

So you not only follow the manufacturer's manual, but far exceed it!

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[FOURTEEN]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Use what the book says and you can't go wrong)</font>


<font color="red"> My caveat is that manufacturers make their money by selling their products, not by making them last indefinitely! Ideally, for a manufacturer, a product will last long enough to exceed its warranty and make the owner think that it is a 'good' enough product that he will buy a replacement. So, while the manual may specify 'adequate' care, it may not be the 'best' care. By giving your tools the 'best' care they may indeed last much longer than expected! </font>

 

[HEC]

Thanks, it looks like a great product , all I have to do now is find some and I will use it my motorcyle also.
Thanks again,
Herb

 

[FOURTEEN]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( all I have to do now is find some )</font>


<font color="red"> Although it is available many places, I have received the best prices and service from Greg .

Amsoil is more expensive, but still represents such a tiny amount compared to the cost of the equipment that it is really insignificant compared to the possible benefits derived.

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[JasonH]

My old Dixon has a 12hp Kawasaki single that's 18 years old, and I have no idea what the hours on it are. I started using Mobil 1 in it this past summer because they carry the stuff that is supposed to be good for 15,000 miles. I figure this means I can change it once a year and be good to go. So far so good. People think it's crazy to put expensive oil in an engine that would only cost 6-700$ to replace. I can buy a lot of expensive oil for that much money.

 

[FOURTEEN]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I started using Mobil 1 in it this past summer because they carry the stuff that is supposed to be good for 15,000 miles. I figure this means I can change it once a year and be good to go. )</font>


<font color="red"> Maybe, but I still like changing oil and filters on the "severe service" schedule. Even though I use all Amsoil products, my cars are serviced every 3000 miles, and my other engines every 50 hours.

I know that peanut butter is cheaper, but I enjoy steak!! When nice cars cost $35,000 and gas is $2.50 per gallon, a few extra quarts of oil per year don't break my budget!


PS: I have a 1976 Power King tractor with a 14hp Kohler that runs on Amsoil as sweetly as it did 30 years ago!

</font> /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[kenmac]

Mobil 1 E.P. 15000 mile oil is not rated for small 4 stroke engines. Mobil has a 4 stroke oil. I use amsoil in all my stuff now. They have diesel oil, 4 stroke oil oil for gasoline engines , atv's ,etc, they have an oil for all engine classes.

 

[JasonH]

I'm not really sure what you're talking about when you say it's not rated for small 4 stroke engines. All the certifications of the bottle match the ones in the owners manual.

In this current house I'm living in, you could almost get away with a push mower. So last year I only put about 10-15 hours on the mower. Prior to that I was putting close to 100 hours/season on it.

A lot of these specialized formulas for engine oils are marketing scams. I'm not saying there aren't differences, I'm just saying the differences aren't as profound as many people want to believe.

Keep in mind that when the engine on my mower was built, straight 30 weight was the standard.

The most important thing of all to remember is that this mower is 18 years old. I imagine the engine has about 1000 hour on it. That's a lot for a lawn mower engine. The engine has outlived two starter motors and a transaxle. I'm getting a Kubota GR2100 in a few days because I'll be moving back to an area with some more land very shortly. From this point on, the mower will be a back up and that's about it. If my choice of oil causes a catastrophic engine failure it's not a big deal. It will simply give me an excuse to try and figure out how to install a small v-twin.