Water Pipe

RJohnson · Apr 12, 2001

Eventually when I build my retirement house at the lake, I will have to run a water line from the co-ops line to the house. I am concerned about the following:
1) Line will have to run about 1800 feet.
2) Line will drops about 20 feet before rising about 35 feet.
3) Worried about pressure loss and joining 20 foot joints of PVC pipe.
4) What diameter pipe should I be looking at?

I originally was to looking at coiled polyethylene pipe (to eliminate joints and potential leaks). There are some new products in the marketplace offering the polyethylene pipe (PEX) and it appears to offer me a solution to my problem.
I was wondering if any of you have faced a similiar problem and what did you finally end up using, or am I barking up the wrong tree (it wouldn't be the first time either /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif).

Boondox · Apr 12, 2001

My springhouse is about that far from the home, and I used 1.5" coiled polyethylene buried deep to avoid (for the most part) freezing. There's a lot to be said for minimizing joints in a run that long. Not sure about the rise and drop question, since mine is a straight shot gravity-fed arrangement.

I'm an absolute fan of PEX, having used it to replumb my 160 year old farmhouse. That said, it has limitations. Cost is one; the stuff is much more expensive than PE. It doesn't last long when exposed to sunlight for another. For household use I consider it without equal, but for the above reasons I wouldn't use it outside.

My $0.02. Pete

www.GatewayToVermont.com

mbjacobs · Apr 12, 2001

If it were me I would use 2" pipe. Your net rise of 15 feet will cost you about 6 psi. 1.5" pipe will lose about another 7 psi at 10 gpm while 2" will only lose about 2 psi at 10 gpm. These numbers are for straight pipe and ignore the loses at joints and fittings. 10 gpm is probably high for most uses so your drops would usually be less than what I've listed, I'm just being conservative.

Maury Jacobs

RJohnson · Apr 13, 2001

Boondox,
That was my thought also, I have seen various manufacturers and they have different colors. Do you remember the manufacturer of your PE pipe and was it marked for potable water? I am leaning towards 2" pipe but I am unsure yet if the co-op has anything bigger than 3/4" connection at the meter.

mbjacobs,
I did the calculations and was looking at about a 6 psi pressure loss which was why I was leaning toward 2" pipe.
Thanks for your help guys.

Randy

Boondox · Apr 14, 2001

Randy -- Sorry, but I don't remember ever asking for the manufacturer. It was from my local hardware store and was rated for potable water. Small town. If the hardware store sells cheap stuff he loses many a customer, so we trust his judgement and he takes care of our needs.

Pete

www.GatewayToVermont.com

TraderMark · Apr 15, 2001

Randy,
A holding tank at your house might help with pressure stability.

I know several people who have run long runs of pipe to different buidlings and they almost always put a tank at the building. Something like a 42 gallon well tank with an air volume control would probably work for a residential setup. Since you are going to be at a higher level than the co-op pipes, you might want to consider a one way check too.

roysallis · Apr 16, 2001

I have run almost 3000 ft of water line on my property. Before I did this I discussed it with a friend that works for a water department. I also checked with the water department that supplies the water at my farm.They both suggested I use Schedule 40 2inch slip joint PVC. You will probably have to use a reducer at the meter and at your house. The pipe is easy to put together. When you buy the pipe they will either give you some joint lube or you may have to buy it. The pipe is belled at one end and athe other end is slightly beveled. Just lube the rubber gasket in the belled end and slip the beveled end of the nest piece into it. It is a lot easiesr with 2 people. One to lube the gasket and the other to insert the beveled end and twist and push. Just make sure you have it pushed all the way in and do not let it slip out when you lower it in the trench. Make sure the trench is clear of any rocks. The pipe will move slightly as the water is turned on and off even though it is covered with dirt. If there are any rocks touching the pipe it may eventually rub a hole in the pipe. The ideal situation is to put sand in the bottom of the trench and then cover the pipe with sand. If you have to make use 45s or 90s you will have to cut the pipe and glue them on. If you use any 45s or 90s you will have to support them on either side with stakes or concrete to keep them from blowing out. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT PUT ANY WATER PRESSURE ON THE LINE UNTIL YOU HAVE BURIED THE PIPE AND SECURED ALL 45S AND 90S. IF YOU DO'T THE JOINST WILL BLOW APART. I am speaking from experience. Be sure to check with your local water department to find out what they recommend and how much pressure you will have on you side of the water meter. Also ask them if you will need a pressure regulator/reducer at the meter and/or at your house.