Which land plane today?
- Thread starter Sid Post
- Start date
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- land plane landplane
I have an 8' Cammond "land plane" in use for over a decade. Mostly used on 1/2 mile gravel road. Heavy made, good welds, etc. Only had to replace the wear skids once and the company was helpful with parts direct. You can find their specs for all sizes under the name, "Cammond Industrial Grading Scraper." For prices, need to see what your closest dealer would be.I waffled and never got an EA landplane ordered, thank goodness.
Who builds the better landplanes today for reasonable money, not cheap and not expensive? I need appropriate for my Massey 5711D so, construction and design quality matter so I don't tear it up on my farm property or my driveway. It also needs to be weighted properly to cut well, not just to keep it from falling apart; meaning it has enough structure (aka weight) to not warp, bend, or fail in reasonable use!
TIA,
Sid
p.s. General pricing and specs for reference would be helpful to me today and others in the future.
oosik
Super Star Member
We all know how the "short connect" on a rear blade or box blade works. It's why its so very difficult to use one of these implements and smooth out a driveway with humps, bumps. ups/downs, etc.
For the uninformed - the front of the tractor rises on a hump - the rear blade drop and makes the woop-te-doo even worse. The front of the tractor drops in the far side of a hump - the rear blade rises and completely misses the hump. I have a hydraulic top link and it's still a PITA. Controlling the tractor and trying to control the rear blade.
What is needed is an actual pull behind road grader OR a helper. I would have the wife drive the tractor - I would control the hydraulic top link. It's not perfect but it's sure a hell of a lot better than all by myself.
It got so we worked in harmony pretty well. She would shout - hump or dip - I would respond with the top link accordingly. At times it became really humorous. We would laugh and laugh - it was a good time together.
For the uninformed - the front of the tractor rises on a hump - the rear blade drop and makes the woop-te-doo even worse. The front of the tractor drops in the far side of a hump - the rear blade rises and completely misses the hump. I have a hydraulic top link and it's still a PITA. Controlling the tractor and trying to control the rear blade.
What is needed is an actual pull behind road grader OR a helper. I would have the wife drive the tractor - I would control the hydraulic top link. It's not perfect but it's sure a hell of a lot better than all by myself.
It got so we worked in harmony pretty well. She would shout - hump or dip - I would respond with the top link accordingly. At times it became really humorous. We would laugh and laugh - it was a good time together.