Buying Advice What SHOULD I buy? Many questions from a newbie...

[flusher]

TLAs (Sheesh I typo'd the TLA!!!)...

PS - Barn? Do I need one of those too?

Barn? Sure, why not?
But, seriously, an equipment shed is usually a good idea. Here's the 20x28 ft shed I built a few years ago for some of my haying equipment.



I keep my good tractor(s) under a 20 x 36 ft carport (9 ft sides). I'll add sides to that carport one of these days.

 

[foreman Etexas]

and I appreciate it!!!!

PS - I have a new thread asking about AG vs Industrial tires. I need to decide pretty quick. what is your 2 cents?

David

Like he said just going to be personal pref.!!! If it stays wet,pulling trees,etc. would say R1s but if not would say R4s,they give you a wider stance(stability), easier on the lawn(for those around the house projects)im sure they will do a good joob in the dirt....

 

[k0ua]

and I appreciate it!!!!

PS - I have a new thread asking about AG vs Industrial tires. I need to decide pretty quick. what is your 2 cents?

David

OMG NO!!

I was hoping to avoid this.:laughing::laughing:

Um...(quietly) I have R4's (industrial) umm... the "compromise" tire. There is no best, only trade off's. You pays your money, you takes your choice.

James K0UA

 

[DK35vince]

I have a new thread asking about AG vs Industrial tires. I need to decide pretty quick. what is your 2 cents?

David

Ag tires have the best traction
Turf tires are the easiest on the lawn
R-4's are somewhere in the middle

 

[TripleR]

Either is going to be a compromise, we have tractors with both.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Ok!

I'm going to go with R4's... Now I just need to decide which tractor I am buying!

They BOTH are AWESOME, so are both dealers!


Decisions, decisions, decisions.... Thank God I have a huge list of chores I need to go work on so I am not distracted and spending too much time on TBN trying to decide what tractor to buy...

Thanks Guys!
David

 

[MtnViewRanch]

foreman Etexas,

I am planning to buy attachments, and I will finance them if they will let me (I have not asked that yet).

I intend to include the follwing with the tractor for sure (if I can).
teeth for the FEL bucket
welded hooks for the FEL bucket
2 rear remotes (not sure what I will use these for though)
Hard top on the ROPS (just for rain/shade)

My current plan to buy is the following attachments...

6' rotary mower (aka bush hog)
pallet forks (probably will buy used)
box blade
Jake rake (is that the right term?)

there is a long list of maybe's after that I am not sure of. The only thing I an really considering new is the bush hog.

The deal on the tractor is ending this month, I need to move fast on it, the rest can wait a short while...

Make sense? Am I crazy?

You will find that when you are grading your trails and roads that they just are not coming out quite as good as you would like them. Put a top and tilt set of hydraulics on your 3pt hitch and the job will become much much easier to accomplish. That is why you want those 2 rear remotes.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

You will find that when you are grading your trails and roads that they just are not coming out quite as good as you would like them. Put a top and tilt set of hydraulics on your 3pt hitch and the job will become much much easier to accomplish. That is why you want those 2 rear remotes.

DUDE!!!!!!

I'm not 100% sure what I am looking at, but I suspect I actually understand it and THAT ROCKS!!!!!

Very cool!

I am assuming you are running a rear blade and grading trails with it and "angling" the blade in "Z" and not just in "X,Y"...

am I kinda right?

Rocking...
David

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Yes that is a rear blade on the hitch, but the main reason for showing the picture was to show you hydraulic top and side links. These are very very nice to have for all 3pt grading implements. Most commonly used with box blades, but very useful with rear blades, landscape rakes, land leveling grader blades. There are uses with other implements also, just listing out some of the grading implements commonly used.

The 1st picture is with a smaller tractor with "TnT" hooked up to a Gannon roll over box blade. In the second pic you can see that the rear blade is tilted so that only the leading edge is cutting about 36"-42" on a 9' wide blade. The 3rd pic shows that a top link can and is used with a land plane grader blade. The last pic shows how much of an angle that can be had with this tractor, that is a 13" difference from side to side.

Those are some examples of what top and tilt hydraulics are used for on the 3pt hitch. Keep this in mind when you are out grading at your place.

 

[k0ua]

Dave what he is saying is he has replaced his top link and right side link with hydraulic cylinders. As they come they are jackscrews, that you must stop the tractor set the brake, get off and by hand rotate the jackscrews to lengthen or shorten the top link to change the angle of attack of a blade or something else, and the side link to adjust the angle side to side. and sometime you have to raise and lower the 3pt hitch to get take the weight off of the implement to get enough slack to be able to manually turn the jackscrews. you might have to do this several times to crank them to where you think you want them. then you get back on release the brake and try the settings, and if they are not where you want them, then you get to do it again. With the hydraulic TnT you do it on the fly from your seat and can adjust in seconds. Now I may have made it sound worse than it is on the manual adjustments, as you get good at figuring out about how much you need to adjust, or you get real tired getting off and on the tractor..But there you have it the general idea. Can you live without TnT?, sure but if you do a lot of box blading or grading, from what I understand it is the cat's meow. And that is one reason you might want those 2 rear remotes

James K0UA