Valve stem guard

[Massey convert]

I use my tractor in the woods, and have torn a valve stem off in the past, I don't want it to happen again. I thought about welding a pipe nipple on the rim, but learned here that the tire should be de-mounted before any welding on the rim. I found some rusty angle iron and put these together...

 

[Smokeydog]

Those are heavy duty and should be great armor. Like the pipe nipple protectors on our tractors. Surprised you didn’t box, pipe or notch to provide access to the valve stems? You do have good protection now.

 

[Massey convert]

Smokeydog,
They are removable by removing two wheel nuts, hopefully I won't ever need access to the valve stems.

 

[WranglerX]

Think I would have ended angle with a sleeve so valve stem was still accessible with out having to remove anything....

Dale

 

[Massey convert]

Dale,
I'm not sure what you mean about a sleeve, or how it would fasten, and be removable. I can have any one of these off in a few minutes including getting the wrench.

 

[tradosaurus]

Another good reason to have wheels spaced just within the bucket width.

 

[Massey convert]

The wheels may have been just within the bucket width when I took delivery of the tractor but I moved them outabout 3 inches for a little more clearance for the tire chains. Funny thing was, I didn't need them this winter in the woods with four-wheel drive and diff lock. I sure wish I'd bought this tractor twenty years ago.

 

[Smokeydog]

Enjoyed your problem solving idea and post. Thanks for sharing. If removing some bolts to check air pressure works for you that’s fine. Your modifications work for you and that is most important. Having valve stem damage out in the woods in no fun. It was only a suggestion to have a piece of pipe/tubing welded to your angle iron frame that would give protection and easy access to the valve stem.

Saw where one fellow welded a pipe nipple around the valve stems and used threaded pipe caps to completely protect the stems.

Both my current tractors have factory rings welded to the rims to protect the valve stems from debris and mud.

Some of my tractor tires hold air better than others. Older equipment was better. Don’t know if the air leaks out or reacts with the newer rubber, sealant or ballast. Have switched to bolt in valve stems where I can has helped with some slow leaks.

 

[Massey convert]

Originally, I was going to weld pipe nipples to the rim, then use a pipe cap to cover the valve stem as you mentioned. BUT, after some research, I learned that welding to a wheel with the tire mounted can result in some very bad things happening very quickly.
Yesterday, as i was walking past my "old" tractor I noticed that one of the rear tires looked low. Those tires are loaded with calcium cloride, and yes indeedey, the vavle leaked when i removed the stem cap. I added air and after playing around a bit the valve quit leaking. Unfortunetly, the tubes do not have bolt in valve stems, and I may not be finished with the issue.
I had corn juice pumped into the rears on my new tractor, it is made using the by-products of ethanol production, and is only available at one tire store in our area.

 

[John_Mc]

Another good reason to have wheels spaced just within the bucket width.

If you are driving in the woods on anything other than prepared trails, I can tell you from personal experience that is not enough to protect your valve stems. (I had to learn it the hard way. Fortunately, the hit just created a moderate leak, so I was able to air up the trie and drive out of the woods to deal with it.)

I added this to my front wheels. One of these days, I'll paint it with something other than the primer I had on hand at the time. If I ever have my filled rear wheels removed, I'll add it to them as well. (So far, I have not had a problem with the valve stems on my rear wheels).