Which jumper cables

[LittleBill21]

Why dielectric?

keeps corrosion in check

 

[aircommuter]

Jumper cables don’t go bad or discharge sitting around.

 

[LittleBill21]

Jumper cables don’t go bad or discharge sitting around.

im not sure what this response is to, but acid fumes can get in the cable and eat at it long after its been removed from a battery.

 

[Fields_mj]

My last 3 sets have been 20ft 2 gauge, and I've bought them off ebay. The currently run $25 to $30. I've had no problems with them and I've used them to jump my 7.3 powerstroke when the batteries went bad. I've also used them to run a 13k winch (+200 amp continous draw) a few times with no problems. For reference, the truck will normally start off of 1 good 950cca battery so ling as its above freezing. In colder weather, it needs both of its batteries and the GPs pull 200 amps when they are cycling. Ive found that the weak point on jumper cables is the connectors. If they have the normal aligator jaws, you're doing good to get 200 amps because of the minimal contact area. If you need more than that, you need to wire in a plug.

If you really want 2/0 cables, they have 20 sets for around $140.

 

[aircommuter]

im not sure what this response is to, but acid fumes can get in the cable and eat at it long after its been removed from a battery.

It is in response to the lithium jumper batteries which haven’t worked well for my equipment. As far as acid getting into to cables that’s just poor maintenance. Anything can be destroyed that way.

 

[DarkBlack]

Not only does the finer wires allow more flexibility, it allows higher amperage due to electron flow only along the outer surface of each wire and the finer wires have more surface area than heavier wires for the same gauge.

You’re describing “skin effect”, and it’s a physics phenomenon associated with conductors carrying AC.
With 12 volt DC , used with jumper cables, the full coss sectional area of the cable strands, conduct.
The benefit is flexibility only, in this case.

 

[Gord Baker]

I need a new set of jumper cables. I'd like for them to be satisfactory for my MF 1726E as well as automobiles. I will get "heavy duty" ones, as I've had experiences where lighter cables did not do the job when needed.

As I understand, 4-gauge is considered "heavy duty", but 1-gauge is even better for "heavy-duty" equipment. I'm not sure what is meant by "heavy-duty equipment". Do you think that 4-gauge will be satisfactory in all situations for my tractor and automobiles? Or should I go with 1-gauge to be safe?

4/0 ("4 ought") is 0.46 dia COPPER and 1/0 is 0.33" diameter. Do not be fooled by heavy insulation and cheap clamps. If you have availability, 20' or more of Welding Cable will do the job. Go for the 4/0 size. Follow connection instructions carefully.

 

[terramiteman]

I need a new set of jumper cables. I'd like for them to be satisfactory for my MF 1726E as well as automobiles. I will get "heavy duty" ones, as I've had experiences where lighter cables did not do the job when needed.

As I understand, 4-gauge is considered "heavy duty", but 1-gauge is even better for "heavy-duty" equipment. I'm not sure what is meant by "heavy-duty equipment". Do you think that 4-gauge will be satisfactory in all situations for my tractor and automobiles? Or should I go with 1-gauge to be safe?

i use oo welding cables for anything over 10' never have any trouble

 

[panamaguy]

I need a new set of jumper cables. I'd like for them to be satisfactory for my MF 1726E as well as automobiles. I will get "heavy duty" ones, as I've had experiences where lighter cables did not do the job when needed.

As I understand, 4-gauge is considered "heavy duty", but 1-gauge is even better for "heavy-duty" equipment. I'm not sure what is meant by "heavy-duty equipment". Do you think that 4-gauge will be satisfactory in all situations for my tractor and automobiles? Or should I go with 1-gauge to be safe?

I made a set 50 years ago from welding cable and good clamps. Do it one and you never have to do it again

 

[Shenandoah MF1760]

...flux, solder (60/40) "tin" both then solder together....

There's a great deal of evidence that mechanical connections like crimping, if done right, surpasses soldering. Especially on stranded cables where the solder doesn't penetrate fully into the cable potentially leaving areas in the center of the cable free of contact.