Using oil in a diesel engine that doesn't say for a diesel.

[kevin37b]

How did we farm in the old days without these specs . Keep it changed . Kevin .

 

[daman1]

True fact. Gasoline Engines have catalytic converters and diesels (some of them) have DPF's. And some of the additives don't play well with them..

Just run the correct oil.

Story: Back in the early 90's the EPA decided, unilaterally, to remove the additive ZDDP (Zinc-based) from motor oils. Catalytic Converters and Zinc don't get along. At all. (EPA and API work hand-in-hand.) ZDDP was, and still is, necessary for cars running flat-tappet camshafts. Sort of. Not so much anymore but.... 'nother story.

Anyhoo, they didn't tell anybody except the refiners. Even the Racing Teams sponsored by people like Mobil, Shell, etc didn't get told. Remember all the cars that were blowing engines for that one year in NASCAR? '94, maybe?

NASCAR ran Flat-Tappet camshafts back then. Probably still do. Don't know. Lost interest in Dinosaur racing. But that's why.

I run a synthetic in everything. Because I know how the EPA thinks. MPG means everything to them. Your engine blows? Oh well, sucks to be you. When they came out with their new Diesel Oil rating (CK-4?), Ford flipped out. They said, correctly, that it was junk. That it was too thin and that they wouldn't warranty engines that used it. I guess they had a meeting of the minds or something but it's calmed down since then.

 

[MHarryE]

Look for a guy “I Do Engines” on YouTube. He sells used engine and transmission parts. So many ways engines can fail, even the ones never known to fail along with many known as the worst engine xxxx ever built. Vast majority lube failures, not changing frequently, oil breakdown, and of course the old coolant in the oil. Spun bearings, scored pistons, rods through block. Save money on oil to be able to afford a rebuilt engine.

 

[jyoutz]

I can't think of any reason or gain in using the wrong oil in any engine. Only trouble. As a note, Menards here had six gallons of 15W45 T6.

I’m seeing T6 everywhere now, so they must have fixed the supply issues. But I switched to Valvoline premium synthetic diesel oil and am going to continue with that.

 

[deezler]

Honestly I can't see a basic little naturally aspirated Kubota diesel engine as truly needing a specific premium oil. The internal surface pressures are probably kept reasonably low as a better guarantee of engine longevity. Depending on how much soot the engine typically deposits into the oil, I would give a rough SWAG of 75% chance of complete success from running any basic gas oil in an N/A Kubota motor.

Would I choose to do it myself? No, I'd select a diesel rated oil. But if you change it say, twice as often, probably completely fine. It's still a modern synthetic engine oil capable of suspending contaminants and providing exceptional lubrication film quality under high pressures.

Also depends a bit on how you use the RTV. Towing heavy loads all the time, or plowing deep snow? Or just loafing around to carry a square bale or light tool box.

 

[MAX-24-Dean]

Honestly I can't see a basic little naturally aspirated Kubota diesel engine as truly needing a specific premium oil. The internal surface pressures are probably kept reasonably low as a better guarantee of engine longevity. Depending on how much soot the engine typically deposits into the oil, I would give a rough SWAG of 75% chance of complete success from running any basic gas oil in an N/A Kubota motor.

Would I choose to do it myself? No, I'd select a diesel rated oil. But if you change it say, twice as often, probably completely fine. It's still a modern synthetic engine oil capable of suspending contaminants and providing exceptional lubrication film quality under high pressures.

Also depends a bit on how you use the RTV. Towing heavy loads all the time, or plowing deep snow? Or just loafing around to carry a square bale or light tool box.

The small kubota diesels are good running engines, known for thier longevity. You can always change the history of thier longevity by using gasoline engine rated oils in them.

Glad you clarified that you would only use diesel rated oil yourself.

Always use oil "labeled" for use in diesel engines.
Diesel engine oils have Lubricity additives, and base detergent additives in the oil to aid in keeping acid content down.

 

[daman1]

Honestly I can't see a basic little naturally aspirated Kubota diesel engine as truly needing a specific premium oil. The internal surface pressures are probably kept reasonably low as a better guarantee of engine longevity. Depending on how much soot the engine typically deposits into the oil, I would give a rough SWAG of 75% chance of complete success from running any basic gas oil in an N/A Kubota motor.

Would I choose to do it myself? No, I'd select a diesel rated oil. But if you change it say, twice as often, probably completely fine. It's still a modern synthetic engine oil capable of suspending contaminants and providing exceptional lubrication film quality under high pressures.

Also depends a bit on how you use the RTV. Towing heavy loads all the time, or plowing deep snow? Or just loafing around to carry a square bale or light tool box.

Displacement of the motor is irrelevant, There's dispersants in a diesel certified oil that suspends soot particles( abrasive to moving parts) to be filtered out in the filter and also other additives that Aid in oxidation and neutralize acids that pcmo does not have or have enough of, there's a reason WHY there's a diesel certified oil and a passenger car certified oil

 

[deezler]

I do agree, gents. Just saying, you could probably get away with it (but of course, why chance it).

 

[daman1]

I do agree, gents. Just saying, you could probably get away with it (but of course, why chance it).

Exactly, why allow excessive wear and poor protection by running inadequate spec oil when you can grab the right stuff that's probably sitting right next to it on the Shelf