water in hydrolics

[mffarmall]

I got some water in my hydrolics. I am planning on changing it out 3 times over the next few months. Is there an additive that can help clean the water out of the system?

 

[Bob Rooks]

How did so much water get into the system that average operating temperature of 150° to 160° wouldn't evaporate it off; which is how normal condensation is dispersed.

Completely flushing the system three times with fresh oil, as you said, should be sufficient to remove any water, performed correctly. You could also call in a specialist to clean & polish your oil.

Example: Oil Flushing & Polishing Services from Delta Tech Service, Inc.

 

[mffarmall]

That sounds good. But I was wondering if there is something like Lucas that I can put in to help seperate the water out so it can be flushed and not stay in the bottom.

 

[Bob Rooks]

I know what operation will remove the water from emulsified oil but I'm reluctant to divulge it due to the high imminent risk involved.

You can always decant it and drain it off.
I don't know what you mean by "Lucas".

Better yet, if you're near a farm with a milking machine, you can centrifuge the oil to remove the water (use a smaller paring disc, and clean it thoroughly after use.)

 

[RonMar]

How did so much water get into the system that average operating temperature of 150ｰ to 160ｰ wouldn't evaporate it off; which is how normal condensation is dispersed.

My first thought also... IF you set up carefully, you can probably get the lions share with 2 changes, and the rest should evap with some good op temps. I would not add anything to the oil, nor do I know of anything that you can add to the oil to help get the water out. You could drain and spin the oil, or heat and allow the water to separate and drain it off the bottom or evap...

 

[Brad_Blazer]

Water removers are typically sold as fuel additives.
STP - All Season Water Remover
You could experiment with a small (teaspoon) proportional amount of oil, water, and fuel drying additive in a clear container and see how it behaves. It may work to add it and run for a short while before draining.

If your fluid is milky any additve will probably get used up by suspended water before it has a chance to attack any water in the sump. So, if it's milky just change it and make sure the sump is empty even if you have to vacuum it out.

 

[greg_g]

I'm not sure, but I don't think either centrifuging or additives will work with oil that's already emulsified. I think a good flush (or three) is required to rinse out the emulsification that's clinging. Then if water contamination looks like it's going to be an ongoing issue, consider an inline separator. Get the water out before emulsification occurs. If a separator proves unavailable or impractical, consider the sediment bowl concept (low pressure side of course). Water will "sink" to the bottom, just dump it occasionally.

//greg//

 

[Soundguy]

Seafoam transtune is SPECIFICALLY made to dewater a sump.. it grabs the water in soloution ( not suspension / emulsion ) ad it.. let it mix.. change the oil.. safe for trans oils and hyd oils..

soundguy

 

[greg_g]

S.. it grabs the water in soloution ( not suspension / emulsion )

Well - if it works as advertised - that's something to use AFTER the system is well flushed and refilled with fresh fluid. Cuz right now I'm bettin' on a high degree of emulsification has already set in (and coated everything).

//greg//

 

[Soundguy]

Id wager that since it grabs water in soloution.. that it will solvate emulsified water already in the system.

soundguy

 

[Bob Rooks]

Seafoam transtune is SPECIFICALLY made to dewater a sump.. it grabs the water in soloution ( not suspension / emulsion ) ad it.. let it mix.. change the oil.. safe for trans oils and hyd oils..
soundguy

Absolutely amazing! Learn something new every day

 

[mffarmall]

Thanks for the help. Changed out the hyd twice and it went from a butter churn. To a gravy (turkey color). System seems to be faster. Is there a heavier hyd/trans fluid that would be better then THF or AW-32?

 

[greg_g]

The "gravy" color of your hydraulic fluid means the system is still dirty. That's why a kerosene flush is so very often recommended. Clean hydraulic fluid should be so clear, that it's difficult to even see on the dipstick.

AW32 has the viscosity equivalency similar to that of a 10W engine oil. Then the higher the number, the thicker the fluid. AW46 and 68 are in the 20W range, AW100 moves into 30W territory, et cetera.

But many folks in cold country have found that using anything thicker than AW32 requires too much warm up time before the steering and hydraulic work. I say this, because many universal (THF) fluids are very often in 30W territory.

//greg//

 

[mffarmall]

So, is there a kerosene flush that I can look for? I read the seafoam and yes it should work, but I want to say old school unless I need to get creative.

Questions: changed out for 3rd time.
1. how long before I change it weeks, day, a month, 10 tractor hours?
2. What color should the 3rd change be?

 

[greg_g]

So, is there a kerosene flush that I can look for?

Yup. Plain old kerosene from the pump. Diesel fuel will work too - but kero give a better flush, and drains out better than diesel.

1. how long before I change it weeks, day, a month, 10 tractor hours?
2. What color should the 3rd change be?

Drain the turkey gravy out now. Flush immediately. I use a cheese cloth to strain what comes out. That way I can evaluate the big chunks, and the kero can be re-used for subsequent flushing. To maximize the cleansing, overfill the sump with kero - start the tractor - then exercise all the hydraulics, including steering. You want to flush the sump, the pump,. cylinders, hoses, screens, valves, everything.

Like I said before; after an effective flush, the hydraulic fluid should be so clear that you have a hard time even seeing it on the dipstick.

//greg//

 

[Soundguy]

If I were flushin with kero. I'd dump in a couple bottles of 90% alchhol so at least it will grab some water in soloution.

soundguy

 

[mffarmall]

So I would like to thank all of the sound bits on this problem. I drained and added new hyd. Then I put some sea foam. There is two kinds one that works with the hydrolics and diff. I used that one. Added it. Everything has been working better. Then I was in town and saw a guy working on a Korean Tractor. He was putting diesel into his hyd. He said that he uses it to clean out the system. I tried it (kiro $8.00, Dies $2.30) Used it to flush and everything runs really fast. I went and drove around, played FEL. Then I flushed this and added more and it is looking clear. I will flush it and put in hyd after opening every valve and cleaning out the diesel.

 

[mffarmall]

The best part "well sort of" some one has been driving up to tanks and filling up under the moon light around the area. So I am more then happy to help them by giving them a new tank located out by the road filled with my new fuel.

 

[mffarmall]

Changed out the diesel and got a good lift out of it. Might look at keeping it in? Could the hyp pump burn out with such a light mix?

 

[Soundguy]

Thinner oil than recomended.. ( real thin if it is diesel ) could possibly cause cavitation.. which could eat the pump. IMHO.. I'd run the reccomended weight / type of oil based on temperature and manufacturers specs.

It's not like the 60 year old tractors where the manufacturer said to add a quart of kerosene to the 90w hyd/gear/tranny oil to thin it during winter.. etc.

soundguy