Vtek V2 Loader

[cwrighttractors]

Cardoc,

You are not far off but there is a mathematical equation that can give the best results. Though I do not know exactly how the math works it has something to do with the cylinder diameter, pressure, and distance to the pivot pens and beyond. I am sure if one did a little research on the interenet one could find it.

 

[Scotty Dive]

So....I reached out to VN-1 this morning via email (actually Facebook) and asked for their specs. Here is what I received.


VN-1 Tractor: Depends on the size of the tractor and the loader but as a general rule V1 -1200lb lift. V2 - 1500lb lift V3 and V4 - 2000lb lift. We can build to fit almost any size tractor and have replacement parts in stock. Quick-connect buckets, self-leveling, single joystick control.


Certainly different from what Cwright mentioned earlier. Not complaining...Actually, I guess I am. Just want to get some solid and standard answers

 

[cwrighttractors]

Scotty,

I would be real hesitant to believe these numbers with the exception of the
V3 and V4, they may lift 2000lbs. But I now for a fact there is no way the V1 and V2 will lift that amount. Lets think about this logically...first the V1 and V2 are for smaller tractors. Normally you will see a V1 on a 15 to 20hp tractor. Would you want to lift 1200lb with a Yanmar YM1500? The V2 is typically seen on 22 to 28hp tractors, again would you want a Yanmar 2610 to lift 1600lbs.

If you are looking for specs simply to decide which loader to buy I would try and find someone that owns one to tell you their experiences with the loader. I do not believe you were given the correct specs on these loaders. Secondly VN can put one of these loaders on just about any gray market tractor out there but do not expect them to be able to put one on say American branded tractors like Case, International, Deere, and the like. Now having said that these loaders will work with the above mentioned tractors but VN does not have the technical capabilities of building the mounting brackets needed for many tractors.

I am not saying this to speak ill of the poeple at VN as I believe they are good folks just being honest.

 

[Car Doc]

Here is the weak link adding loaders to our YM tractors from my point of view- it's the front tires they are on the small side and dont carry a real high load rating. edit: especially OEM type rice tires now US spec tires may well have more load rating I can only speculate.

I bet any loader we put on that fits these will out lift by quite a ways what the tractor will actually safely handle. Watching how they act would be a good way to tell what the safe actual lift is thats how I do mine anyway. I have overloaded mine quite a few times and my tires are where I see it most.(OEM type Brigestone rice tires fwtw.)

They never were designed to carry that extra load the front axles are plenty strong up to a point but like I say the tires are the limiting factor imho.

 

[woodcarver11]

Scotty, I bought my 1610D from Josef tractors and I didn't receive any specs on the loader other than they said the V2 was built for heavier use than the V1. The level gauge that Cardoc fabricated works great,I use it every time I use the loader,I don't know how I'd get along without it. I agree that the tires are definately the limiting factor.

 

[Scotty Dive]

Can you share a picture or two of that level gauge cardoc built for you?

Thanks for that info...all I am trying to do is get some accurate info for the VTEK loader...I have the V2. I find it works great and looks well built.

I think its pretty clear from what cwright's real work expereince and what VN1 is telling me that there is confusion as to what they are rated at.

 

[winston1]

I built a level indicator for my bulldog awhile back. I got the idea from a picture of a John Deere loader. It works pretty good. Daylight comes I'll take a picture or two. Not saying it is the best but it works.

 

[winston1]

As promised, here is my contraption, for what it is worth. Works ok for me.

Picture 1 shows the little paint line on the 5/16" metal rod right at the 2x6 rod guide. This is the level position (parallel to tractor). When I am wanting to made a shallow cut with the bucket I would move the top of the paint line down to the guide.

Picture 2 shows the bucket curled completely and a good view of the 3/4" block that rotates on the bucket pin and the 5/16" rod is pinned in it.

Picture 3 shows the rod position when bucket is fully curled under.

Picture 4 I am just trying to show a good view of the 3/4" attaching block.

Picture 5 shows the rod position when bucket is curled back all the way.

This might not work if you have tie rod cylinders or numerous other reasons I suppose. It will work on a Bulldog 285 loader.

 

[clemsonfor]

My loader is not a QD

Also - I believe you are right that these are made in China - What is interesting is that some of my components are stamped with my model number (2020D) So they must make certain support brackets for certain tractors.

Here is a couple shots of my loader with my bucket shield - I hated to see water sit in the bucket when it rained.

Seems like a lot of work, why not just curl the bucket over?

 

[winston1]

The cylinder rods would be exposed to the elements.

 

[woodcarver11]

Scotty ,I took some pictures but I can't figure out how to post them.I'm not very sharp at this computer stuff. I'll check with Cardoc in a few days and see if he can help.

 

[clemsonfor]

Scotty ,I took some pictures but I can't figure out how to post them.I'm not very sharp at this computer stuff. I'll check with Cardoc in a few days and see if he can help.

When you click to reply look for for the button if you pull the screen down that says "manage attachments" its in the middle of the page, click it and it will pop up a window for you to search on your computer and find the pics that you want to post.

For example if you have then in a folder labled tractor on desktop, you will , inside this pop up box select desktop/then your tractor folder and then the pic you want.

Well let me back up after you click manage attachemts there is a few lines that will show up in a box and you click browse to the right of each line, then you can follow my abouve directions. Ones you choose your pics there is a button on the top or bottom (cant remmember) that says "upload" or something, click that then wait till its ready then close that pop up box and you can write some text then hit submit reply.

Its way easier than it sounds and if you drop by CD's house or shop, he can show you in 15 seconds.

 

[Scotty Dive]

That is an interesting leveler.....Would this work...... 1 inch idameter pipe with a slit cut out on top and then insert a ping ball painted yellow - cap the ends. Mount this to the top of the bucket and when the yellow ball is centered the bucket is level?

 

[winston1]

Wonder if movement and possibly wind could have a bad effect on the ball? Here is where I got my idea. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...-300cx-front-end-loader-bucket-jd-level-1.jpg

 

[winston1]

Here is the kit. John Deere 210 410 419 420 Loader Level Indicator Kit | eBay

 

[Car Doc]

Scotty,

Until woodcarver gets pics on here I have food for thought for you guys at least-

I went to True Value and bought a 1/2" steel tube 3' long and a 3' steel rod that fit inside it. 3/8" I think maybe 7/16" dont remember but it slid easy inside but not too loose.

Then got a steel turn buckle and a 1/2" opening threaded clevis that was 3/8 or 7/16 to match the rod and cut the tube to about 2' and welded the clevis and turn buckle at the bucket end of the rod and drilled a hole thru the side of the bucket bracket for the clevis pin.

Then I welded a 2" long sleeve I cut out of the tube in the middle of the tube for the pivot of the tube and drilled and tapped a hole into the loader arm and installed a bolt with a lock nut to secure it good so it wouldn't back out.

Then I leveled the bucket on the shop floor with all the tires aired up properly and adjusted the rod and sprayed some florescent orange paint on the upper tip of the rod for visibility.

All totaled 60 minutes and $27 approximately. :thumbsup:

 

[clemsonfor]

Scotty,

Until woodcarver gets pics on here I have food for thought for you guys at least-

I went to True Value and bought a 1/2" steel tube 3' long and a 3' steel rod that fit inside it. 3/8" I think maybe 7/16" dont remember but it slid easy inside but not too loose.

Then got a steel turn buckle and a 1/2" opening threaded clevis that was 3/8 or 7/16 to match the rod and cut the tube to about 2' and welded the clevis and turn buckle at the bucket end of the rod and drilled a hole thru the side of the bucket bracket for the clevis pin.

Then I welded a 2" long sleeve I cut out of the tube in the middle of the tube for the pivot of the tube and drilled and tapped a hole into the loader arm and installed a bolt with a lock nut to secure it good so it wouldn't back out.

Then I leveled the bucket on the shop floor with all the tires aired up properly and adjusted the rod and sprayed some florescent orange paint on the upper tip of the rod for visibility.

All totaled 60 minutes and $27 approximately. :thumbsup:

You about half lost me here. i bout need a pic to understand this!

 

[Car Doc]

Hahaha sorry it is a little lengthy of course I see it perfectly. :laughing:

 

[RacinJason]

Interesting thread on VTEK Loaders here. I have a YM1702D with a V2 w/the qwik change bucket. I had emailed, I believe< Josef to see if there were any QC attachments available. No reply.

 

[capt1989]

I put a V2 loader on my YM2000 about 4 years ago (maybe longer, I lose track of time to much these days). I don't have any specifics but it will definitely lift more than the front end is capable of handling. It is part of the reason I had to weld my front axle back together. The other part was poor judgement. I have wondered if there was something wrong with the bucket hydraulics as it would load the engine sometimes just to curl the empty bucket, but not to move it to the dump position. I posed a question about it years ago on this forum and someone gave a decent answer but I don't remember the specifics. You can search my old posts if you want. The loader has otherwise functioned without a hitch since I put it on, and I have really abused it, and the tractor, over the years. Make sure to periodically check the sub frame mounting bolts as they can loosen over time. A tooth bar will help if digging or moving a bunch of logs or trees cause it can get under them. I have a LW6 backhoe waiting at home to put on the back of the little yanmar when I get off the boat this time. I am going to mount it on a sub frame and tie it into the sub frame for the FEL. Should be an interesting and fun project. Hope I have the time to get to it before I have to leave again.
Good luck with your search for specifications.

Capt.