Where do you park/store your tractor?

   / Where do you park/store your tractor? #61  
Sand and oil??

Yes, they even use it for roads. Oil reduces dust, and doesn't evaporate.

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   / Where do you park/store your tractor? #62  
Mine currently sits in the open weather, and it does annoy me. I haven't had the budget and chance to build a covered area at the new house yet, but I have it on the short list of projects to build a 16x36, 3 bay pool barn, with only roof. And as time and money recover, add atleast side walls, and eventually concrete floor. At the old house, it lived under a car port type extension on the shed.

I want to get the Honda SxS and the Kioti out of the direct sun and rain; the seats on the Honda are not doing so well.

Trucks and car just live uncovered. Its funny, and likely regional; but i dont personally know anyone that parks a vehicle in a garage. Yep, I know people who have garages, but not use them to park vehicles. I know people who have garages, and park under carports; but not in a garage
 
   / Where do you park/store your tractor? #63  
Yes, they even use it for roads. Oil reduces dust, and doesn't evaporate.

View attachment 4370130
Dont know your area; but im assuming they dont spray oil, they spray asphalt emulsions and/or liquid asphalt cement. I know areas used to spray used motor oil back pre 1970s; but i dont think anywhere in the US still does
 
   / Where do you park/store your tractor? #64  
Mine (cabbed) sat outdoors for ten years, built a 24x32'x12' pole barn a couple years ago for it and my sidexside and whatever needs to be out of the weather.Have a 24x32' garage for the other vehicles but only a 7ft.door on that one.
 
   / Where do you park/store your tractor? #65  
Dont know your area; but im assuming they dont spray oil, they spray asphalt emulsions and/or liquid asphalt cement. I know areas used to spray used motor oil back pre 1970s; but i dont think anywhere in the US still does
Soybean oil here.
 
   / Where do you park/store your tractor? #66  
Yes, they even use it for roads. Oil reduces dust, and doesn't evaporate.

View attachment 4370130
I live in an area, where the townships love to oil and chip the roads each summer. The oil softens the asphalt, and traffic presses the chips into the softened substrate, allowing it to stick as a new road surface. It works pretty well when they steamroll it upon application and come back a few days later to sweep up the swarf, but it creates a real mess for neighboring residents when they just leave the leftover excess chips, and don't sweep them up.

I'm surprised to see the mention of sand, instead of chips. You'd think that wouldn't work quite as well.
 
   / Where do you park/store your tractor? #67  
Road base is primed prior to paving (state and county roads, not so much parking lots). You spray with asphalt emulsions, and the sand it. Prior to paving you sweep the excess sand off

Chip Seal; Generally is straight AC (asphaltic cement), then 1/2" granite; traffic rolled; then often, a 2nd coat (in double application chip seal), you spray again the next day, and then 3/8" granite. Too get real fancy, you can spread granite screenings for a very smooth surface.

You are correct that sanded prime can be slick when wet; if you ever get prime on your boots, and some sand, then step on a slick floor....

Chip Seal, its not as good with traction as asphalt; but its not too bad
 
   / Where do you park/store your tractor? #68  
Not to make this about roads; but i know our county engineer though work, prior to him being the county engineer. Good engineer, smart, and has good sense.

So, saw him on side of the road, and pull up to BS with him. It was a minor dirt to pave job, on a county road. I mention to him, "You dont want to hear this, but 6" ball field clay, and double application chip seal, and you double the lane miles 'paved' with the same money". Now, chip seal is fine for some roads, sub 1000 vehicle trips per day (in engineering terms thats not actual vehicles, its a formula where weight factors in as additonal trips), 45 mph or less, and it lasts. High speed, high traffic, NO. Advantage is, it starts getting bad, you can do another application of chip seal, micro surface (if it doesnt have major wheel ruts), or tack and pave over it with convential asphalt overlay.
 
   / Where do you park/store your tractor? #69  
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Built a 10.5x28 lean to. Could only fit a 4:1 pitch and with topography, snow will be a little issue, as there is no real place to stack, so it will be up against the side. Tractor fits it far left with ROPS down. Flail mower on stand, and stump grinder on stand below it. UTV will fit with plow in front of tractor. Still trying to figure out a door system.
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   / Where do you park/store your tractor? #70  
over the years i've realized that when parking one's tractor (whether under roof or not), the location should be at least few hundred feet from any brush dense thicket area where rodents abound. they like that cover and will maraud the machine if close buy

they tend to avoid open spaces (& daylight if you keep your hood open)
 
   / Where do you park/store your tractor? #71  
I'm surprised to see the mention of sand, instead of chips. You'd think that wouldn't work quite as well.

Might not. If sand is what you have to start with and you don't have any chips, you only have to add oil though.
 
   / Where do you park/store your tractor? #72  
When not in use, I park my tractor in a carport with a gravel floor. It's a Kubota B2320 that I bought new in 2014. I am starting to notice quite a bit of rust on the tractor and am wondering if this is normal for being storing on a dirt floor, or has Kubota paint quality gone downhill.

Would love to hear how you all store your tractors and your issues & solutions to rusting or preventing rust.
We keep our Kubota in our garage year round, mostly, we live in Iowa now. My husband has left it out 3 times in the rain, but the paint still looks good and no rust so far. We lived in Arizona before and kept it under a metal shade. We also have a 1966 Oliver that belonged to his dad, that has been in the garage or barn since 1970 and looks almost new.
 
   / Where do you park/store your tractor? #73  
Under a shed roof on the side of a barn on some thin gravel. It's a 2011 and no rust so far. Is yours getting wet and not drying for some reason? Or maybe you just got one with a bd paint job.My problem is keeping mice out of it. They have chewed up the dash wiring twice.
 
   / Where do you park/store your tractor? #74  
Mice were a problem for us in Arizona , too. We were told to use mothballs or peppermint on cotton balls, we used the mothballs and it helped a lot. They don't like strong smells. We didn't have that issue in Iowa for some reason.
 
   / Where do you park/store your tractor? #75  
Under a shed roof on the side of a barn on some thin gravel. It's a 2011 and no rust so far. Is yours getting wet and not drying for some reason? Or maybe you just got one with a bd paint job.My problem is keeping mice out of it. They have chewed up the dash wiring twice.
I know that story. They chewed just at the harness. Dash light were all going crazy. We hand wrapped each wire and still working. I keep the hood up when I park now. Kubota B3200.
 
   / Where do you park/store your tractor? #76  
Our 2006 Kubota came to us when 12 years old. Not sure where/how it was stored before then.

Since, it's been generally parked in our barn on horse mats over gravel in the summer, and on concrete in our small shed in the winter. While I do brush off the heaviest snow after snowblowing, there is generally a fair amount still left in crevices etc. The shed is unheated, so depending on the weather some/all of the snow may eventually melt (well, it's all melted by April or so). There is no obvious visible rust, although I did break the small rear lower glass in the cab this summer and I noticed a little bit around the welds on the tabs that hold the lower edge. And of course where scrapes/rubs have worn the paint away...
 
   / Where do you park/store your tractor? #77  
Would love to hear how you all store your tractors and your issues & solutions to rusting or preventing rust.
I store my John Deere in a 35x70 barn, half concrete, half gravel. With my 329BB 61” Grasshopper. Yep, gotta have somewhere for the mud to fall off the tractor if I can’t pressure wash it. I’m not a fair weather farmer so yes it’s seen rain, snow, hot, cold!! Now my bush-hog, box scraper, forks, tiller, land plane, all sit outside.
 
   / Where do you park/store your tractor?
  • Thread Starter
#78  
Here's a picture of my fully restored hydraulic lines. I am also going to apply CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor to prevent future corrosion on the underside of my tractor. It is supposed to be one of the best out there. We will see.

IMG_6270.JPG
 
   / Where do you park/store your tractor? #79  
I seem to be in the minority, running heavy 3/8" chains on my rears? Nearly all I've seen here are 1/4", like the weight of car tire chains.

I'll admit, 3/8" ladder chains make for an awfully rough ride on any hard surface, even in 2-link configuration. But I basically never run them on asphalt, they're only for rare occasions when I need to go into deep mud or can't manage to time the towing of my wood trailer across the back yard between snowstorms. Those heavy chains are such a PITA to handle, that I'll go out in the dark to move firewood the night before a storm, if it helps me avoid needing to chain up the next day.
 
   / Where do you park/store your tractor? #80  
In a barn that was built around 140 years ago. Field stone and mortar foundation, concrete floor, hay mow with 2000 bales of hay overhead. The Case and IH are in the lower part where the cows used to be when we had cows, but the JD won't fit there because the cab is too high. In the winter it sits upstairs next to the hay mow, with bucket and snowblower attached. In the summer it sits outside because it would be in the way otherwise, but it is in use daily, anyway.
The JD is 23 years old, but spent its early life with a town highway department, where they probably used it to load salt/sand onto trucks in the winter. It had rusted out spots here and there when we got it.
The IH is 55 or so years old and had been repainted when we got it in the early '80s. The paint job has held up well, but the steps where you put your feet have rusted out and been replaced. The rear rims have both been replaced, the victims of liquid ballast leaks over the years. It was our plow tractor for a few years, with a grader blade on the back. The blade rusted out considerably quicker than the tractor, and today is pretty much useless.
The Case was my grandfather's tractor, and is 73 years old. Back in the day we had cows in the barn, and manure was removed and spread on a daily basis. This Case was our plow tractor, and was parked in front of the doors with a homemade plow mounted on the front, so it had to be moved out to allow its older brother out with the spreader. That tractor cleaned us out after the Blizzard of '93, the "Storm of the Century," as well as the Blizzard of '66, the storm by which all other storms are judged by those who lived through it. There is surface rust all over the Case, but the only thing that rusted out was the fenders, something Cases of that era were infamous for doing.
 

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