Wheels for YM155D

[Jtullis13]

So back to the turf tire dilemma, I think I am going to order the rims from Hoye, but the bigger question is the tire size. From an older post in 2002 it appears that a member put on LT265/75r16 truck tires on his original wheels, but no reports of any issues after that. That is my same plan and put 155/80r12 on the front unless someone would advise against doing this.

 

[Jtullis13]

Well I finally pulled the trigger and got different wheels and tires, that way I can keep my R1s and use them when I am in the garden or other food plots. Here are the pics of what I have. Hoye wheels with LT275/75r16 on the rear and 155/80r12 on the front. I also filled all 4 of them with Rimgaurd for extra weight and better pavement traction for this winter when I am using a 3PH snowblower, which I still need to find... The tires are pretty stiff since the back ones are 10 ply, I may take a little air out to give it some more cushion, but since they are LT 10 ply it might not make much difference. I did run it last night in 4wd. I didn't notice anything different with it than how it was before. There is about 2 inch difference in height on the rear from the original R1 tires, and the fronts look to be about the same.

 

[rScotty]

Well I finally pulled the trigger and got different wheels and tires, that way I can keep my R1s and use them when I am in the garden or other food plots. Here are the pics of what I have. Hoye wheels with LT275/75r16 on the rear and 155/80r12 on the front. I also filled all 4 of them with Rimgaurd for extra weight and better pavement traction for this winter when I am using a 3PH snowblower, which I still need to find... The tires are pretty stiff since the back ones are 10 ply, I may take a little air out to give it some more cushion, but since they are LT 10 ply it might not make much difference. I did run it last night in 4wd. I didn't notice anything different with it than how it was before. There is about 2 inch difference in height on the rear from the original R1 tires, and the fronts look to be about the same.

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Looks very nice. I'm sure it will be more stable, too - and in my mind that is the most important advantage of all.
The size difference in the tires won't affect the tractor unless you use it in 4WD. There's no point in inventing a problem, but do pay attention in 4wd - at least in the beginning.

When changing to an front/rear size ratio that may not match the tractor's internal gearing, it just makes sense to pay attention and even be conservative by not using 4wd unless it is on a surface that will allow a tire to slip.
Slipping a tire helps because the slipping is actually taking any torsional stress off the drivetrain by allowing the shaft to "unwind".

You will know if the tire size is building up too much differential stress in 4WD because it will be difficult to shift out of 4wd after driving it that way. All 4wd are a little sticky that way, but if yours becomes excessively difficult to shift, consider only using 4wd in slippery surfaces like snow - never on something high traction like asphalt pavement or sticky dirt. In fact, that's a pretty good way to treat any tractor 4wd.
Good luck, I sure like those YM155/165 tractors.
rScotty

 

[Jtullis13]

Thanks rScotty. Before I decided to put these tires on I compared Hoye's turf tires rolling circumference and revs per mile with the tires that I put on here. There was a 4 rev per mile difference, so I figured it would be ok to use this set up. I do appreciate all your input on this matter though because I don't want to miss something and mess up the tractor.

I too like this YM155, I am so glad I got it.

I just need to figure out the snowblower for it now. I have been looking at the Woodmaxx SB48. It is on the heavy side of snowblowers but I think this 155 can handle it.

 

[clemsonfor]

That looks cool!

 

[Jtullis13]

Thanks Clem, I think it looks pretty cool too. I need to let a little air out of the tires, not much give compared to the R1s or actual turf tires. But this will surely be more stable and provided good traction on the pavement this winter.

 

[clemsonfor]

Heck you can probably safely run down around 10PSI in those i would bet, maybe even less with as little weight as will be on each rear.

 

[Jtullis13]

Heck you can probably safely run down around 10PSI in those i would bet, maybe even less with as little weight as will be on each rear.

I actually took the rears down to 30 PSI and the fronts to 20 PSI last night. It does ride better, but I think I am going to take the rears down more yet, probably to 15 PSI, it should ride smoother and have a little wider footprint too.

 

[clemsonfor]

Atfullratedpressure one of those tires can support the whole weight of tractor and implement probably. I know 3 is too much and I'm sure you can safely go below 20. That whole tractor probably doesn't weigh 1500 pounds if it were and even split between all tires your only talking less than 450 pounds per tire of just tractor weight. The filled tires will automatically make them stiffer too.

 

[rScotty]

I actually took the rears down to 30 PSI and the fronts to 20 PSI last night. It does ride better, but I think I am going to take the rears down more yet, probably to 15 PSI, it should ride smoother and have a little wider footprint too.

I ran my YM165D with OEM turf tires (Goodyears) on turf rims front and rear, a box blade with a hundred pounds of additional weight, and a yanmar loader up front. .
Typical pressure was 12 to 15 for the rear tires and 25 to 30 for the fronts. The tires lasted over 30 years with no problems. I ran the rears low to soften the ride. Side hill stability is important where I live, but the turf tires were fine at that pressure. The reason for running so much pressure in the fronts was to ease the steering effort when the bucket was full.
I do not put any fluid weight in any of my tires..., but I do use chains on ice and hard-packed snow. It generally takes a season of cutting and fitting new chains before I get a set to fitting properly.
rScotty

 

[Jtullis13]

I let the rears down to 15 psi, but haven't driven it yet. I will today and let you know how it rides.

 

[clemsonfor]

Filled tires make all the difference in the world in pulling power on these little tractors. I didn't think that the little bit of fluid I could put in these tires would make a difference, your only talking about something like 180 pounds of water between both rears. But the real world pulling power when I have this dish harrow buried was night and day. I wish I did it years earlier. I used winter blend windshield washer fluid cause I was worries about straight water freezing in the few random extreme cold snaps we have and because if I got a leak I didn't want to be leaking Ethelene Glycol all over killing my pets.

 

[Jtullis13]

Filled tires do make a huge difference. I can't remember how much weight it added to my 2110d turf tires, but it did add 110 pounds per rear tire on my 155d. I drove it today & at 15psi it was very nice ride. So this winter should be better when plowing or snow blowing with it.

 

[rScotty]

Filled tires do make a huge difference. I can't remember how much weight it added to my 2110d turf tires, but it did add 110 pounds per rear tire on my 155d. I drove it today & at 15psi it was very nice ride. So this winter should be better when plowing or snow blowing with it.

Do you think that the difference in traction is due to the added tractor weight, or to the fact that the weight is in the tires? How about wheel weights?
rScotty

 

[Jtullis13]

Do you think that the difference in traction is due to the added tractor weight, or to the fact that the weight is in the tires? How about wheel weights?
rScotty

The difference in traction is due to the weight in the tires, and having wider tires helps too with having a lager foot print on the ground. Wheel weights do help, but also add strain to your axle because the weight it pushing on the axle which does add weight to the tractor and helps with traction. Fluid in the tires is a better ballast because all that weight is directly put on the ground at the foot print of the tire and removes the weight strain on the axle itself.

I was able to figure out what added weight my 2210d has per tire with Rimguard. Each rear tire has an added 332 pounds, so 664 pounds between both of them add tremendous amount of traction at the ground for what ever my needs would be either in dirt or on snowy pavement.

 

[winston1]

Wow, whatever you put in there must be heavy. Assuming you have the 9.5-24 rear tires the chart shows 167# with water. Liquid Tire Ballast Chart.

 

[Jtullis13]

Wow, whatever you put in there must be heavy. Assuming you have the 9.5-24 rear tires the chart shows 167# with water. Liquid Tire Ballast Chart.

Winston the weight I quoted was for my turf tires on my 2210d. Those tires are 13.6x16. I do have my R1s that have Rimguard in them too. They weigh in at 182#s per tire. Rimguard is almost 11 pounds per gallon, that is the heaviest fluid you will find for ballast. It is also fairly inexpensive and has no negative effects on the wheel, tire, environment, freeze resistant to -35 degrees and won't irritate your skin if it comes into contact with you. I have a dealer 30 minutes from where I live so it is a no brainer for me.

 

[winston1]

Ooooohhhhh. Was thinking ag tires. I put antifreeze in my old 2002D rears and later changed to weights. Weight does make a difference. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/252891-concrete-wheel-weights.html?highlight=

 

[Jtullis13]

Winston that was a pretty cool idea you came up with, and looked pretty cool. I am sure you notice a huge difference in performance compared to how it was with out the weights. Does help if you get another hole in a tire, you wont have to mess with the fluid. I will keep my fingers crossed that it won't happen to me. Rimguard will seal up small holes but not a large one. Overall the added weight does make a huge difference though. Nice write up on that Winston!

 

[rScotty]

Wheel weights do help, but also add strain to your axle because the weight it pushing on the axle which does add weight to the tractor and helps with traction. Fluid in the tires is a better ballast because all that weight is directly put on the ground at the foot print of the tire and removes the weight strain on the axle itself.

Weight helps traction, but that's just not right about wheel weights putting any significant extra load on the axle.

Weight on the body of the tractor, loader, or 3pt can put some extra weight on the axle & bearings because the axle bearings are offset from where the hub attaches to the axle. But wheel weights are typically bolted to the same hub that also supports the wheel and tire (and liquid).
So the forces travel through the hub to the same location on the axle whether those forces originally came from wheel weights or tire liquid.
With either tire fluid or wheel weights, any lever arm between the CG and the hub attachment to the axle is very short, so no significant moment is created - and hence no significant stress.
rScotty