Which land plane today?

[Sid Post]

I waffled and never got an EA landplane ordered, thank goodness.

Who builds the better landplanes today for reasonable money, not cheap and not expensive? I need appropriate for my Massey 5711D so, construction and design quality matter so I don't tear it up on my farm property or my driveway. It also needs to be weighted properly to cut well, not just to keep it from falling apart; meaning it has enough structure (aka weight) to not warp, bend, or fail in reasonable use!

TIA,
Sid

p.s. General pricing and specs for reference would be helpful to me today and others in the future.

 

[oosik]

Look at Land Pride. They make a very tough LPGS. I have a 84 inch one ( GS2584 )and use it on my mile long gravel driveway.

All my implements are class 2 or 3. So specs and prices would not do you much good.

 

[sea2summit]

I got an iron craft brush hog last fall and am very impressed with it. Brushhog brand would be another I’d look at, Rhino or Dirt Dog as well. Landpride seems way over priced to me.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

Iron Craft makes some good implements. I’ve been highly impressed with my 72” tiller.

Id make sure not to buy their economy models though.

 

[oosik]

I have a mile long driveway. The surface is a combination of gravel, sand, volcanic ash and silt. It dries out, after the spring rains, as HARD as concrete. I have scarifiers on my LPGS. They are very important to break this surface "crust". Otherwise it takes two or three passes to "break" the surface. It's nice and clean - just washed all the dirt off.

 

[oosik]

A LPGS implement is MOST easy to learn to use. Hook it up - drag it.

However - it is not THE implement for ALL jobs.

If I were to have only ONE implement - heavy duty rear blade OR box blade.

I've used a rear blade on my mile long gravel driveway for 42+ years. Still can not say that I'm REALLY proficient/expert at its use. That's just the way with a tractor and rear blade.

Zero time with the LPGS. Hook it up - drag it down the driveway. It does worlds better at smoothing and leveling - than the rear blade. That's just the way with a tractor and LPGS.

 

[Sid Post]

A LPGS implement is MOST easy to learn to use. Hook it up - drag it.

However - it is not THE implement for ALL jobs.

If I were to have only ONE implement - heavy duty rear blade OR box blade.

I've used a rear blade on my mile long gravel driveway for 42+ years. Still can not say that I'm REALLY proficient/expert at its use. That's just the way with a tractor and rear blade.

Zero time with the LPGS. Hook it up - drag it down the driveway. It does worlds better at smoothing and leveling - than the rear blade. That's just the way with a tractor and LPGS.

On driveways, box blades tend to exaggerate the hills and valleys along its length, and catching the tops and filling the bottoms is challenging, to say the least. YMMV.

 

[D&D]

I waffled and never got an EA landplane ordered, thank goodness.

Who builds the better landplanes today for reasonable money, not cheap and not expensive? I need appropriate for my Massey 5711D so, construction and design quality matter so I don't tear it up on my farm property or my driveway. It also needs to be weighted properly to cut well, not just to keep it from falling apart; meaning it has enough structure (aka weight) to not warp, bend, or fail in reasonable use!

TIA,
Sid

p.s. General pricing and specs for reference would be helpful to me today and others in the future.

depends on what you want and what price range. Adjustable and replaceable blades, heavy weight are 2 big pluses.

Road Boss Grader

Simple Affordable Efficient

www.roadboss.org

 

[Sid Post]

depends on what you want and what price range. Adjustable and replaceable blades, heavy weight are 2 big pluses.

Road Boss Grader

Simple Affordable Efficient

www.roadboss.org

The "heavy" Armstrong Ag weighs more and has the replaceable blades. In terms of adjusting the blade angles, I believe it has that feature too but, it is not one I really consider being important. With all the structure involved, I think changing it would a real pain without much gain. YMMV

 

[D&D]

The "heavy" Armstrong Ag weighs more and has the replaceable blades. In terms of adjusting the blade angles, I believe it has that feature too but, it is not one I really consider being important. With all the structure involved, I think changing it would a real pain without much gain. YMMV

It is for setup. Glad to see you found what you wanted.

 

[Williy]

I purchased a LS Land Plane and I will never be able to wear
this unit out! Its well made

willy

 

[MMC]

I waffled and never got an EA landplane ordered, thank goodness.

Who builds the better landplanes today for reasonable money, not cheap and not expensive? I need appropriate for my Massey 5711D so, construction and design quality matter so I don't tear it up on my farm property or my driveway. It also needs to be weighted properly to cut well, not just to keep it from falling apart; meaning it has enough structure (aka weight) to not warp, bend, or fail in reasonable use!

TIA,
Sid

p.s. General pricing and specs for reference would be helpful to me today and others in the future.

I have an 8' Cammond "land plane" in use for over a decade. Mostly used on 1/2 mile gravel road. Heavy made, good welds, etc. Only had to replace the wear skids once and the company was helpful with parts direct. You can find their specs for all sizes under the name, "Cammond Industrial Grading Scraper." For prices, need to see what your closest dealer would be.

 

[oosik]

We all know how the "short connect" on a rear blade or box blade works. It's why its so very difficult to use one of these implements and smooth out a driveway with humps, bumps. ups/downs, etc.

For the uninformed - the front of the tractor rises on a hump - the rear blade drop and makes the woop-te-doo even worse. The front of the tractor drops in the far side of a hump - the rear blade rises and completely misses the hump. I have a hydraulic top link and it's still a PITA. Controlling the tractor and trying to control the rear blade.

What is needed is an actual pull behind road grader OR a helper. I would have the wife drive the tractor - I would control the hydraulic top link. It's not perfect but it's sure a hell of a lot better than all by myself.

It got so we worked in harmony pretty well. She would shout - hump or dip - I would respond with the top link accordingly. At times it became really humorous. We would laugh and laugh - it was a good time together.