What hydro oil are you all using

[PineRidge]

Sitting here needing hydro oil how about some suggestions from the guys that have purchased some from Tractor Supply, NAPA, Advanced Auto, etc. so many different brands it’s confusing to say the least

 

[5030]

depends on your wallet but don't buy the cheap stuff at TSC because it's basically junk and will cause you issues down the road. TSC also sells Shell Rotella Hydraulic fluid and it's pretty good in my experience. In fact I use it in my open station M9. Looks and smells just like Kubota UDT actually.

 

[GS650GL]

Buy the best oil you can to protect your investment. Oil and filters are not the place to skimp to save money. I always use synthetic hydraulic oil in a hydrostatic transmission and conventional in a gearshift transmission. Synthetic is very pricey but gives the hydrostat pump and motor the best protection against wear.

 

[PineRidge]

I was really hoping that some of you guys might actually give me a brand and type so I could get with the program here. I’m not trying to skimp just don’t want to make the wrong choice

 

[Panik]

Personally, I still use Kubota UDT2 hydraulic fluid.... but recently switched over to Shell Rotella T6 for engine oil based on multiple recommendations of people that know better than I.....were there not a Kubota dealership in town I'd likely be using Rotella hydraulic fluid.... so take that for what you will regarding a brand recommendation.

 

[spruce Deere]

I use chevron thf 1000. I get it from my local oil distributor. Run it in the trannies of both the LS XR3140, 790 deere in my power steering pump in two pick-ups.

It cost a little more than the napa, auto zone, O'riely's tractor/hydraulic fluids but it's good stuff with a long track record of stellar performance. Many logging companies and farms around here use chevron thf for the main hydraulic fluid, even in high pressure systems.

 

[5030]

I was really hoping that some of you guys might actually give me a brand and type so I could get with the program here. I’m not trying to skimp just don’t want to make the wrong choice

I did. Se post number 2.

 

[5030]

I use chevron thf 1000. I get it from my local oil distributor. Run it in the trannies of both the LS XR3140, 790 deere in my power steering pump in two pick-ups.

It cost a little more than the napa, auto zone, O'riely's tractor/hydraulic fluids but it's good stuff with a long track record of stellar performance. Many logging companies and farms around here use chevron thf for the main hydraulic fluid, even in high pressure systems.

What I use in my other N9000 and have for years now. Excellent cold weather flowability. Never had issue one with my hydraulics in 20 years now. My open station will also be on THF when I change out this next time. Only reason I used Rotella hydraulic fluid is I bought the tractor used and the oil in the gearbox was nasty so I drained it, changed the filters (Kubota only) and used the Rotella but next change will be to THF and I will say that I use Blackstone for oil analysis and they keep telling me my THF could go a lot longer than what I run it. I change it every 2 years, plus the filters but I'm always adding anyway because my Pioneer SCV's always leak a bit during hooking up and unhooking implements, most of which are hydraulically actuated.

 

[MMC]

Sometimes we get into a cross between philosophy and engineering on lubricants. Me, I compromise a bit...but not on engineering specifications.

I would not put any lubricant into your machine that was not specifically named in your manual or identified with a manufacturer "spec" number you can find on the jug/pail. We can joke about designs and cuss a bit, but I personally believe in "listening" to the folks who build our tractors.

For example, I do use TSC "Premium" Hydraulic Fluid in some older tractors and a Case 580C backhoe. Because I can find the Case "THC" hydraulic lube spec on the bucket. Been using it for 15 years without a problem in that machine and other tractors.

But...here's where I begin to draw lines for myself. For example, I have a newer Massey with a Sisu diesel and what is essentially a Fendt transmission under it. That machine gets only AGCO (MF) branded hydraulic lubricants. Why? Well, a feeling. I believe the tolerances and complexity of these newer "hydraulic" machines call for sticking close to engineering spec and intervals, etc. Same with the Allison trans in my Duramax truck - only gets Allison synthetic "Transynd" transmission fluid and Allison filters.

But I do trust Shell Rotella - they have an international presence and reputation, as do several other major oil suppliers. There are eight diesels we run on this farm and they only get Shell Rotella 15W40 (as do several other gas engines).

For yourself, with a newer machine, I would suggest going to your manual and pull out the filter numbers and lubrication specs and writing them down on the outside of the manual (at least that's what I do). I would use the manufacturer's oil filters, Shell Rotella for the engine, and whatever LS specs or brands for hydraulic fluid. If you can't find LS hydraulic fluid, I would be comfortable with buying by their spec any of the top oil suppliers' offerings (read Shell, Chevron and the like). Many times, you can get branded lubricants off of Amazon (from real suppliers - be careful) cheaper than local and get it delivered.

Just my suggestions. Good luck.

 

[5030]

The underlying reason I use Chevron THF (besides the fact is comes dyed orange (of all things) is cold weather flow ability. It gets real cold up here and I use my one M9 for plowing and blowing snow (the cab tractor for obvious reasons) and I don't plug it in mainly because I have no electricity in the big barn so to decrease warm up time in the winter, I use Chevron THF Synthetic. Works well in the summer as well. In the winter, I still start it and have a cup of java while it warms up. I don't believe in working a cold engine and at the same time, when I shut it down, I'll idle it for a few minutes to let the turbocharger cool down.

I draw the line with cheap fluids like TSC's Traveller hydraulic fluid. In life you most always get what you pay for so if it's cheap, I stay away from it. I bought the cab tractor in 2002 and so far I've had zero issues with it and it has over 5000 hours on it presently. Same with the open station, 2001 and no issues with it either and it has over 6500 hours presently. Steady diet of Shell Rotella but 5-40, not 15 40 T6 and OEM filters always. In fact OEM filters all around.

 

[revver6]

mobilfluid 424,delo 5w-40 in the engine,schaeffers grease on the grease points

 

[5030]

Only thing Mobil I use is the Mobil Rarus non detergent reciprocating compressor oil and Mobil way lubricant for my precision machine tools and I buy those specific oils from MSC in gallon jugs only.

 

[MMC]

The underlying reason I use Chevron THF (besides the fact is comes dyed orange (of all things) is cold weather flow ability. It gets real cold up here and I use my one M9 for plowing and blowing snow (the cab tractor for obvious reasons) and I don't plug it in mainly because I have no electricity in the big barn so to decrease warm up time in the winter, I use Chevron THF Synthetic. Works well in the summer as well. In the winter, I still start it and have a cup of java while it warms up. I don't believe in working a cold engine and at the same time, when I shut it down, I'll idle it for a few minutes to let the turbocharger cool down.

I draw the line with cheap fluids like TSC's Traveller hydraulic fluid. In life you most always get what you pay for so if it's cheap, I stay away from it. I bought the cab tractor in 2002 and so far I've had zero issues with it and it has over 5000 hours on it presently. Same with the open station, 2001 and no issues with it either and it has over 6500 hours presently. Steady diet of Shell Rotella but 5-40, not 15 40 T6 and OEM filters always. In fact OEM filters all around.

And that's good operational advice for anyone running in your environment. Even in Kentucky, I absolutely believe in warming equipment, especially in cold temps (but nowhere like yours). I do have block heaters on everything and use them (well, except for an RTV1100 - glow plugs and gentle first starts). Still warm things up after. But that only takes care of our engines - slow going at first helps protect the expensive hydraulic stuff underneath. As do synthetics and lighter weight lubricants. Volumes have been written by the military on cold weather operations and the lubricant MILSPECs that support them - whole different world. And many of the "on condition" oil change ideas based on oil analysis that you use come from that world as well (and from commercial fleet maintenance in trucking).

And, yes, I also tell people don't shut a diesel down when you jump out of the cab after running at PTO speed for four hours in 90 degree weather... And...wait for it, I have a shut down timer on my Duramax set at 350 degrees for the turbo.

I respect your opinion on TSC lubricants - I just have never had a problem in the equipment I put it in with their branded "Premium" bucket. The others I have no experience with. I would not be comfortable using it in the more expensive machines we run in today's world. Unless I could see real world test data (and most of us mere mortals won't get that kind of stuff)...

 

[GS650GL]

We use Schaeffer's Simplex Supreme synthetic because my dealer sells Schaeffer's and I want to use synthetic in my hydrostatic machines for winter operation. Flows better in the cold and doesn't break down in the heat. The manual says GS Caltex which is not available in this part of the world.

 

[Avenger]

I'm probably going to get some hate for this, but...

There is a lot of opinions here about what lubricants, and rightfully so. The lubricants run and protect your investment, you want to make sure you're adding the the right fluids. But you also realize that changing these lubricants can seriously damage your wallet. Some would say its the cost of doing business, while others will say oil is oil and your hard earned dollars are best spent elsewhere. Doing your 500hr service, where you pretty much change out all the fluids, is not cheap! I just did mine, as in, finished it yesterday.

I realized that changing out the hydraulic oil was going to be a bear. It holds just over 11 gallons of fluid. Now, not all that fluid will be removed, so lets say 10 gallons max. I went to North 40, it's kind of like a TSC but way better. The manual for my tractor specs API GL4 ISO VG 46/68. But lets put that aside for now, lets get into the store and down the isle with all these different oils.

I see shelves and rows of different colored jugs and bottles. Each one is either specified for a specific tractor manufacture or rating. Of course there isn't one for New Holland and certainly not for LS. But down on the bottom shelf there is a row of 5gal buckets. One says "Harvest King AW-46" on it. Well, turning the bucket around, it meets and exceeds the API GL4 rating. Check the price... $70!! And I need two of these, plus another 2 gal jug for extra. And this is the 'cheap' stuff.

We better keep looing. I walked around a bit, but didn't see any other brands. They carry Shell, Mobil, etc, but not in Hydraulic fluid. To the interwebs! Standing in the store I pull out my phone and press the Amazon icon. Search for hydraulic fluid...

I scroll through the options looking for brands I'd recognize and trust. I find Shell Rotella Heavy Duty Tractor Fluid, specifies API GL4 and is recommended for New Holland (LS) (and others). After taxes, it's $137 and I need two! Moving on, I find Chevron Rando HD ISO 46 for $124. Same story. I decided to go with the Harvest King. Is it the same as TSC Traverls? Probably. Do I care? no, not really. It meets the specifications, and now with 500hrs on the meter, I have not had a problem. And yes, I have been using this same fluid since the 50hr mark.

Hydraulic fluid is not under the same conditions as engine oil. While hydraulic fluid does lubricate and pressurize, it does not get that hot or have that much friction applied to it. Which is why it will last for so long inside the tractor vs engine oil. Hydraulic fluid will absorb moisture though, so it does need to be changed. Growing up on the farm, with our old machinery, we never changed it! Just always had to add more oil when the level got low, due to the various leaks!

My advice on the different lubricants is buy what you can afford and know why. I don't cheap out on the engine oil. I run Mobil 1 in all my vehicles, tractors, small engines, etc. Gear oil and hydraulic fluid is what I find on the shelf. I also am not a stickler for OEM filters. I could pay to have the manufactures name on the filter, or pay half as much and have Wix printed on it.

The 500hr service I just completed cost me about $400 in fluids and filters (thats quick math, I keep a stock of filters and most oils). If I was to use a name brand fluid, it would have been about $500 for the service.

The important thing here is to do the maintenance regularly. Either trailer the tractor to the dealership and pay to have them do it, or do it yourself, but do it. Don't get wrapped around the axle about what brand is what. Spend what you can, and do the work.

 

[MMC]

Nope, no hate at all. I like to read and learn, after 7 decades. By the way, your quote from Richard Bach made me remember his account of flying an F-84F in a thunderstorm - "all weather fighters" was probably a stretch back then...

I think (others may have experiential evidence) that hydraulic fluid used in certain tractor/implement applications may indeed get hot. Let's see what others say.

As for lubes, you make your choices and take your chances - I do. TSC or other Farm supply houses obviously do not refine oils. They buy them and slap a brand on - we assume they paid a refiner to meet a certain spec. But oil isn't their real business and their reputation isn't as crucial in this area. If Cummins asks Shell Oil to meet a certain spec, you can bet Shell meets it.

Maybe TSC refiners meet the spec too. I just have no way of knowing/testing. And many decades ago, hydraulic oil wasn't much more than 10W or 20W or 30W, etc. I only make the argument that today's machines call for much more sophisticated hydraulic lubricants and I have no way as a consumer to know what's really in the jug (but note that I put TSC Premium in older equipment with no problem).

As to Wix, they are my go to for bulk filters - they make Napa Gold and other premium brands and will show you exactly what design parameters were used on a filter on their site. If you know the LS spec and a Wix crossover spec is the same, I'd say buy it.

You have a good attitude on maintenance - that's the life of your machine. I would point out that your costs noted above are only 20% different for using top trusted brands though.

Isn't that pretty cheap insurance on an expensive machine?

 

[spruce Deere]

What I use in my other N9000 and have for years now. Excellent cold weather flowability. Never had issue one with my hydraulics in 20 years now. My open station will also be on THF when I change out this next time. Only reason I used Rotella hydraulic fluid is I bought the tractor used and the oil in the gearbox was nasty so I drained it, changed the filters (Kubota only) and used the Rotella but next change will be to THF and I will say that I use Blackstone for oil analysis and they keep telling me my THF could go a lot longer than what I run it. I change it every 2 years, plus the filters but I'm always adding anyway because my Pioneer SCV's always leak a bit during hooking up and unhooking implements, most of which are hydraulically actuated.

It's good oil. And like you pointed out, I have no cold flow issues. Also like that it's died orange, very easy to see it on the dip stick or a sight glass. A while back, 35 odd years ago, I used thf 1000 to fill a chevy citation manual tranny, didn't have any atf..... Drove it for a couple years zero issues.

 

[5030]

It can be somewhat hard to get but I will say that besides my jobber, NAPA has it as well. 110% sold on it. Not a cheap date but good stuff isn't ever cheap.

 

[tomplum]

There was a guy on here with the same tractor I have that worked the living tar out of it. He put in Amsoil, so at the break in filter change I did a DNR with it. No complaints. Dunno if I would have with what came in it though either...

 

[Doofy]

Sitting here needing hydro oil how about some suggestions from the guys that have purchased some from Tractor Supply, NAPA, Advanced Auto, etc. so many different brands it’s confusing to say the least

My Dealer uses NAPA Tractor Hydraulic Fluid and so that is what I'm using. Works just fine for me.