John0829
Veteran Member
So what have you done toward finding the problem? Most of the posts speak to the connections being the problem and unless I have missed it (if I have my apologies) I have not seen you post about checking or repairing any.
Weak brakes & battery box confusion.
- Thread starter Hay Dude
- Start date
So what have you done toward finding the problem? Most of the posts speak to the connections being the problem and unless I have missed it (if I have my apologies) I have not seen you post about checking or repairing any.
I can't believe in 9 pages of posts that no one has suggested putting an amp clamp on each brake and comparing the readings. Someone suggested that each wheel should draw around 3 amps. If one or two wheels are low, then focus your attention there first looking at each ground or splices at each axle. If all are low then look at the wiring from front of the trailer to the first splice point. Fix or rewire to get rid of sketchy crimp splices or Scotch locks which will be a constant source of failures. And forget about the emergency battery for now. It doesn't serve any purpose except when the trailer departs from the truck. The OP gave all the information to find this fault when he said that all was well with the other trailer. I do automotive electrical diagnostics and would love to have a job this easy in my shop.
A battery can check good on voltage at a stand still but under a load test it may drop voltage quickly. Are you getting voltage from the truck to hot 12v pin?? Is it doing it before you plug into the truck or after ? As soon as you plug it in or after using it awhile? ….,,, Are you getting voltage to the axle brake pin at the bumper ? If it worked before then it should not be wiring unless a wire broke or lost connection. …. You may have a bad ground. The ball and hitch is not always enough ground. May sure there is a dedicated wire just for ground.
OP
Hay Dude
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2012
- Messages
- 16,854
- Tractor
- Challenger MT655E, Massey Ferguson 7495, Challenger MT535B, Krone 4x4 XC baler, Kubota F3680 & ZD331 Ram 5500 Cummins 4x4, IH 7500 4x4 dump truck, Kaufman 35’ tandem 19 ton trailer, John Deere CX-15
That’s because I am farming about 12-15 hours per day and sleeping/eating the rest of the time.
Also, I like reading allowing others to give their ideas. But seriously, no I have not had time to look at much more than connection security and making sure everything looks correct. I will buy another fresh battery for the battery box issue, but something tells me the battery box itself may be the problem.
Remember this: My other trailer‘s brakes work perfectly. So it’s likely not the truck.
OP
Hay Dude
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2012
- Messages
- 16,854
- Tractor
- Challenger MT655E, Massey Ferguson 7495, Challenger MT535B, Krone 4x4 XC baler, Kubota F3680 & ZD331 Ram 5500 Cummins 4x4, IH 7500 4x4 dump truck, Kaufman 35’ tandem 19 ton trailer, John Deere CX-15
I noticed there were non-weatherproofed crimp connectors there.
dodge man
Super Star Member
One thing I suggested earlier was jacking the trailer up and having someone step on the brake pedal to see if the brakes work. I remembered I did this in the past and it doesn’t really work because a lot of brake controllers sense momentum and if the trucks not moving. As I recall when I did this the brakes did work but I could spin the wheel by hand easily. Maybe try it on gravel and have someone watch.
John0829
Veteran Member
Yeah I am aware of making a living getting in the way of doing things, well past that now. Sleeping not so much but eating, usually on the run, for sure.
I remember you saying the brakes on your other trailer were still working, so the truck is out of the picture. I agree the most likely problem with the break-away in the electronics of the battery box.
At least you have crimp connectors, all the connections on my trailer when it was bought were vampire splices like these.
IMHO they should outlaw those things, the way I see it manufacturers use them for cheap fast connections that will work long enough to get the trailers off the lot.
alpha&omega
Bronze Member
Absolutely! Heck, they are lucky if they work that long. I’ve done trailer shopping in the past where not all of the lights worked and the sales guy tried telling me (or the person I was shopping with) that it HAD to be an issue with the vehicle, since ALL of their trailers get tested EVERY morning. Right…and you guys only use the top of the line tires on your trailers correct?