welding bolts to remove them.

[4shorts]

I've run into a situation like this at least twice a week. I even posted on how I do it on here last year. Anyway here's how I do it and I use this method on everything from small screws to large bolts.

#1. Take a flat washer put it on it's flat side and weld the center of the washer to the head of the screw/bolt first.

#2. Take a nut and weld it to the washer by going down through the center of the nut.

#3. Let cool then use wrench or socket to remove bolt. Nutt'en to it. Been doing it for years. Never failed me yet

 

[North West Farmer]

4shots,

With equipment I have, I would attempt the impact driver first. I really like your explanation using the flat washer, nut and then turn the nut. The welding required for this process appears to be within my capabilities and the capabilities of my welders.

Checked out your pictures and I was very impressed with your pictures, your shop, your workmanship and the quality of the final projects.

I have a fairly good shop set up, but the equipment you have was imprissive to me.

Nick, North West Farmer

 

[4shorts]

4shots,

With equipment I have, I would attempt the impact driver first. I really like your explanation using the flat washer, nut and then turn the nut. The welding required for this process appears to be within my capabilities and the capabilities of my welders.

Checked out your pictures and I was very impressed with your pictures, your shop, your workmanship and the quality of the final projects.

I have a fairly good shop set up, but the equipment you have was imprissive to me.

Nick, North West Farmer

Thanks Nick. An impact driver will get those out but remember my method if it don't . Glad to hear you enjoyed viewing my photos,tooling and some of my work. The right tools do make the projects more enjoyable. :thumbsup: Good luck with your project. Cheers. Paul

 

[Army grunt]

Use a center punch an a hammer . holding it on a angle strike it on the outside radius of the head. Do this in a few diferent places.
Army Grunt

 

[roygage]

I have a stick welder and need to remove 3 recessed special shaped screws for my car door lock and the brake actuator on my truck. the truck bolt is straight forward and will probably not be a problem. the car is another story.

They have degenerated fairly badly. I stuck a screwdriver in and turned quite easily looked down and the screw wasnt turning it had no strength in the head.

I own and operate a auto repair shop and will give you my take. My first choice would be a hand impact. Critical your bit is new or in new condition and fits like a glove. Yes, you can use a air impact but very touchy and too easy to strip the head out.

At this point I would also be coating the tip with valve lapping compound which should be available in a small tube or from a auto parts supplier or if you are friends with someone in the business borrow a thimble full of it.

One of the fellows mentioned using a sharp center punch hit at a angle on the outer dia. of the screw head, have had good luck with this also. Some times I will used a 3/16 or 1/4 inch pin punch sharpened at the tip.

I weld nuts on bolts often as others have mentioned, but, have never had to do it on one of those latch screws, hand impact has always worked.

I would be a little concerned about overheating the surrounding painted light metal when welding a nut on it. For this reason would be my last resort.

 

[beeforty]

Here is a set up that is used in the aviation industry all the time on stubborn fasteners. Buy Pan American 34-540 "Screw Buster" Screw Removal Tool- Sky Geek, Skygeek Owner Shop, Shop Supplies, Tools, Bolt Extractors, Screw Extractors, Screw Removal Tools,. You put a apex tip holder on the end with the correct bit and use your own air hammer/rivet gun to shock the threads and twist the handle to break it loose. Wear ear plugs it is noisy.

 

[gwdixon]

I've run into a situation like this at least twice a week. I even posted on how I do it on here last year. Anyway here's how I do it and I use this method on everything from small screws to large bolts.

#1. Take a flat washer put it on it's flat side and weld the center of the washer to the head of the screw/bolt first.

#2. Take a nut and weld it to the washer by going down through the center of the nut.

#3. Let cool then use wrench or socket to remove bolt. Nutt'en to it. Been doing it for years. Never failed me yet

I've followed 4shorts on this forum and a few others (his signature blue font color gives him away).

If ANYBODY needs ANY advice about how to do something with metal he is a fantastic source. Too bad he is so busy with all of his projects, repairs, and business that he doesn't post more often.

The quoted post for example. Who would have thought to weld a washer on first. It makes perfect sense rather than trying to weld down to the bottom of a nut to reach the broken shaft of a bolt. I'll be using that technique from now on.

Even though he can weld the backside of a shaft without seeing the arc (puddle) he is willing to share techniques that help out the rest of us - the "disadvantaged" rest of us.

Hopefully, his area will have a horrible winter and he'll have nothing better to do than post more often. Well, after he clears the roads with his new tractor.

Now that is selfish thinking.

 

[4shorts]

I've followed 4shorts on this forum and a few others (his signature blue font color gives him away).

If ANYBODY needs ANY advice about how to do something with metal he is a fantastic source. Too bad he is so busy with all of his projects, repairs, and business that he doesn't post more often.

The quoted post for example. Who would have thought to weld a washer on first. It makes perfect sense rather than trying to weld down to the bottom of a nut to reach the broken shaft of a bolt. I'll be using that technique from now on.

Even though he can weld the backside of a shaft without seeing the arc (puddle) he is willing to share techniques that help out the rest of us - the "disadvantaged" rest of us.

Hopefully, his area will have a horrible winter and he'll have nothing better to do than post more often. Well, after he clears the roads with his new tractor.

Now that is selfish thinking.

Thank you very much my friend for your kind comments. I do appreciate them very much. I don't post often because of the reasons you mentioned (you know me well) but I also don't post because I don't want people to think of me as a "Know it all" so I do more reading than I do posting

Someone asked me a few weeks ago about the blue lettering I use on my posts and the reason I use it is because my late dads favorite color was blue so when I post in blue it's in his memory.

Seeing you enjoyed my little tip I decided to go and look for the example I posted on it last year and here is the link. It starts on post #131. You'll see exactly how I do it and it works well.

I also posted a few photos of an adapter I use at times on my pneumatic air gun. You can put a socket on the 3/8th end and while turning the 3/4 wrench and pulling the trigger on the gun you'll get the nut or bolt off in short order. It's very similar to one of tools another member posted on above.

Oh. I hope I have a bad winter weather wise as well. I need to go play in the tractor :laughing:


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/177486-ironworker-ironworker-14.html

Post #131

 

[jake98]

Nutt'en to it.

Great name for a garage business! :laughing:

 

[North West Farmer]

4shorts,

I need your garage building or something like it. My oldest son and I are having one heck of a time determining where we are going to put our equipment this winter. We presently have a 5th wheel RV trailer and a flat bed goose neck, rear ramp trailer that both need a home and we only have one bay left.

Unfortunately we are in excess of 3000 miles apart and even though it is not the subject of this thread could you pass along some info. on that structure. There might be an outlet for that company on our side of the world that could help us with a weather resistant structure.

I apologize to the thread participants for getting off the subject, but that garage in Newfoundland in those pictures looks to be just the ticket for our trailer winter storage.

Nick, North West Farmer

 

[4shorts]

4shorts,

I need your garage building or something like it. My oldest son and I are having one heck of a time determining where we are going to put our equipment this winter. We presently have a 5th wheel RV trailer and a flat bed goose neck, rear ramp trailer that both need a home and we only have one bay left.

Unfortunately we are in excess of 3000 miles apart and even though it is not the subject of this thread could you pass along some info. on that structure. There might be an outlet for that company on our side of the world that could help us with a weather resistant structure.

I apologize to the thread participants for getting off the subject, but that garage in Newfoundland in those pictures looks to be just the ticket for our trailer winter storage.

Nick, North West Farmer

Nick if it's the new shelter I just put up it's made by Shelterlogic. I went with this design due to it's shape. I did make some changes to the installation to keep it planted firmly to the ground. Mine measures 10 x 24 x 12. Here's a video of it.


Shelterlogic for the Kubota.wmv - YouTube

 

[boggen]

have you tried BP blaster yet. to help remove the rusting. spray some on. let it set for a couple hours, spray some more on. let it sit over night, in morning spray a little more on. at min it would help remove the rusting. to make what ever you due try, a bigger chance of getting the screws out with less force.

 

[BrianR]

If they are so bad that the screw head gets chewed up, even after using a hand held impact driver, I will center drill the bolt with a 1/8" drill bit and try to get it out with an easy-out tool.

If that fails, then I resort to tig welding a grade 5 bolt, usually 1/4-20, to the screw head and turn it out with a wrench. Obviously both of my methods will require new fasteners.

You could always just drill the screw head off entirely and punch the latch out......an obvious worst case scenario, requiring a donor latch assembly!

 

[Soundguy]

or just drill out and keep drilling out till you can pick the threads out.. BTDT on many a casting on a tractor... have to be a lil more carefull on a stamping though.. drill straight!


soundguy

 

[deereman75]

I have found the best thing to get stuck bolts off is the gunk liquid wrench. I was restoring a vintage engine, and a brass fule fitting was stuck so hard that when we put a pipe wrench on it and beat on it with a hammer, and all it did was chew up the brass. We then sprayed a little gunk liquid wrench on it, and put a normal open end wrench on it, whacked it a few times with a block of wood, and it came right off. I would probably try soaking it with that before you start welding things on it.

 

[Soundguy]

sounds like the head has already given way. I think it's past the penetrant stage...


soundguy

 

[KubotainNH]

My first choice would be a hand impact. Critical your bit is new or in new condition and fits like a glove. Yes, you can use a air impact but very touchy and too easy to strip the head out.

Used one of these on many crappy screws. They usually fit nice and tight and when you hit it you get a pushing/turning force at the same time that also jars the locked threads. I sometimes use mine as a regular screwdriver because it fits so snuggly and is easier to grab than a regular screwdriver.
Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

 

[deepNdirt]

Used one of these on many crappy screws. They usually fit nice and tight and when you hit it you get a pushing/turning force at the same time that also jars the locked threads. I sometimes use mine as a regular screwdriver because it fits so snuggly and is easier to grab than a regular screwdriver.

My first experience with attempting to get stuck and reamed screws heads out and I'm sure almost everyone who has ever tried to has done the same, I used to help with restoring and customizing cars/trucks,vans, and when i would re-carpet them it required that I remove the aluminum thresh hold that held the carpet edge down in the door jamb, These stainless steel screws are almost always full of packed in grime and or rusty, and at first when using a standard + screwdriver I would wind up reaming out the head making it even more difficult to get the screws out, You would be surprised on how much fuss the owner of cars would make over nasty-ing up the heads of the original screws from a '69 Chevy SS collectors car..... I learned right quick about the impact driver and how useful it can be in this kind of situation,
I've not been without it in my toolbox since :thumbsup:

 

[Short Game]

I bought a 1964 BSA 650 Lightning Rocket in 1969. I got to go to BSA Service School that year. Without a hand-held impact driver, it would have been a hopeless task to work on those old bikes without doing damage and taking an advanced course in easy-outs.

 

[slowzuki]

I have had several vehicles like that and also live in the rust belt. I bought the hammer impact, not great, so I put the nose on my 1/2" impact, much better, gets 90% of them out fine by working them in a out. If you just go out they bind on the rusty threads and snap the head off.

Other option is cold chisel on the perimeter in the unscrewing direction. The side load often frees them up.