What vehicle do you pull with (need advice)?

[RomeK2]

I have a BX 25. I used it only at my property. I have been looking around for a used truck so I can have the ability transport my tractor. I have a trailer I can borrow for the time being. I believe it's 12 feet long/dual axle with hydraulic brakes (maybe 16'long). I remember 1500 lb gross trailer weight (empty).

I will eventually buy my own trailer.

I have a very limited budget. I would like to spend: $800-$3000 for a pickup style truck. I've looked on craigslist and manage to printout 30 vehicles that fit the criteria. The trucks range from year 1997 to 1968 (13yo-42yo). The makes/model are primarily Ford Chevy and GMC, mostly 2wd pickups. There are a couple of blazers and suburbans and Utility trucks also.

I would pull maybe 6-12 times a year, if that, and maye 20 miles at most. This would be for friendly favors and maybe a couple of side jobs.

Please chime in on any or all of the following:

1. What do you use for your tractor (vehicle, tractor, trailer)?

2. What vehicle should I pull with for my BX 25? and trailer type size?

3. What is the smallest vehicle/trailer I can use safely?

4. 4 WD vs 2 WD?

 

[CurlyDave]

I have a 2000 F-150, 5.4 liter V-8, and routinely pull 6000-8000 lb. trailers.

While I have 4 WD, the only time I use it is to go up my steep gravel driveway. If you keep on pavement and keep out of the mountains, 2 WD should be OK, although if I had a choice of 4 WD, I would spend a little extra to get it.

I do not tow my tractor, as this would overload my truck. At some time in the future, when my personal economy improves, I would like to have a truck and trailer capable of towing my tractor.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I have a 16' dual axle trailer. I've pulled B's, BX's and an L3240 FEL on it with an Avalanche with no problem. Sold the Avalanche and now pull the trailer and BX2660 FEL and F2680 with a Chevy Traverse with towing package. I also pulled the BX2660, FEL, MMM and tiller with a 2003 V6 Dodge Dakota and was not happy with the results. It did it but the Dodge was struggling. The Dodge pulled the F2680 fairly well so I'll recommend a V8 whatever to pull your BX25. Not saying a V6 won't do it because the Dodge did but I won't pull anything that heavy again with the Dodge unless I have to.

 

[Egon]

Consider a 3/4 ton 4x4 pickup that is in roadable shape. Make does not matter. The four wheel option is not a necessity but sure may come in handy. You may want to add an extra rear leaf if the back sags.It may also require a Load equalizer.

Trailer from 17 to 20 feet, 7K to 10K range. Probably a bumper pull but the goose neck version will tow better.


My anemic 96 dodge tows a 20 ft bumper pull trailer. Air bags and load equalizer also.

 

[PHILIP8N]

Watch your weights. Get a manual and understand GVWR, GAWR, GCVWR, and tounge weight, for truck and trailer. This is all explained quite well in any truck manual. For my truck, I have a GCVWR of 15,000 pounds, and I am getting close to it with below set up. I am slightly exceedeing max tounge weight in attached picture. I have a 2004 F250SD with 5.4 and 4 speed auto, electric brake controller. Triailer is a 16' + 2' beaver tail with a GVWR of 10,000 pounds, 16" wheels, 6000 pound axles, electric brakes both axles. Think about how long your BX25TLB is, how you will position on trailer to distribute weight, and how you will tie down. A longer trailer may be required. Once you get everything together, go to a commercial truck stop where you can weigh each axle so you know where you are at, loaded and unloaded. Philip.

 

[herringchoker]

Philip8N gives some excellent advice.
My experience (sorry for being long-winded):

I have a B7800 with FEL, cab and loaded rear tires. I estimate it to weigh 3,500 - 4,000 lbs. I carry it on a 16 ft., 7,000 lb. GVW equipment trailer that weighs 1,500 lbs. It has electric brakes on both axles. I don't have any major hills to tackle and my normal trip is 50 miles, twice a year. I also use the trailer for hauling firewood.

I towed this setup with a 1979 Ford F-100 that I upgraded by adding 2 extra leaves to the rear springs and installing heavy duty variable rate front springs. The truck has a 300 cu. in. 6 cylinder engine and a Warner T-18, 4-speed transmission with deep low gear (which I installed in place of the original 3-speed.) This truck pulled the trailer (loaded with the tractor or 2 cords of firewood) amazingly well; no sway at all even without a weight distributing hitch. The Ford big 6 was no ball of fire, but it has amazing low end torque.

Due to a bad case of the rusties, I have just replaced "Old Reliable" with a low mileage 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 with the 4.8 litre V8 and the infamous 4L60E overdrive automatic. Its maximum tow rating is 7,000 lbs. I decided not to beef up the suspension on this truck, but have purchased a weight distributing hitch instead and have installed a new trailer brake controller. I am considering adding an auxiliary transmission cooler. I haven't pulled the trailer with it yet, but its first job in the next few weeks will be to haul the old Ford (empty weight about 4,000 lbs.) to my woodlot. I hope it handles the job as well as the old Ford did.

Good luck with finding a setup that will work for you.

 

[radman1]

Your cheapest and probably most common set up will be a 16' 7000# utility or flat bed trailer. Used with one set of brakes will cost from $1200-$1400 but would not be surprised to find a decent one for $1000 or less.
1/2 ton, 2WD pickup would be your best choice for the money. Will need a brake controller so figure that in your budget. Take your time and you will find what you need for the $. My best buy purchases are items that I don't need now but act quickly when I find them.

 

[radioman]

I already had the s-10 blazer, I bought the 16' trailer and it works just fine with this setup. Since the engine is only 4.3L, I have to be mindful when approaching the hills, other wise it does just fine on flat roads. I added the weight distrubution bars and sway bar and it makes a world of difference with this short truck.

I suspect that since you are on a limited budget, you may be able to find a simple 2wd full size pickup truck for cheap that will suit your needs for now.

 

[TripleR]

The only "tractors" I haul are my BX2660 or John Deere and I use either a 12' or 16' trailer with my 06 Tundra. You have received some pretty good advice so far. Based on money, I would recommend something along the lines of an F150 or its equivalent with 16 foot dual axle trailer with brakes.

I have access to bigger trucks and trailers and have hauled big stuff in the past, but don't do it enough to feel comfortable anymore, so if my bigger tractors need to go somewhere I pay someone.

 

[wykubotaguy]

I have a 89 f250 w 7.3l diesel and banks turbo. It pulls a 16ft tandem axle tilt bed w/ one set of brakes. The tractor is l3400 fel w/ 5ft king kutter that weighs 690#. The l3400 has loaded rears and I would guess it weighs w fel around 4000-4500#. So w trailer, truck probably tows around 7500# with no problem. I also tow a 32ft gooseneck w 4 tons and only bog down on steep hills (1000ft climb in 1.5 miles). So this works great for me.

 

[crazyal]

I'm not sure if you are handy but an out side the box option is to get an old school bus and convert it to a flat bed. Of course I would only do this if your only plans are to drive it when moving your tractor. Around here they are not too hard to find and if they have a gas engine they are priced cheap. They usually are internationals with a 345 or 392, both are good engines.

 

[jimbo64]

1985 f150-4wd

 

[midtnvol]

2004 FX4 F150 Supercab with a 6'4" X10' trailer. I can just get the 1850 and one implement on it and shut the tailgate. When I'm loading the trailer I have negative tongue weight until I get well up on to the trailer. I also have a 2001 Ford Escape 4X4 that I have towed with and it pulls fine except that when I load the trailer it picks up the rear tires slightly. I always make sure I'm on level ground and it is also front wheel drive so it's not too dangerous and I never tow over two miles and never up or down large slopes. I have ample tongue weight when pulled forward on the trailer. I need a longer trailer.

 

[tdearstine]

I picked up a 1995 3500 4dr GMC longbed 4wd for 5 grand, its got the 6.5 turbo diesel and only 145000 miles, they also came with 454's and 350's, all great towing vehicles, the diesels are not well wanted because the Duramax is so much better, but I am a 20yr former GM technician and I always like the simplicity of the 6.5 Diesel, I put my BX in my livestock trailer to tow it to where I need to get it, it fits in perfectly, its a 14 ft semi enclosed trailer, thats one reason i got a BX, was that it fit in my barn good and in the trailer.

 

[dodge man]

I tow my BX2350 on a 16' trailer rated for 7000lbs total, think car trailer. My truck is a 2007 Dodge Ram 4x4 with the Hemi and 3.92 rear gears.

People are listing 3/4 ton trucks and it seems like a recomendation. My truck is over kill for towing a BX. My guess is that your tractor with the FEL, backhoe and a MMM would weight less than 3000lbs. Throw in the weight of a trailer of 2000 lbs or a little less, and just about any 1/2 ton will tow that.

In my area, 75% of the trucks are 4x4, but I live in the heart of farm country. This can make 2 wheel drive hard to find, but they tend to go for pretty low dollars. Unless you see yourself getting into mud or snow alot, go for 2 wheel drive and it will save you several thousand dollars. If you would get into the snow and mud, 4 wheel drive can be a must have.

 

[ModMech]

'93 F-250 4x2, 7.3L IDI, 5 speed.

It will safely pull anything we can load onto the 16' x 7' trailer we have.

 

[JakeBrake]

I use a surplus DWFP (Department of Wildlife, Fisheries, and Parks) truck. This is a no-frills 1995 GMC SWB K1500 with a 350 cu. in. V8 engine and 4X4. I use Maxxis Buckshot Mudder tires. My trailer is a custom built 16 ft. model with two 3500 lb. axles with electric brakes. I use this rig to haul my L3830 and bush hog the 35 miles between my my house and our property via back roads. The truck pulls the loaded trailer with no problem. I would not want to try this in the Colorado Rockies. Gas mileage ranges between 10-14 MPG.

I put the truck into low range 4X4 as soon as I leave the paved public road. Personally, I would not want a farm truck without 4X4.

GM sells this model truck to agencies all over the country. Surplus trucks should be available all over the country. In this part of the country these surplus trucks have a great reputation and command a premium price. Another good thing is that it came equipped with plenty of dents and scratches so you don't worry about a few more.

 

[RomeK2]

Thank you all for such good advice. I will have to backtrack and reread the technical stuff above. I've missed a lot since I took a little break for the holiday weekend.

I've been looking at several '88-'96 ford 150's, a '88 chevy 1500 4x4 and one '94 ford 250. Price range 1-3k. There are some good buys out there and some bad ones too. AND there are the scammers. I'm gonna skip that subject.

Anyway so far the 250 is on the top of my list. It's asking only $1800. I think I can get that one for 12-1500. It's pretty good shape for the money. I like the size and it has lots of power, 7.5 v8 automatic.

Any 'decent' f150 has been in the 2500-3000 range.

The '88 chevy I think is too pricy for the age at 3k.

Can anyone chime in on automatic vs manual transmission for towing purposes?

 

[RomeK2]

Consider a 3/4 ton 4x4 pickup that is in roadable shape. Make does not matter. The four wheel option is not a necessity but sure may come in handy. You may want to add an extra rear leaf if the back sags.It may also require a Load equalizer.

Trailer from 17 to 20 feet, 7K to 10K range. Probably a bumper pull but the goose neck version will tow better.


My anemic 96 dodge tows a 20 ft bumper pull trailer. Air bags and load equalizer also.

Please explain what a load equalizer and air bags are.

 

[RomeK2]

Watch your weights. Get a manual and understand GVWR, GAWR, GCVWR, and tounge weight, for truck and trailer. This is all explained quite well in any truck manual. For my truck, I have a GCVWR of 15,000 pounds, and I am getting close to it with below set up. I am slightly exceedeing max tounge weight in attached picture. I have a 2004 F250SD with 5.4 and 4 speed auto, electric brake controller. Triailer is a 16' + 2' beaver tail with a GVWR of 10,000 pounds, 16" wheels, 6000 pound axles, electric brakes both axles. Think about how long your BX25TLB is, how you will position on trailer to distribute weight, and how you will tie down. A longer trailer may be required. Once you get everything together, go to a commercial truck stop where you can weigh each axle so you know where you are at, loaded and unloaded. Philip.

Great advice. Thanks. Will commercial truck stop be able to tell tongue weight as well?