OP
quicksandfarmer
Elite Member
I sent a PM.
Where to start with the starter?
- Thread starter quicksandfarmer
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I sent a PM.
erj
Gold Member
Enroute to your Email address
farmerben8
New member
can you post that pdf here please? thanks!
erj
Gold Member
No, the PDF file is a multi-page document.
OP
quicksandfarmer
Elite Member
To disassemble the solenoid you have to desolder the contacts and then resolder them when you put it back together. I did the disassembly, looked at the insides, and decided to buy a new one. It's about $50, it's mission-critical, there didn't seem to be any pieces on the inside to replace and I didn't see anything I could do to make it better. Sure, I probably could have taken it apart, cleaned and lubed it and put it together, and it would have worked for a while. But I've learned you rarely get a durable repair that way.
Although I will say these Chinese tractors do seem to have a lot of pieces where taking it apart, cleaning and reassembling it does fix something.
Although I will say these Chinese tractors do seem to have a lot of pieces where taking it apart, cleaning and reassembling it does fix something.
OP
quicksandfarmer
Elite Member
An update:
This week I finally got to use my tractor for the first time since the beginning of the year. I got a new solenoid from Tommy and put it on. Unfortunately, it didn't solve the problem -- problems, actually. The starter still spins without engaging some of the time. When it does engage, it doesn't always disengage -- it keeps spinning even after the key is turned to the off position and my foot is off the clutch. This time of year my tractor needs a specific starting sequence to start, and it spun for a minute or more until I disconnected the battery. Very disconcerting. When the engine does start the starter will then disengage. My suspicion is that the pinion gear on the starter is getting stuck to the flywheel which keeps the solenoid engaged. The old solenoid was pretty beat up on the inside, I would say that the problem might be worse with the new solenoid.
So now I'm thinking that I need to replace either the pinion gear or the flywheel. Neither one is obviously damaged, just what looks like regular wear. Since the flywheel is a bigger job I'm thinking I'll start with the starter. Is the gear replaceable or do I need a whole starter?
This week I finally got to use my tractor for the first time since the beginning of the year. I got a new solenoid from Tommy and put it on. Unfortunately, it didn't solve the problem -- problems, actually. The starter still spins without engaging some of the time. When it does engage, it doesn't always disengage -- it keeps spinning even after the key is turned to the off position and my foot is off the clutch. This time of year my tractor needs a specific starting sequence to start, and it spun for a minute or more until I disconnected the battery. Very disconcerting. When the engine does start the starter will then disengage. My suspicion is that the pinion gear on the starter is getting stuck to the flywheel which keeps the solenoid engaged. The old solenoid was pretty beat up on the inside, I would say that the problem might be worse with the new solenoid.
So now I'm thinking that I need to replace either the pinion gear or the flywheel. Neither one is obviously damaged, just what looks like regular wear. Since the flywheel is a bigger job I'm thinking I'll start with the starter. Is the gear replaceable or do I need a whole starter?
SPIKER
Elite Member
It sounds to me that there could be some wiring issues, perhaps the Key Switch, or Clutch Switch or ?
Did you ever do the power relay upgrade to the system>?
The Starter SOL power comes thru the KEY and thru the CLUTCH SWITCH and out to the coil of the Starter Sol. The Starter SOL pulls in and sends power to the starter. IF you replaced the Starter Sol then the problem persists perhaps it is in the up stream wiring. that OR the NEW Starter Sol is sticking pulled in keeping power sent to the starter.
This could be from arching in the Contacts of the starter sol or due to Binding of it.
You could wire in a small LED 12vdc at the same power terminal of the starter SOL to troubleshoot it so you can see the LED ON when cranking if the eng keeps cranking and the light is OFF then the SOL is sticking in.
A NEW starter would fix the STICKING IF that is the problem, sounds like there are multiple issues at this time. I would NOT replace the flywheel just because it is worn slightly.
Mark
Did you ever do the power relay upgrade to the system>?
The Starter SOL power comes thru the KEY and thru the CLUTCH SWITCH and out to the coil of the Starter Sol. The Starter SOL pulls in and sends power to the starter. IF you replaced the Starter Sol then the problem persists perhaps it is in the up stream wiring. that OR the NEW Starter Sol is sticking pulled in keeping power sent to the starter.
This could be from arching in the Contacts of the starter sol or due to Binding of it.
You could wire in a small LED 12vdc at the same power terminal of the starter SOL to troubleshoot it so you can see the LED ON when cranking if the eng keeps cranking and the light is OFF then the SOL is sticking in.
A NEW starter would fix the STICKING IF that is the problem, sounds like there are multiple issues at this time. I would NOT replace the flywheel just because it is worn slightly.
Mark
OP
quicksandfarmer
Elite Member
I don't think it's a wiring issue, I think it's in the solenoid. The wire to the solenoid would have to be shorted to positive, or both the clutch switch and key switch would have to be shorting. If that were the case it wouldn't stop when the engine started. I'm pretty sure the drive gear from the starter is sticking to the flywheel.
Coyote machine
Super Member
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Here's my take: you cooked the starter and solenoid. You replaced the solenoid but the problems persist. The fact that when the engine starts the Bendix gear releases would point to the bendix spring being too weak to return the gear back into the starter until it is being run at high revs as the engine begins to run, and not on it's own accord, as it should when the bendix has not been fried. This is assuming there are no shorted wires or partially shorted wires, burnt contacts inside switches at the clutch or keyswitch. The flywheel is the least likely cause. Try a new starter, or rebuild yours, especially the shaft bearing at the input end of the starter. Things like teeth may look good but heat can/will cook bearings, etc.
greg_g
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I think I mentioned this before, you need to verify how much voltage is getting to the solenoid. It needs a good strong 11-12v to throw the pinion with enough force to engage the ring gear. 9-10 volts means intermittent engagement, 7-8 volts will seldom result in engagement. But you can only test the voltage under load, so you need a helper. Sent multimeter for the lowest DC voltage range that will best detect 12 volts. Put the + lead on the solenoid post that is connected to the clutch interlock switch under the left floorboard. Put the - lead on a known good ground. Have the helper crank the engine, note the voltage reading on the meter while cranking.
If it's low, first thing to do is remove negative battery cable from the tractor frame and grind down to bare metal. Reattach ground cable and test again. If it's still low, bypass the clutch interlock switch and try again. If it's still low, you're a candidate for an aftermarket starter relay and larger gauge wiring to the solenoid.
//greg//
If it's low, first thing to do is remove negative battery cable from the tractor frame and grind down to bare metal. Reattach ground cable and test again. If it's still low, bypass the clutch interlock switch and try again. If it's still low, you're a candidate for an aftermarket starter relay and larger gauge wiring to the solenoid.
//greg//
