Im glad someone asked I was thinking the same thing.:thumbsup:
What would you look for in your next tractor?
- Thread starter Wyld Bill
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Im glad someone asked I was thinking the same thing.:thumbsup:
George2615
Super Member
You have to check the power beyond block. (see attached). Remove item 6 carefully as it is under spring pressure and you will have hydraulic fluid come out once removed. check for item 8 (shims). Each shim is .1mm (.004 inch). Item 7 is an O-ring. See step 8, by adding or subtracting shims will increase or decrease the system pressure.
In my case my loader would not pick up its rated capacity. When I took mine apart I found no shims had ever been installed at the factory. I made my own shims from flat washers and installed the equivalent of 6 shims. Reinstall item 6 and top off hydraulic fluid.
I am not responsible for anyone who does this procedure and damages their tractor. I am only stating what I found and did to my own tractor. After my changes I was able to lift a 1300 lb. garage lift off the back of a truck.
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Gary Fowler
Super Star Member
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- Jun 23, 2008
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- 11,917
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- Bismarck Arkansas
- Tractor
- 2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010
My LS P7010 C has all of the items on the list, except TNT which I dont think you will ever see as standard equipment on a tractor, plus a few more as standard like triple rear remotes, hand operated parking brake (although if it was mounted a bit off the floor it would be easier to bend over and pull up). No one mentioned a tilt steering wheel in their wish list but maybe all tractors have them now. Lights on the Cab model are great additions to the front lights for night time FEL work, along with turn signals. I cant say that getting in and out of a cab is that much more difficult that no cab, just have to push down on the door latch and the door opens itself. Having a cooled and heated cab is the main reason for my new tractor purchase and to me is worth double the price paid.
Gary Fowler
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2008
- Messages
- 11,917
- Location
- Bismarck Arkansas
- Tractor
- 2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010
I forgot to mention some contraindications on the wish list,(1) push button PTO which my tractor has is not something that I would wish for as LAWALL mentioned (2) along with easy access fuel tank which my LS has also but I would prefer it to be behind the cab or in front rather than low to the ground where it could get punctured. I can fuel with a pump easier than I can armor plate the fuel tank for protection.
Robert_in_NY
Super Member
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- Case-IH Farmall 45A, Kubota M8540 Narrow, New Holland TN 65, Bobcat 331, Ford 1920, 1952 John Deere M, Allis Chalmers B, Bombardier Traxter XT, Massey Harris 81RC and a John Deere 3300 combine, Cub Cadet GT1554
Gary Fowler said:
Working in woods, vineyards and orchards is where you notice a cab becoming an issue. Open fields and other open areas it isn't.
Cool I'll have to check that out. When I first got my tractor it seemed to have lots of lifting/breakout power. Then it seemed like it wasn't nearly as good. It doesn't bog the engine down or anything, it just plain won't lift at all with much of a heavy load like wet dirt or a bucket of sand. But the strange thing is if I work the hydrostatic drive pedal while holding "up" on the loader lever, it suddenly gets a quick boost of power. ???
Alos what is the "O" & "S" on the block all about??
AchingBack
Veteran Member
George, thanks for this valuable info. I am not aware of the function a shim plays. And, I am not about to go through the procedure you did. I believe my block must have been correctly assembled. Using my pin on loader forks, I was able to unload 13, 90lb sacks of redicrete from a flat bed truck at 6'. Including the substantial pallet, I estimate the load to have been about 1200 lb. I had my Bush Hog on the back for ballast, and was praying my tractor would come through a tough assignment.
Just make sure your loads are concentrated toward the pins. I had to restack the sacks of redimix before I could lift the load.
LAWALLSTRACTOR
Veteran Member
Be careful playing with the relief valve shims. If you do, you should have a hydraulic guage that will plug into one of the loader quick couplings, and I would definately not go over 2500 to 2600 PSI.
On adding loader lift capacity..
Most manufacturers mate the loader capacity to their front axle capacity.
If you mate a different brand fel that has additional capacity and you break your front axle and it WILL NOT be a warranty item.
Just saying.....there may be a reason for your lift capacity.
Most manufacturers mate the loader capacity to their front axle capacity.
If you mate a different brand fel that has additional capacity and you break your front axle and it WILL NOT be a warranty item.
Just saying.....there may be a reason for your lift capacity.
George2615
Super Member
Just a note to those who replied to the post on my loader lift modification. It never seemed to lift to full capacity from the day I bought it. I'd scoop in a load of gravel or dirt and have to dump almost half before I could lift. I thought that the loader was doing all it could do until 2 years later. A friend bought the same tractor (a 2006, mines a 2004). I was helping him at his place running his tractor and was amazed at how much more his loader would lift than mine. I decided to read through the service manual and check mine by putting weight in the bucket to see what it would lift. It stopped lifting way below the loader specs which led me to check the shims. That's when I found out the factory forgot to put any in mine. System pressure was way lower than it should have been. I did use a high pressure gauge (0-5000PSI) when I added my shims.