Buying Advice Which Kubota to buy

[Taters525]

So here's my situation. I live on 5 acres that needs some brush clean up and I plan on doing quite a bit of landscaping. If it were just that I think my choice would be a lot easier. I live on a privately maintained gravel road about a mile long. And it's not so well maintained. I also have a father in law with a JD 4300 and he has numerous implements he will let me use box grader, tiller, post hole digger, brush hog and some others. With all that said I am thinking about buying my own tractor and starting a business using it. Not going to quit my daytime job (commercial electrician) but something I would enjoy and make money doing it. Or at least make a tractor payment. For the road maintenance I've read you need a fair amount of hp to pull a good box grader and looked at some of the hydraulically operated blade scrapers and they also require a fair amount of power. Was leaning towards the L4701. Am I focusing too much on the HP or is that what u need for road maintenance. I assume it would easily handle other tasks I would use it for like a brush hog tiller and back hoe work. And yes I'm pretty set on getting a Kubota. Good dealer support and it's what I like.

 

[jeff9366]

I live on 5 acres that needs brush clean up and landscaping, plus I need to maintain a private, mile long, gravel road.

My father-in-law has a JD 4300 and numerous implements, He will let me use box grader, tiller, post hole digger, bush hog and others.

I am thinking about buying my own tractor and starting a part-time tractor business. I am not going to quit my day job as a commercial electrician but seek tractor work that would make the tractor payment.

I've read a fair amount of horsepower is required to pull a box grader. I have looked at hydraulically operated blade scrapers and scrapers also require a fair amount of power. How much horsepower do I need for road maintenance?

I'm leaning towards a Kubota L4701. I assume an L4701 would power other implements such as a bush hog, tiller and back hoe.

Advice welcome.


TractorData.com John Deere 4300 tractor information

TractorData.com Kubota L4701 tractor information

 

[skipperbrown]

You at least need enough HP to use the implements at your disposal. However, landscaping, like working in yards, usually begs for a smaller footprint and lighter weight (e.g. less HP). I have a bx, a b, and had an l. Around my house, the l was too big to maneuver and tore up the lawn. The bx was too small for fieldwork and clearance was a problem. I settled for a b. For a nicely powered tractor for road maintenance, I think 47 hp would serve you well (until you want more hp!).

 

[Grandad4]

You will be doing many of the same things I have been since 2002. I bought a new L4610 that year and it has been totally dependable and capable since then. I use a medium duty 72" box blade on our hand-pan, gravel and red clay farm road with good results. It's packed like concrete but the rippers will open it up to remove potholes with repeated passes. The L really doesn't know it's back there or whether the box is full or empty.

A couple of years after the L I got a BX for the small stuff. It has likewise been hard-working and dependable, just in a smaller size. There have been times when I used the BX with its small box blade on the road, and waiting until after a rain had softened things up made quite a difference. It does fine smoothing things out, but you only do a small section at a time.

For "landscaping" around a yard, the BX is the go-to machine. For other things, the L has a great combination of weight, traction and power. I'd suggest going big at first so you can use those implements, and decide later if you also need a BX, zero-turn or other machine for your small chores.

 

[Avery11]

Tater,

I don't maintain a road but I will give you my experience after going through the pain of choosing a machine just like you are doing now. Like you, one of my primary purposes was landscaping so the potential for turf damage was a big concern. I toiled over the B and BX series. Though they have many similar specs, the B is built for a BH as a later add-on whereas the BX must be ordered with one from the factory with a beefed up frame. Also, the B has a few inches more clearance than the BX which comes in very handy when I am traversing through rocky, uneven terrain in the northeast woods. For traction, I liked the larger rear tires of the B and in the seat I feel like I am "in" the tractor instead of "on" it like I felt while testing a BX. For lifting, both machines are similar and I think they even have the same bucket volume - maybe a slight edge to the B.

In use, I have found that the loaded turf tires on my B2320 do absolutely no damage to my lawn, even when the grass and soil are wet. In 4wd on tight turns I will rough up the turf but never in 2WD. I have a 4' Hog, a 5' rake, a 5' rear blade, a 5' belly mower (awesome cut), a trailer mover, a 3PH QA, a ratchet rake, a piranha tooth bar, and clamp on forks. Thus far, there is nothing I've dreamed up that my machine will not do and I have not been easy on it I'll admit. Like others have said, these tractors will run out of traction before they run out of power. I have raked gnarley trails in the woods, lifted buckets filled to the brim with pea stone, pulled stumps, and dragged 30 foot, 15" dia. logs without a hiccup.

I only have 2 acres and I think for size to power, my tractor is ideal for a residential property and/or gentleman's farm up to 5 or even 7 acres. I got an excellent deal on a used B2320 so the other models in that series were not an option. If I owned 5 acres and wanted to do a little heavier work, I would opt for the B26 or 33 models in a heartbeat. Tons of power in a compact package.

Next year I will add a grapple and some dedicated forks from Everything Attachments. Give those folks a look-see.

Best luck, Sir.

A.

 

[oldballs]

Lots of good advice above. I can only reiterate that you might confirm the fit of your FIL's attachments on the tractor that you buy. I've found that my B2620 does all that I ask on 3 acres and some chores on other people's property.....some for free and some with pay (optional).

I also invested in some off the property liability coverage.

And...........I found that those industrial R4 tires (on the B2620) are hard on the turf be it dry or moist and especially in 4 wheel drive.....even being careful. I found the Turf Tires were excellent in snow and on the turf when I had a BX2660.
The B2620 with R4 tires required chains for snow.

 

[Taters525]

If it was just for my property I would definitely be going for a b tractor. But hoping to get some kind of maintenance contract for the road I live on. And think I can stir up some other work clearing brush "lots of scotch broom around here" and general tractor work for people.

 

[newbury]

<snip> With all that said I am thinking about buying my own tractor and starting a business using it. Not going to quit my daytime job (commercial electrician) but something I would enjoy and make money doing it. Or at least make a tractor payment. <snip>

What type of business?
Small landscaping? Maintaining ROW's? Building concrete foundations? Haying big round bales? Running a sawmill?

As several of the previous posters have indicated one size rarely fits all. If it's going to be suburban lawn and garden type stuff you'll often need a smaller, lighter tractor. My B7610 does stuff like grading, post hole digging, dragging small stuff just fine. But when I need to lift a 2 foot diameter 12 foot long sweetgum log onto my sawmill that 2,000 lbs requires a lot more power. That's where my M4700 comes in.

The M4700 with loaded tires will make a mess of a soft lawn, the B7610 w/ turfs is gentle.

Also maneuverability is important. Just turning my M4700 around on my front lawn takes up most of the lawn

/edit
You posted as I was composing:

If it was just for my property I would definitely be going for a b tractor. But hoping to get some kind of maintenance contract for the road I live on. And think I can stir up some other work clearing brush "lots of scotch broom around here" and general tractor work for people.

Would that "general tractor work" be along the lines of clearing, bush hogging etc? In that case go big.

 

[LD1]

IT dont take a huge tractor or lots of power for road MAINTENANCE. Refurbishing a road, or building a new....yea a big tractor is nice. But just general maintenance and fluff up....not bad with a smaller machine.

That said.....consider your other "potential" work for hire. These brush clearing jobs......are you figuring alot of 5-10 acre jobs? If so, A bigger tractor and bigger mower is nice. Either the L4701 or even the MX series are nice. If you are talking more along the lines of 1-2 acre jobs on average.....then you wont get as much benefit from a larger machine.

Unless you plan on eventually buying implements of your own, you have to size the tractor to the implements used on the 4300 that you have access to. Which is probably a 5' bushhog, 5' box blade, 6' rear blade, 60" tiller, etc. And if thats all you plan on using, a L4701 is gonna be a waste of HP as you wont be taking full advantage of its size.

A 4701 would be a good match for 6-7' bushhog, 7' tiller, 6 or 7'; box blade, 7' rear blade, etc.

 

[jeff9366]

I need to maintain a mile long gravel road.

I recommend a Land Plane Grading Scrape (LPGS) for gravel road work yielding a renewed, uniform look which will satisfy multiple homeowners along the road.

VIDEO: land plane grading scraper - YouTube

And hope I can work clearing brush and Scotch Broom.

For clearing brush and Scotch Broom a Ratchet Rake is hard to beat for effectiveness and value.

VIDEO: ratchet rake brush clearing - YouTube

 

[nybirdman]

I think your first choice is a good one.I use six ft. or smaller implements on my L4240 HSTC(44 hp) and believe it to be about right.Most load (first time in low range) was pulling a full six ft.box blade.I push and eight ft.front snow plow in medium all day long.
Six foot Bush-Hog in the thick stuff is all my tractor wants.

 

[Taters525]

Went to dealer today and sounds like the 4701 is over kill for what I'm looking for. The extra work I'm wanting to pick up on would likely be 1 or 2 acre deals. He suggested the 2501 it's rated just under 25hp so it doesn't have emissions so lower cost and less maintenance.

 

[HEC]

I have both the b2650 and the m5700 . The 2650 does much more than I ever expected but I have 35 acre field to mow every year so the 5700 is my choice for that for one big reason and that is comfort mostly . If you are going to be working on a rougher ground the larger tires on a bigger machine make all the difference in the world for comfort . The 2650 with the bush hog works great on smooth ground but will shake you to pieces on rougher ground or you have to go very slow . No emissions is the reason I chose the 2650 also .

 

[Steppenwolfe]

Went to dealer today and sounds like the 4701 is over kill for what I'm looking for. The extra work I'm wanting to pick up on would likely be 1 or 2 acre deals. He suggested the 2501 it's rated just under 25hp so it doesn't have emissions so lower cost and less maintenance.

L2501 is a great tractor, plenty of power for 5 acres. Heck, I just bought a b2320 for my 5 acre mountain house. You'll be fine.

 

[jeff9366]

The Kubota dealer suggested the L2501.

An excellent recommendation for five acres of residential use. However, underpowered and too light to operate your FIL's implements if implements correctly sized to his 3,000 pound (bare tractor) Deere 4300.

Under 25-horsepower diesel tractors have emission controls, just less complex emission controls than over 25-horsepower diesel tractors ~~~~~at this moment in time.

 

[desh]

You will not be disappointed with the 4701. It is bigger than the other L tractors (2501, 3301, and 3901) but only slightly. Similar maneuverability, and you will never lack for horsepower. Lots more features are standard, but it does cost more. Best of luck in your decision.

 

[MrFoPow]

I figured the 4701 is enough tractor for me plus a little to grow into.

I'm glad I chose it. YMMV.

 

[Fallon]

Weight defines what a tractor can do. HP just lets you do it a bit faster.

I'm on 5 acres & do some side work as well, mostly mowing & driveway grading, some post holes. I have a L3200 that has served me well. Its 32hp & the same frame as the L2501, L3301 & L3901. I hear the L2501 is actually the same engine as mine, just derated to get under the 25hp emissions limit & actually punches above its weight. The 3000 series is a good comprimise between size, power & manuverability.

I am about to sell mine though. I'm upgrading to a cabbed machine. The L3560 is double the weigth of my L3200 & under powered. The L4060 & L4760 are even bigger. I'm debating between the underpowered L3560 that is a bit smaller & the better power to weight ratio on the L4060. They are double the price of the economy ones you are looking at & I'm replacing, but I want to not freeze my *** off or get icesicles in my beard.

Any of the economy Kubotas will do you pretty well. If you are going to be doing a lot of mowing, PTO work or roading, get a higher HP machine for the weight. My L3200 wheezes a lot roading up hills & running my tiller, not to much mowing unless it really heavy brush or grass. If you aren't in a hury the L2501 will do the same job, just a little slower & save you some cash & emissions gear to wory about.

 

[Garandman]

Weight defines what a tractor can do. HP just lets you do it a bit faster.

I'm on 5 acres & do some side work as well, mostly mowing & driveway grading, some post holes. I have a L3200 that has served me well. Its 32hp & the same frame as the L2501, L3301 & L3901. I hear the L2501 is actually the same engine as mine, just derated to get under the 25hp emissions limit & actually punches above its weight.

It is larger displacement (100 vs 91 cu in) and rated at 2200 rpms versus 2800. I bet if you look really carefully you can find those missing HP.....

 

[IslandTractor]

I agree with Newbury and LD1. You really need to define a bit better what sort of commercial work you want to get involved with. If you want to just have a tractor to help people do small chores then a B series tractor on a trailer would be a good idea. If you intend to get into doing lots of bush hogging and heavier work then I'd opt for the MX series. Very big difference in size, cost and capability between B and MX so you really do need to think a bit more precisely about what you want to do before buying. If you cannot be sure then I'd suggest you get a used B series and see how it goes. You can sell it in a year or two for close to what you paid if you decide to upgrade. Don't buy new unless you are pretty sure you know that is the right tractor for the next 5-10 years or you'll take a bath at trade in time.