what do I need ? (hydraulics)

[Rockbadchild]

Depends on the tractor and where/how it can be mounted. (valves and couplers). Also your level of hydraulic understanding.

I know its been about 7 years now.....so pre-covid-flation. But I put 3 remotes on the back of my tractor for under $500

ho wow ... Before I installed my second valve I ask a dealer about the rear remote and they where talking about $1500 plus labor... the rear remote kit that I see online is basically the same as a third function kit... I don't know much about it to be honest but by looking at my pump it doesn't look like there is plug spair port on my pump...

 

[Rockbadchild]

I’d just mount a two spool loader type valve to the fender or on rops whichever side you turn around in the seat to run blower. Run power beyond from third function valve to it then from it to 3 point. It would be very intuitive to control blower with a single lever.

Valve

Well I wouldn't need to do that since I don't use my thirds function spool valve during the winter. But along the line of what you are saying I could change my single spool with a double then I would be good to go... the manual hydraulic multiplier is $350 so not much cheaper then a two spool function valve.

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[alexpops]

You wouldn't use the pump directly, rather the power beyond port from your loader or RR. Basically, you run them in series, and when the pressure/flow is needed on one port it is available. Would also need to replumb the tank return line.

 

[LD1]

Yea, you use a power beyond port.

Since you already have a loader....the ports on the tractor become simplified. the only line you need to "ADD" is a tank line.

You simply take the PB port coming out of the loader.....follow where ever it is going to. This hose marks both the P and PB of the new valve.

In otherwords....you currently have your loader valve pb probably going to the tractor somewhere. Take that PB and make it go to the new valve.....and the PB out of the new valve goes to wherever that old hose went on the tractor. Then simply add the tank line which can be tee'd into an existing tank line.

Then its just the work ports of the valve going to the remotes.

Figuring out the hydraulics is the easy part.....finding a place to mount the valve and handles as well as couplers is where it can get challenging and may need some good fabrication skills.

I am sure parts have gone up in the 7 years since I did mine, but there is a link in my signature to what/how I did mine

 

[alexpops]

Even if you don't use their parts, check out the Summit hydraulics site. They have links to install schematics to show you parts/layouts needed under different configurations. educational if nothing else. Then, depending on budget, either use their electric solution/manual solution or buy parts at surplus center & discount hose & cobble it together

 

[Rockbadchild]

Yea, you use a power beyond port.

Since you already have a loader....the ports on the tractor become simplified. the only line you need to "ADD" is a tank line.

You simply take the PB port coming out of the loader.....follow where ever it is going to. This hose marks both the P and PB of the new valve.

In otherwords....you currently have your loader valve pb probably going to the tractor somewhere. Take that PB and make it go to the new valve.....and the PB out of the new valve goes to wherever that old hose went on the tractor. Then simply add the tank line which can be tee'd into an existing tank line.

Then its just the work ports of the valve going to the remotes.

Figuring out the hydraulics is the easy part.....finding a place to mount the valve and handles as well as couplers is where it can get challenging and may need some good fabrication skills.

I am sure parts have gone up in the 7 years since I did mine, but there is a link in my signature to what/how I did mine

thanks you LDI, ok I will check your link, you are as useful as usual, I appreciate it.