Welding a Fireplace Heatalator

[Industrial Toys]

I have a 45 year old Fire place Heatalator (sp?) that is cracked.



Any suggestions on the easiest way to repair this?

Does it need material placed over the crack or would a bead do? It's irregular and putting something over top won't be easy. I would say the material is 1/16" or a little better.

I have a Lincoln 255 X(something) mig and an old Sears AC (Buzz Box) Welder. Which should I use? The Buzz Box would be much easier to get at the project.

I'm surprised that smoke hasn't been getting into the air system, so I'm guessing a perfect repair won't be necessary.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[yomax4]

You can fix it with either machine. 1/16 easy strike rod from MG would be great for a stick repair. 023-030 wire. You will want to try to clean it up better and try to close that crack a little more. Then drill a hole at each end of the crack to keep it from cracking further. Personally I would use wire. Just easier for me to fill gaps and you can do spots and stitches. I had an old Fuego fireplace that had a similar issue only vertical. Easy fix.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Thanks.

I guess at the end of the day, my question would be more, what can stand up better to the constant intense heating and cooling cycles if I just lay a bead? I use 035 wire and not sure what rods I have. Just some general purpose ones.

 

[PILOON]

Another suggestion.

Use some flat plate larger than the crack, smear some stove cement over the crack and using self tapping metal screws attach said 'patch'.

I would suggest the parch stock be one gauge thicker than the heat a lator.

 

[Oldpath05]

"Fire place Heatalator"<<<<<<<<I have no idea what that is but that crack looks like 1/8 heat distorted steel. I had one of them old Sears AC welders 40 years ago, my first welding machine, I weld the crap out of it.

Anyhow since that welder is easier to bring to the repair, I'd fill the gap with 3/32 6011, then a lap patch 1/8 x 4'' wide-ish, then weld that with 3/32 7014, <<<<you might have to weave a little so not to get slag entrapment, it's not penetrating rod but it makes a very strong weld, you're probably familiar with them since you have that old Sears buzz box.

There's probably a dozen ways to fix this and all will work...........

 

[mrmikey]

Not to be Mr negative here but chances are it'll break again. If the original un-repaired piece broke, I'm thinking a repair will break also. You'd be better off using stainless rod, it'll give you a bit more flexibility. Just my 2 cents worth.................Mike

 

[Industrial Toys]

Thanks. Usually with Mig I weld new steel and am told the stick works better on old stuff, albeit probably DC. I never really understood why DC is so much better. That steel is so deformed and buckled that putting a patch on won't be easy.

A heatalator is a double walled steel box that they built a masonry fireplace around. It acts as a heat exchanger with vents connected at ground level sucking in cold air and others higher up to expel warm air through convection alone or with the help of a fan. Basically it increases the efficiency of a fireplace.

 

[kevin37b]

Do not fix it if it is not broke . You start welding on that it will crack all to **** .

 

[Industrial Toys]

I have never smelled a whiff of smoke coming out the registers. Maybe I should just leave it be. I have a tube of high temp silicone open. Maybe just brush the crack clean and schmear some in.

 

[yomax4]

You can fix it with either machine. 1/16 easy strike rod from MG would be great for a stick repair. 023-030 wire. You will want to try to clean it up better and try to close that crack a little more. Then drill a hole at each end of the crack to keep it from cracking further. Personally I would use wire. Just easier for me to fill gaps and you can do spots and stitches. I had an old Fuego fireplace that had a similar issue only vertical. Easy fix.

035 will be difficult unless you know your welder well and are a good hand with the gun. Or unless you spot the whole crack. Heat and cool should be ok unless you use a different make up of filler like Silicon bronze or stainless. I've also slid a backing plate in through the crack with a thin piece of tig rod tacked to it. Pull it up tight to the crack and tack the plate. I doubt you will need to that here. just do a bunch if spots and connect the dots. Many ways to fix this.