Vise (vice) on ballast/counterweight?

[ruffdog]

As far as the slop between the hitch insert and receiver, I have made shims from old license plates. I found the aluminum is the right thickness to take up the slop. The shim is only on two sides and has a hole for the pin. I squeeze the license plate flat first in the press or you could hammer it flat.

 

[Eagle1]

Thanks, guys. Looks like it will a receiver hitch.

Ideas for reducing play between the tongue and the receiver? I was thinking a nut on the receiver and a bolt to put pressure on the tongue? ATM, I don't have welding facilities on the property, so I can't weld a nut onto the receiver. I might have to wait until I can weld on site.

Until then a wedge and hammer will tighten her right up.

 

[LouNY]

Couple of nice ways to tighten a hitch up;
a bit expensive,

quite a bit less expensive;

 

[kenlip]

How about something like this? The vertical (green) would be at a length that will bring the top of the plate (blue) level with the top of the ballast block.

I am not worried about it being too low, as I am a 'shorty'. I can raise the block to give me a comfortable working height

I envisage that 99% of the use of the vice will be for chainsaw sharpening, but who knows - I might find more uses for it once I have it?

 

[kenlip]

Couple of nice ways to tighten a hitch up;

Thanks.

Both doable. I could weld up the square clamp at home (Sydney) even though I don't (yet) have welding options on the rural property. On the other hand, the U-bolt idea looks pretty neat.

 

[kenlip]

If you were concerned about the stick out from the back when you're getting around, you could pin the receiver between the uprights for transport. Weld a couple tabs on or something. That's a little bit of ballast!

Approximately 850kg!

My FEL can just cope at 1,000 Kg (1 ton or tonne). Any attempt to lift 1 ton with the forks would result in the rear wheels lifting. Not a good idea, for many reasons! With this ballast the tractor stays rock solid. I went for more weight to try to reduce the 'stick-out', as I have to maneuver in some pretty tight spots.

 

[kenlip]

I just had a couple of thoughts ....

I could weld a nut inside the tongue, where the hole for the pin is, and use a bolt from the outside to snug the tongue in the receiver.

I might first try simply threading the wall of the tongue. After all, it is not load bearing so the stresses on the threads will be small.

 

[tacticalturnip]

Thanks, guys. Looks like it will a receiver hitch.

Ideas for reducing play between the tongue and the receiver? I was thinking a nut on the receiver and a bolt to put pressure on the tongue? ATM, I don't have welding facilities on the property, so I can't weld a nut onto the receiver. I might have to wait until I can weld on site.

Wood shim.

 

[BadDecisions]

EDIT...oops, just saw your reply saying basically the same thing.. didn't show up for me before I started this reply

I have one of the cheap Chinese adjustable height hitches that I use on my Vitara (which I believe was sold as the Escudo in Australia) for my smaller trailers. The amount of slop resulted in knocking over every bump, and drove me nuts in about 5 minutes.

Drilled the front, threaded it for a 1/4-20 bolt, ran it down until just snug and then tightened the nut against it to lock it in place, and has worked awesome for several years now.

Depending on how thick that receiver tube is, you may be able to do the same, maybe with a fine thread if need be. Since it's just taking up space for a vise, it wouldn't need to hold a ton of lateral load.

Yeah, I know it's missing a pin..stole it for another hitch

 

[kayco53]

Love the idea of a vise on the counter weight. Now I have to do it. My vise bolted to a stump is rotting anyway.