Using a generator to power a water well pump

/ Using a generator to power a water well pump #1  

TheGoose

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I have read a lot of threads on here asking about using a generator to power a water well pump so I wanted to pass some info along.

My intent here is only to clear up some confusion about using water wells and generators, which many of us have to do while living in the country. First, a little about myself. I used to be in the business, so I know a little about water well issues etc. While I am no longer in the business, I haven't totally forgotten everything I knew LOL. :p

I noticed that most posters are listing their well depths, water level, pump types, draw-down, etc. etc. While this information is important to the overall design of the well, the only thing that has any real effect on selecting a generator is the Horsepower of the motor on the pump.

What you need to be looking for is the HP of the pump, usually found either by looking on the side of the motor of a jet-pump or looking on the control box of a submersible pump. Most jet pumps will either run on 115v or 230v by switching the wires in the motor. Submersible pumps are almost always 230v and cannot be switched (to my knowledge). The HP of the motor will determine how many amps the motor will pull, and this will give you how many watts. 230V setups are better because they will pull half the amps of 115v (but use the same watts).

Of course, requirements vary region to region as water tables, well depths, well yield and water requirements change from house to house. But what I have found that most people can be well served with a 1-HP setup. Some slightly more, some slightly less. Obviously, a 1.5 HP motor needs double the watts as a 3/4 HP etc, but 1-HP is a good start with a single residential dwelling with a decent water level. The water level in a well is somewhat independent of the total depth of the well.

For instance, my home has a well that is 535 feet deep. The water at the bottom of the well is under pressure which pushes the water to within 60' of the surface. So I am drawing water from 60', not 535 feet. I will set my pump at 140' to ensure that it stays completely submerged with no chance for the draw-down to let the pump run dry. Some areas closer to Houston have water levels approaching 200' feet deep, so obviously they need larger HP etc to get the same amount of water to the surface. Desert and mountainous areas may also have deep water levels and HP will go up. Lower well yield means deeper pump settings etc.
YMMV.

Regardless of the well depth etc. the HP of the motor determines the size of the generator. When starting, the motor surges the amps by at least double, and your generator needs to be able to handle this surge.

The brand of the generator makes a very big difference when using a generator to power a well pump. The internally regulated generators have an extra winding in the generator stator. The extra winding senses the output current to automatically adjust the output voltage. Thus you can use a smaller internally-regulated generator to start a well pump than a larger externally regulated generator. I have seen this with my own eyes. A good Honda EG-3500 watt generator will start a 1-HP jet pump while a 5KW Lowe's special often cannot do the same thing.

The wiring also makes a difference. The smaller or longer the wire, the more voltage is lost due to resistance, and the more amps the motor has to draw to make up for the difference. Remember, Watts = Volts x Amps. If the volts go down, the Amps go up to compensate.

When using a generator I always try to wire the pump up separately with a short-run of wire, usually 10 gauge for 1.5 or less pumps. Always try to run the pump on 230v if it is equipped to do so. I only run the well pump by itself so I am not using any of the generators extra capacity on other items. I normally will pressure up the tank to it's normal operating pressure or maybe slightly above by increasing the pressure switch setting. By doing this I can put 40-60 gallons in a standard 80-gallon tank at ~60 psig. I can then disconnect my well from my generator and use water sparingly. As the water level goes down the pressure gets lower and lower until I finally have to run the well again. Using this method you can easily use 20-30 gallons of water from the tank before having to kick the well back on. If I'm using a lot of water I will disconnect the generator from everything else if possible and only run the well.

Most submersible motors use Franklin electric motors and they have published a guide for using generators that can be found here:

Service: Franklin AIM: Page 5 - Americas Water Systems - Franklin Electric

If you notice they list a 1-HP pump as needing a 4KW externally regulated generator to run. I tend to favor on going with a good quality 5.5KW generator set which gives you a little reserve for using other applications.

I hope this was helpful, I will try to answer any questions you throw my way.
 
/ Using a generator to power a water well pump #2  
I agree with all that you said. Today, however, the generator is the biggest factor. Since the motor, or any induction motor, will require a much higher inrush current when starting, it is the capacity of the generator to be able to handle the inrush that counts. If the generator does not have enough capacity to get the pump motor spinning fast enough, during the inrush period, the motor will never get to speed. Continuing to run the pump when it has not achieved running speed will result in an overload and possibly damage to the motor.

Many imported generators today scrimp on "iron" and "copper". Going cheap on copper will increase internal resistance and not enough iron reduces the magnetic flux capacity. Both are critical to surge capacity. Better generators will be heavier partly due to this reason. "Surge Ratings" on generators is not a well defined parameter, and you should not rely too much on it. So go for one with a high enough rating, not a surge rating.

paul
 
/ Using a generator to power a water well pump #3  
I will set my pump at 140' to ensure that it stays completely submerged with no chance for the draw-down to let the pump run dry.

My well is 710 feet and I have the pump at 670, even though my water level is closer to 60', just like yours. The reason is that water levels fluctuate over time and this way I can withstand a large drop and still be OK. Also, the amount of water stored in the well bore is significant.

It requires very little extra energy to pump, only the friction losses in the extra pipe, the hydrostatic head only depends on the actual water level and is the same no matter what the pump depth.
 
/ Using a generator to power a water well pump #4  
My house is all electic with a well..I've run a fair amount of the non220 circuts along with the well with a 7000 run/8750 surge generator..No issues with that at all. Just have to be reasonable on what you are expecting to power..Some lights, a tv and the well.
 
/ Using a generator to power a water well pump #5  
My house is all electric also. I can run the 230V well pump, two refrigerators, pellet stove, TV, and some lights with a 5000/6500 watt surge Honda generator easily. The Honda was well worth the extra money for me.
 
/ Using a generator to power a water well pump
  • Thread Starter
#6  
You have a low yield well...that is why the pump is set so deep. My well here easily could produce 60 gpm if I put a bigger pump in (4" well).

Yes, the static water level is the pumping depth, not the level of the pump. The pump HP is still the only important factor.


I will set my pump at 140' to ensure that it stays completely submerged with no chance for the draw-down to let the pump run dry.

My well is 710 feet and I have the pump at 670, even though my water level is closer to 60', just like yours. The reason is that water levels fluctuate over time and this way I can withstand a large drop and still be OK. Also, the amount of water stored in the well bore is significant.

It requires very little extra energy to pump, only the friction losses in the extra pipe, the hydrostatic head only depends on the actual water level and is the same no matter what the pump depth.
 
/ Using a generator to power a water well pump #7  
My house is all electric also. I can run the 230V well pump, two refrigerators, pellet stove, TV, and some lights with a 5000/6500 watt surge Honda generator easily. The Honda was well worth the extra money for me.

I actually have one of those knock-off Powerland things...It works very well given the cost...Got a killer deal on it when another state outlawed them for environmental reasons... Electric start, very quiet and pretty powerful. I'll run it until it gives up then get a Generac or Honda.
 
/ Using a generator to power a water well pump #8  
We have all electric and no generator yet. Is there someone who can explain how to wire the pump so that it can be run from a generator. Can you splice in a plug at the control box, does there need to be a transfer switch wired to it? I'm just trying to get basic information on how I would "plug" in my well pump to a generator. Thanks.
 
/ Using a generator to power a water well pump #10  
Everything Goose said is correct. Gotta be real careful if you're hardwiring the pressure switch. I try to avoid doing that wherever possible, although I know many people who do it all of the time.

One thing you might want to look into is a meter mounted transfer switch. Many utilities offer them for a few hundred dollars. The only thing they do is make certain that you're not back feeding the overheads (very bad). You just plug your generator into the transfer switch. You still MUST self regulate your in house power usage...Shut off all 220's except for the well. Also limit all power hogs (microwaves,sweepers, shop tools etc.). Just leave a minimal amount of breakers powered on. Do all of this before you plug in the generator.

Of course, this assumes that your genset has enough watts /amps to do all of this. Personally, I think that anything less than 5000 watts is taking chances on being underpowered.

Just my opinion.
 
/ Using a generator to power a water well pump #11  
I really appreciate the info. The pump is submersible, the control box is mounted in the garage next to the pressure tank- it's 1 HP 230V, and I know which breaker runs it. A ten foot cord could go out the door to a generator. I've thought about investing in a transfer switch, but our electricity has been very reliable- never down more than a few hours. Given that this would be only used rarely it seems powering the pressure switch as described, and running a couple of extension cords for a portable heater and a light or two is all I would need. Although our electrical cooperative has been reliable, we've had a couple of ice storms and one is bound to put us out for awhile.
 
/ Using a generator to power a water well pump #12  

I have question about the check valve info on that page. My well pump runs periodically because the water apparently is draining back into the well. I have done some isolation testing etc. and either I have a leak between the well and the pressure tank (about 75 feet apart) or the check valve(s) are leaking. I have dug up at the well and there is a check valve installed there but no union :mad: It would not be a small project to replace that check valve. I have about 12" or so of straight copper pipe near the pressure tank on the well side. I was thinking of putting a union and check valve there as it would be much easier than digging and working in a hole at the well end. My pressure switch runs about 35-60 psi so there is always some pressure in the line between the well and the tank. If I installed a check valve at the tank end am I going to start getting water hammer per what it says on that page under "water hammer"? It would seem unless air is introduced there would still be water in the pipe, just no pressure.
 
/ Using a generator to power a water well pump #13  
We have all electric and no generator yet. Is there someone who can explain how to wire the pump so that it can be run from a generator. Can you splice in a plug at the control box, does there need to be a transfer switch wired to it? I'm just trying to get basic information on how I would "plug" in my well pump to a generator. Thanks.

I have a disconnect box from the house wiring to the well pump. This disconnect box has a pigtail hanging out of it that the generator cord plugs in to. When the power goes out I pull the disconnect. This isolates the pump wiring from the house wiring. Then I plug the pigtail in to the generator. If the power comes back on it doesn't matter because the pump and generator are isolated from the house wiring. I had an electrician do this. It wasn't that expensive. Most folks out this way run their well pumps this way and it's easy to find an electrician that knows exactly what you are talking about when you ask him to do this.
 
/ Using a generator to power a water well pump #14  
I have question about the check valve info on that page. My well pump runs periodically because the water apparently is draining back into the well. I have done some isolation testing etc. and either I have a leak between the well and the pressure tank (about 75 feet apart) or the check valve(s) are leaking. I have dug up at the well and there is a check valve installed there but no union :mad: It would not be a small project to replace that check valve. I have about 12" or so of straight copper pipe near the pressure tank on the well side. I was thinking of putting a union and check valve there as it would be much easier than digging and working in a hole at the well end. My pressure switch runs about 35-60 psi so there is always some pressure in the line between the well and the tank. If I installed a check valve at the tank end am I going to start getting water hammer per what it says on that page under "water hammer"? It would seem unless air is introduced there would still be water in the pipe, just no pressure.

Could be a foot valve leaking. If you put a check valve at the bladder tank, and the water is draining into the well. You will have an H2o void and my guess it would be worse than water hammer when the system re-pressurizes.

Is the well cycling constantly or rarely?
 
/ Using a generator to power a water well pump #15  
I've a Honda EM7000 for back-up on my country garage/apt. It has a system whereby generator motor rpm is proportional to output demand, so fuel consumption is likewise regulated. Most with "country" homes believe they're self-sufficient, with septic and such, but when power goes, as it did with me after a hurricane that knocked out area power for over a week, it became very clear that "no power, no water", and such power had to be sufficient for the start-up demands of the well pump (which as previously noted on this thread can be twice that of normal operating power). So, when I came home to find my distressed wife with no power, no refrigeration, no lights, no HVAC and no water, I cranked up the 27 amp 220v output Honda, but BEFORE such shut off the HVAC and freezer circuits. The generator (which is in superb shape) was not happy for awhile, but as the water holding tank, house frig and such were replenished, I could flip on the freezer and a few other switches. It's a matter of knowing the max. current draw of the stuff critical to you, and if you don't have a generator capable of handling everything starting at once, then you have to cycle in circuits when appropriate.
I'm going for a 15000 watt Onan built-in and propane powered for my soon-to-be constructed home. Still, I'll have to choose what circuits to power (AC, well pump, elevator, freezer/frig/etc). To run everything requires..... a lot, and when I added up the "start-up" amp requirements of everything I hope to have in the home ....I'm still going to need to priortize where the power goes.
 
/ Using a generator to power a water well pump #16  
I've a Honda EM7000 for back-up on my country garage/apt. It has a system whereby generator motor rpm is proportional to output demand, so fuel consumption is likewise regulated. Most with "country" homes believe they're self-sufficient, with septic and such, but when power goes, as it did with me after a hurricane that knocked out area power for over a week, it became very clear that "no power, no water", and such power had to be sufficient for the start-up demands of the well pump (which as previously noted on this thread can be twice that of normal operating power). So, when I came home to find my distressed wife with no power, no refrigeration, no lights, no HVAC and no water, I cranked up the 27 amp 220v output Honda, but BEFORE such shut off the HVAC and freezer circuits. The generator (which is in superb shape) was not happy for awhile, but as the water holding tank, house frig and such were replenished, I could flip on the freezer and a few other switches. It's a matter of knowing the max. current draw of the stuff critical to you, and if you don't have a generator capable of handling everything starting at once, then you have to cycle in circuits when appropriate.
I'm going for a 15000 watt Onan built-in and propane powered for my soon-to-be constructed home. Still, I'll have to choose what circuits to power (AC, well pump, elevator, freezer/frig/etc). To run everything requires..... a lot, and when I added up the "start-up" amp requirements of everything I hope to have in the home ....I'm still going to need to priortize where the power goes.

I think you are talking about Hondas auto throttle system. One has to research generators and power demands. Decide your priorities. For us well water was number one. Power to the pellet stove number two. Power to the refridgerators/freezer number three. Power for lights, TV, and other stuff last. This is a budget setup with a portable. We put the majority of our money in a good generator. When it's 3 AM and the wind chill is -25 the last thing I want to do is work on a generator with a flashlight that won't start.
 
/ Using a generator to power a water well pump #17  
Could be a foot valve leaking. If you put a check valve at the bladder tank, and the water is draining into the well. You will have an H2o void and my guess it would be worse than water hammer when the system re-pressurizes.

Is the well cycling constantly or rarely?

It seems like every 1/2 hour or so even when no one is home.
 
/ Using a generator to power a water well pump #18  
It seems like every 1/2 hour or so even when no one is home.

Check the air pressure in your bladder tank first....Depending on the size,model, and if memory serves, there should be somewhere around 35PSI...Check the sticker on the tank to verify. Could be the beginnings of water logging.
 
/ Using a generator to power a water well pump #19  
/ Using a generator to power a water well pump
  • Thread Starter
#20  
First I would need to know what kind of well you have and do you know if it is either a submersible (pump down in the well) or jet pump (pump above ground).

Usually submersible pumps have a built-in check valve on the pump itself. Over time this check valve can leak a little. Normally I would install a 2nd check-valve just after the well head to keep water from flowing back to the pump if the pump check valve did fail. You say that there is another check valve just before the well. So if you're losing pressure/water into the well then this check valve would have to be leaking also. It is also possible that you have a hole in your drop pipe or some other problem.

If you have a jet pump set-up you have different problems. From what you described I do not think you have a jet pump set-up but I can explain if so necessary.

Either way you are losing a pretty good amount of water back into the well. How long is your pump running every time it kicks on? You should check to make sure your tank is not water logged, which could magnify the problem by not letting the motor running very long and once pressured up losing it's pressure prematurely.

If you have a bladder tank shut the power to the pump off and drain all the water out of the tank. Now check the pressure. The pressure should be 2 psi below your cut-in pressure. For example, if your pump kicks on at 30 psig your tank pressure should be 28 psig. If you do not have any air in the tank this would cause the pump to short cycle.

If you have a regular galvanized tank you simply need to add air to the tank. A 50/50 mix will work just fine. I can explain more if necessary.

What you really need to do is address the problem of where the water is going. If you have a hole in your drop pipe this is a serious problem and could cause your motor/pump to over-heat and that can get expensive quickly. Because your pump uses the water flowing over it to cool the motor if you lose water back into the well from a hole this water starts to heat up depending upon how much water is being recycled. You could over-heat the motor, melt the well casing, etc. You should really consult with your local well service co. to find the true problem. Installing a 2nd check valve only address the symptom, not the problem.



I have question about the check valve info on that page. My well pump runs periodically because the water apparently is draining back into the well. I have done some isolation testing etc. and either I have a leak between the well and the pressure tank (about 75 feet apart) or the check valve(s) are leaking. I have dug up at the well and there is a check valve installed there but no union :mad: It would not be a small project to replace that check valve. I have about 12" or so of straight copper pipe near the pressure tank on the well side. I was thinking of putting a union and check valve there as it would be much easier than digging and working in a hole at the well end. My pressure switch runs about 35-60 psi so there is always some pressure in the line between the well and the tank. If I installed a check valve at the tank end am I going to start getting water hammer per what it says on that page under "water hammer"? It would seem unless air is introduced there would still be water in the pipe, just no pressure.

It seems like every 1/2 hour or so even when no one is home.

Start a new thread on this...We're wandering:D
 
 
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