Welding recommendations for this part ...

Qapla · May 5, 2012

Well, I was digging and all the sudden "POP" and the bucket dropped. The ram on the boom arm broke (Woods BH 70-X Sub-frame Backhoe
) According to Woods, the specs of this Hydraulic cylinder 2.5 x 1.25 x 15.50 Retracted length 26.25in.

I have included some pics. A couple are a bit hard to see clearly, but that was the best I could do with the positioning of the cylinder and my phone. If needed, I can try to take some clearer pics if that would help.

Questions:
Is this something we could weld or should we leave it to the professionals or replace the ram/cylinder?

If we weld it (we have a stick welder and a wire welder) what rod/wire should we use.

Suggested setting for the welder

Thanks

FredH · May 5, 2012

Slightly longer , but I did not search to much .

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7941-16-S&catname=hydraulic

Welding Shaft is very debatable . Requires beveling on both sides , thus welding from as close to the center of shaft on out . Otherwise you are just welding the outside of the shaft all the way around , with the center still broken .

Only my opinion .:thumbsup:

Fred H.

Davestc29 · May 5, 2012

You can reweld it but you have to make a bevel and multiple passes to make it strong as for type if a ain't a good welder something with bare min 180 amp 220 volt is go to a machine shop and have them do it. If it were me I'd do it like welding pipe first with a 6010 and cap it with a 7018 of 7024

hog987 · May 5, 2012

Just go to a machine shop and get a new rod made for the cylinder.

mrmikey · May 5, 2012

Extend it out so you don't overheat the wiper in the end of the barrell, bevel the rod to a wedge shape like a chisel not a point like a pencil and weld it up with 7018. Make sure you don't get any weld on the rod where it goes past the wiper, same for spatter.
To be sure wrap a damp rag around the rod, it'll protect it form stray arc strikes also.....Mike

brain55 · May 5, 2012

The first thing I would do is price a new rod so you can make an informed cost analysis. I'm sure you have a cost in your mind (I'm sure this number varies for all of us) where it wouldn't make sense to try and fix it yourself. Along with availability and shipping cost and time depending on how critical having the machine up and running again is. You would definitely want that information before you went to machine shop to have one made, or taking it to a professional welder to have them repair it.

MuleMn · May 5, 2012

Replace rod or whole cylinder if need be. Since you are asking the question, if it is welded let a pro do it.

. Specs are real critical.

Tractor Seabee · May 5, 2012

It is probably a standard cylinder. Take it to a hydraulic shop (not your dealer) and I'll bet they can match up a new push rod. If you are not mechanical minded they can disassemble and assemble it for you. Problem with welding w/o professional jigs is keeping it straight and true. A little off and you will destroy the cylinder seals quickly. Pretty hard to heat and straighten unless you get the rod out of the cylinder first. Price the rod replacement vs a new cylinder assembled. It may be cost effective to just buy the whole thing. They are easy to replace with standard shop tools.

Ron

Groo · May 5, 2012

If you try welding it and it breaks again, you will be in the same spot as you are now. I'd at least give it a shot.

I recently got a cylinder rebuilt for about $200, including a new rod welded to the old end, if that helps you.