Very light duty "real" forks

[bx24]

I have read several threads about homemade fork assemblies, but I have always been frustrated by the weight of the forks themselves. Since my BX24 will only lift around 500-600 lbs with the FEL, I did not want to put traditional Class II forks on that weight almost 100 lbs each (I have a pair right now and I weighed them). Given that I cannot use the extra strength capacity, I would much rather lift that much more using lighter duty forks.

I found this site that has a "micro setup" that should work well for small tractors (originally designed for Toro Dingos???). They are rated at 900 lbs (well below what is needed for bigger tractors), but at 84 lbs for the set, they should be perfect for sub-compacts. They seem to have any size fork anyone could possibly want, but I have yet to find forks designed this small.

The raw forks were something like $130 for 36" versions, and $10 bucks more for the 42" versions (just the raw forks, no tube. If you want the tubes welded on top - add about $30). Both lengths had the same $50 shipping charge. The whole frame setup ran somewhere in the $500 range.

One could argue that simply using box tube or heavy angle iron would do the same thing, but for not that much more, these seem reasonable to have solid heat treated forks.

Micro Pallet Forks for Compact Skid Steers

 

[Rio_Grande]

It looks good to me for what you intend to do with it. .

 

[johnray13]

BX-

I made clamp on forks for my BX24 using 2x5 steel channel about 32" long. While they work well for small jobs, the forks are so far out in front of the lift point, your actual lift capacity is reduced dramatically. The farther out in front the load is, the less the capacity

For example: I can only lift about 7 sheets of 3/4" plywood but have put twelve 80 lb bags of concrete in the bucket and been able to lift it several inches off the ground, enough to transport it. Your limiting factor is pushing the load too far out in front of the lift point.

What you are considering would increase your lift well beyond clamp on forks, plus you lose the weight of the bucket. Your only hurdle is removing the bucket and tilt cylinder so it won't be too much of a PITA and fitting a mounting bracket for the forks.

John

 

[kubota2630]

Looks good. I would also like a light set of forks. I'm waiting for my tractor now. It will be delivered this week. Then I will look in to making forks or buying them.

 

[bx24]

I keep talking about this, but hopefully in the next couple of months I will get everything together I need (from a scrap metal perspective) to convert my traditional FEL bucket into a quick release style (a hybrid of a JD and skid steer setup). From there I will make a whole fork frame that will enable me to carry the load closer to the tractor for more power.

Once done, I will post some pics .....

 

[MX5000]

I have read several threads about homemade fork assemblies, but I have always been frustrated by the weight of the forks themselves. Since my BX24 will only lift around 500-600 lbs with the FEL, I did not want to put traditional Class II forks on that weight almost 100 lbs each (I have a pair right now and I weighed them). Given that I cannot use the extra strength capacity, I would much rather lift that much more using lighter duty forks.

I found this site that has a "micro setup" that should work well for small tractors (originally designed for Toro Dingos???). They are rated at 900 lbs (well below what is needed for bigger tractors), but at 84 lbs for the set, they should be perfect for sub-compacts. They seem to have any size fork anyone could possibly want, but I have yet to find forks designed this small.

The raw forks were something like $130 for 36" versions, and $10 bucks more for the 42" versions (just the raw forks, no tube. If you want the tubes welded on top - add about $30). Both lengths had the same $50 shipping charge. The whole frame setup ran somewhere in the $500 range.

One could argue that simply using box tube or heavy angle iron would do the same thing, but for not that much more, these seem reasonable to have solid heat treated forks.

Micro Pallet Forks for Compact Skid Steers

I just ordered a set of the 36" forks this morning for @ $137.00 and @ $50.00 for shipping. The guy said they come with 1" tubes welded on already. They're going on an "06" B21 and will be used to move cordwood stored on pallets. It'll be nice to have a set of forks. Thanks for the info BX24. I visited that site a bunch of times before, but never notice the 36" forks and didn't know they were so inexpensive. thanks again.

Howard

Howard

 

[ChuckinNH]

ATI has forks for the BX that replace the bucket, and so move things closer to the pivot pins. Unfortunately, they have discontinued the quick change they offered for the loader, so it is more of a problem to change back, and forth.

 

[WVBill]

I have a B6100 that has only a 500 lb or so capacity in the bucket. I made a set of forks myself - out of wood 2x4's.

Basically, I put a piece of angle iron along the top edge of the bucket to form a "lip". Then I made two "Els" out of wood. The vertical member of each L is cut to the vertical distance fom the bucket bottom to the inside of the lip on the upper edge minus 1 1/2" (the thickness of the bottom 2x4). The horizontal member of the L (the "fork") is cut to a lenght that will extend about three feet beyond the front edge of the bucket.

I wedge each "fork" into the bucket. The lip on the top edge holds the vertical member in. The 2x4's fit nicely between the teeth on my tooth bar so that gives them left - right stability.

I don't know what the weight capacity of these are but I've stood on the front edge of each one and I weign 260 lbs so together their capacity exceeds the lift capacity of the FEL.

Cost - scrap 2x4s. Added weight - not much.

I wouldn't lift anything valuable with them, though.

WVBill

 

[LBrown59]

Looks good. I would also like a light set of forks. I'm waiting for my tractor now. It will be delivered this week. Then I will look in to making forks or buying them.

Check out pains forks.
I like my clamp ons.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

I know a fellow with a 40 or so Hp David Brown, unsure of the FELs capacity but he had a single 6" forklift fork he picked up somewhere, took a few zip cuts and his angle grinder and ground the fork in 1/2.
I'm sure a 4" fork could be split and would work fine for lifting 500 lbs, a pair or 4" are rated 3000 to 4000 lb capacity depending on the manufacturer.
Regards
Ken

 

[bx24]

OK, to Ken's point, I am going to change the topic of this thread to

"How do I cut a fork in half lengthwise" with the inferred adder: "Without taking forever or screwing up the heat treating"

As I mentioned, I have forks right now that I could cut in half, but I could not think of a good way to do this.

Torch is sloppy and I would think screw up the heat treating as I sliced up the 1.5 thick (or so) "thick end"

Plasma cutter will only cut to 3/4"

Swing the band saw vertical and muddle my way through?

To end up with a clean solution, I like the band saw idea, but how long would that take?

 

[skidsteer.ca]

I'd have to ask ask Henry sometime, but I could not see it taking forever. Those zip cut blades are only .040 thick and his job looked factory. I'd guess between 1 and 2 hours
If a band saw will survive cutting it that could work for most of it
Ken

 

[johnray13]

I have no idea. But I bet you'll get some crazy suggetions if you start a new thread, "How do I cut a forklift fork in half ?"

Good luck,
John

 

[mopacman]

I used my forks for a saw horse until I sawed about half way through one fork with a skillsaw with a carbide blade in it. Might give that a try.

 

[dfkrug]

OK, to Ken's point, I am going to change the topic of this thread to

"How do I cut a fork in half lengthwise" with the inferred adder: "Without taking forever or screwing up the heat treating"

As I mentioned, I have forks right now that I could cut in half, but I could not think of a good way to do this.

Torch is sloppy and I would think screw up the heat treating as I sliced up the 1.5 thick (or so) "thick end"

Plasma cutter will only cut to 3/4"

Swing the band saw vertical and muddle my way through?

To end up with a clean solution, I like the band saw idea, but how long would that take?

I made a couple of sets of the forks in the photo. They weigh 180#, and
I sacrificed length and adjustability to get lower weight. I started with fork
tines that were 36" long and 1 3/4" thick. They weighed about 100# ea. I
first welded hooks on the top to hang them from the bkt of my L2550,
after welding a chunk of 1x1 steel to the top of the bkt. I improved on
that by making the frame in the photo. I paid a steel distributor to cut
the tines length-wise using their industrial plasma table, but they could not
cut the elbow part. A friend finished off the elbow cut with his 14" gas-
powered abrasive saw. There was no problem with the heat. This steel
is a very tough alloy that does not even rust.

Now, if I did another set, I would prob try one of those low-speed steel
circular saws (Evolution) with carbide-tipped blades.

 

[LBrown59]

I made a set of light dity bucket forks out of 2x2 lumber.
Can't get much lighter than that.

 

[ASGAR]

Check out pains forks.
I like my clamp ons.

I have the pains forks (northern tool sells them or on line from pains) and use them on by B7510 FEL. The Good: They go on and off fast, very well built, plenty strong for what the bucket can lift. The Bad: Further from lift point, clamp screws dent bucket, no real vertical surface to tilt the load back against, forks angle left and right if you try to nudge things sidewards with them, like lining up a pallet. I was going to weld up a stub to accept a 2x4 for each fork to form the back rest. If you can go the quick change route haveing the load closer to the lift point would be better. Overall the $300 was well spent on the pains forks bacause I got them immediatly and they do the job.

 

[ASGAR]

I made a couple of sets of the forks in the photo. They weigh 180#, and
I sacrificed length and adjustability to get lower weight. I started with fork
tines that were 36" long and 1 3/4" thick. They weighed about 100# ea. I
first welded hooks on the top to hang them from the bkt of my L2550,
after welding a chunk of 1x1 steel to the top of the bkt. I improved on
that by making the frame in the photo. I paid a steel distributor to cut
the tines length-wise using their industrial plasma table, but they could not
cut the elbow part. A friend finished off the elbow cut with his 14" gas-
powered abrasive saw. There was no problem with the heat. This steel
is a very tough alloy that does not even rust.

Now, if I did another set, I would prob try one of those low-speed steel
circular saws (Evolution) with carbide-tipped blades.

I have one of those 'slow' speed milwaukee 8" metal cutting hand held circular saws. The blades run about $45, the saw with a blade is $300ish. One blade cuts a very long time until you pinch the cut or hit a piece of rock, like the floor of the garage. With a straight edge to guide the saw, cutting through 1/4 steel is very fast, like cutting 3/4 plywood. Cutting through 3/4 mild steel is fairly fast, like few sec per inch. Overheating the tool is a problem for long cuts on heavy material (over 3/8 inch) so plan on a cooling off time. The point of this is that if the tines are not too hard, ie, wreck the carbide right away, I would clamp the tine to a sheet of plywood, clamp on a wood straight edge to guide the saw then expect a great looking straight cut down the middle of the tine in a few mins with no heating of the blade. If the tine is too hard, the blade will overheat fast then turn to a shower of sparks. I have cut up to 2" thick steel with this saw. I have also cut down snow plow wear edges that appeared to have some hardness to them without any issues. Overall, if you don't have access to a saw or heavy duty plasma cutter the idea of using a gas powered abrasive saw sounds like the cheapest option. If you keep flooding the tine with water during the cut, the heat affected zone of the cut should stay close to the cut, ie, not weaken the tine much. Personally, I am no good at cutting straight with gas cut off machines.

 

[bx24]

dfkrug

What did they get you for the "plasma cut" at the local shop?

That would seem to be the best way to go. If I were to go the other routes, buying the small set already made would seem to work out better. I like having additional tools, but the Milwaukee saw would probably sit in my shop too much to justify.

Either way, it will be a fun project ... thanks for all the ideas (and keep'em commin!)

 

[dfkrug]

What did they get you for the "plasma cut" at the local shop?

I paid a very expensive structural steel seller (PDM) $100 to cut all
but the right angle on one tine. That was nearly 10 y ago. You might
do better to shop around local steel fab shops, but I needed to cut
thru 1.75" of steel. My plasma cutter is only 40A, and good for 3/4" max.

You can get the Evolution saw with blade for $100 from HF Tools.