Water leveling?

[LDR812]

Hi - I’m trying to lay a bit of field tile - the 4 inch junk that Homedepot and Lowes sells. Also I’m putting some catch basins and running them into schedule 40 (4 inch) . I’ve watched it rain out here a couple years and have a basic idea of run off / grade. I’ve also checked it using 100 ‘ of clear poly vynal 3/8 id tubing for a “water level” driving metal posts and securing the poly hose at 100’ or so. Looks like I have about half a degree of fall. That complicates things. The a schedule 40 is just being used where I know it will be driven over - but in that same trench I’d like to put perforated pipe.
Anyway - any experience using water levels and accuracy? I’m in the 1/2 degree slope by what I read. Both by water level and string line. Metal post set about 100 foot apart

 

[dodge man]

It doesn’t take batteries so it can’t be accurate.

Im a land surveyor and in my 40 years of experience I’ve never used a water level. I’ve read about a water level though and if you set it up correctly it’s 100% accurate and as good or better than anything else. Set up correctly I would take it to mean the tube isn’t dry anywhere or the water isn’t hitting the top.

If my math is correct a 1/2 degree slope is about 10 inches of fall in a 100 feet which is doable.

 

[ponytug]

@LDR812 What is the project? Why do you want perforated and solid in the same trench?

If the perforated is above the solid pipe, it can be done, but I would never, ever, use flexible perforated pipe underground. It crushes and wears out too quickly. There is a flexible 3x8" geotextile wrapped material that both drains and channels water, but it needs a cover depth of gravel to not crush, and it needs to drain into solid PVC/ABS below that, all of which pushes your exit depth lower.

I have used water levels and level transits. Both are quite accurate. Like anything, there is always the opportunity for user error.

Like @dodge man, I get 10.4"/100ft for your half degree slope. Water isn't going to move quickly at that slope, but it will move. The challenge will be leveling the pipe in the trench to that level of accuracy. String sags, and an 8' level only gets you so far. If you have more than a little water, you might be happier with a larger pipe.

I had a similar project, and bit the bullet and bought an adjustable rotating laser and stick. That enabled me to dial in the target pipe slopes easily, and quickly, and it was absolutely worth the price. The project was subsurface drainage under an outside arena, requiring two different slopes in two perpendicular directions. I've used it a few times since, and once it absolutely saved me tens of thousands on a concrete pour that the contractor was sure would work, and I was sure wouldn't work. With the laser, and stick, I was able to show him that he was not going to get the slope that he needed over about fifty foot portion of the project which was a non-starter. With the laser and stick, I was able to quickly lay out the slope that he (and I) needed, and things could go back to working.

You might consider renting a laser level if you do not see the need recurring, but I would use one either way for this because I suspect that the pipe laying will be very, very, fiddly otherwise.

All the best,

Peter

 

[LDR812]

I’m going to lay lay some catch basins in the low spots and have those run out threw solid pipe. Beside that I plan to lay some perforated pipe to gather up and drain the slop that is left over

 

[dodge man]

There is no reason you can’t put catch basins on a slotted pipe.

 

[LDR812]

I’d like to have it all 18 inches buried in the ground - but will most likely have mounds over the pipes because I don’t have enough fall

 

[LDR812]

Dodge Man - yea, trying to think through that. For sure if we get 3 inches or more an hour - want that to have a clear path and then the perforated drain can clean up- that’s what I’m thinking

 

[grsthegreat]

I have used water levels in the past, and still own a 100’ kit. The only issue ive had in the past is when temps swing drastically during the day.

when i built my house i used a water level to set the foundation as i did not have any help to view thru my transit. This was in the days before laser levels. When i got all done i shot points all around and it was all level. Could not have done any better with a laser level.

 

[bcp]

About the tubing for a water level: Instead of a very long clear tubing, get about 4-6 feet of 1/2 in clear, cut it in half, add a male hose fitting to one piece and a female to the other. Use one or more of your garden hoses in between. You can use more hoses with a valve and a garden hose Y to fill the water level from your house faucet after you get it into place.



Bruce

 

[ponytug]

About the tubing for a water level: Instead of a very long clear tubing, get about 4-6 feet of 1/2 in clear, cut it in half, add a male hose fitting to one piece and a female to the other. Use one or more of your garden hoses in between. You can use more hoses with a valve and a garden hose Y to fill the water level from your house faucet after you get it into place.

View attachment 856931

Bruce

That's how mine is rigged!