Thomas
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2000
- Messages
- 31,862
- Location
- Lebanon,NH.
- Tractor
- Kubota B2650HSD w/Frontloader & CC LTX1046 & Craftman T2200 lawn mower.
Old 3pt. hitch arm that been repair.
What's it for?
- Thread starter aczlan
- Start date
- Views: 3393
OP
aczlan
Good Morning
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2008
- Messages
- 17,540
- Tractor
- Kubota L3830GST, B7500HST, BX2660. Formerly: Case 480F LL, David Brown 880UE
Close, its a 3 point weld on repair end welded into a piece of C channel with some pieces of flat plate to space it out so that it fits snugly into the hydraulic cylinder.
Aaron Z
Fallon
Super Member
The main use is grading. You can fine tune blade angle on the fly. With a quick hitch I can hitch up to & drop an impliment without getting off the tractor. Handy for extra impliment height over rough terrain or loading on a steep trailer. I leave mine in float when mowing. Really I wouldnt own a tractor without TnT it's so freaking handy.
BukitCase
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2012
- Messages
- 2,756
- Location
- Albany OR
- Tractor
- Case 580B, Long 460, Allis-Chalmers 160
"I wouldnt own a tractor without TnT it's so freaking handy. " - I couldn't agree more - I also found that when just moving implements around, it's much less of a PITA to just extend the toplink and pick 'em up with ONLY the top hook.
That's ALSO the only way I can get my older Gannon 7' box to work with the QH - I found a hook position that lets the tip of the top hook stick up just a bit more than the draw hooks (relative to that implement), so the odd angle of the tower on the Gannon (with the toplink fully extended) just clears the member just BELOW the top pin of the Gannon - so I back into the top pin with the toplink extended, raise the hitch just enough to keep from pulling out, then retract the toplink so it pulls the tractor back into the Gannon - sometimes takes a couple tries, but if I don't lower the hitch any more than it takes to clear the bottom pins, once the toplink pulls the bottoms into alignment a quick raise of the hitch and I'm there.
I used a 10" stroke cylinder for the tilt link, it gives me just over 15" either side of level across the width of the 7' Gannon... Steve
That's ALSO the only way I can get my older Gannon 7' box to work with the QH - I found a hook position that lets the tip of the top hook stick up just a bit more than the draw hooks (relative to that implement), so the odd angle of the tower on the Gannon (with the toplink fully extended) just clears the member just BELOW the top pin of the Gannon - so I back into the top pin with the toplink extended, raise the hitch just enough to keep from pulling out, then retract the toplink so it pulls the tractor back into the Gannon - sometimes takes a couple tries, but if I don't lower the hitch any more than it takes to clear the bottom pins, once the toplink pulls the bottoms into alignment a quick raise of the hitch and I'm there.
I used a 10" stroke cylinder for the tilt link, it gives me just over 15" either side of level across the width of the 7' Gannon... Steve
Rustyiron
Super Member
Jaxs it's one of those things that once you have one, you don't know how you ever got by without one :thumbsup:
