Used tractor, 1st time tractor owner, tips?

[jfobel]

Hi Folks,

I recently purchased a yanmar YM2000 and will receive the tractor w/ loader and shredder sometime this week. I purchased the tractor to mow, put down a gravel drive, and clean-up trees/brush. I have never owned a tractor before and would like to start off right. I am thinking of changing out:

1. Enginer Oil/Filter
2. Air Filter
3. Fuel Filter
4. Belt
5. Antifreeze
6. Grease zirk fittings

What other tips can you provide? I am new to tractors and want to start off good.

Thanks,


Jack

 

[Cade]

I did the same thing that your doing. In addition I changed the hydraulic fluid / filters, and gear oil. I also took digital pics of the tractor, components along with pics of all the serial numbers for my file. Just in case of a theft, fire etc. Make sure you get the manuals and then stick to the maintenance checks and changes according to the manufacturers guidlines. Good luck and enjoy!

 

[PitbullMidwest]

What other tips can you provide? I am new to tractors and want to start off good.

The best tip I can provide is to read as much of this site as possible. You cannot begin to fathom the amount of useful advise and information available on just about any topic.

Congrats on the tractor and welcome to TBN.

 

[dbdartman]

Factory owner's manual, & factory service manual are, or should be IMHO, the first things you get.

 

[LOOPHOLE]

BE CAREFUL!!! Don't put yourself in awkward situations ,things happen pretty fast in the seat sometimes. Enjoy and expect lots of advice from the good folks on this site.

 

[bjcsc]

I agree with all that has been said. Read the manual and get familiar with the machine. Don't think for a minute that a smaller CUT or SCUT won't kill or maim you just as fast as a full-sized UT. All tractors have more power than you might expect if you're not used to them. Go slow when you're learning, and don't ever put yourself in a situation where you're rushed for time and in a hurry. It's better to not finish and live to tractor another day with all your parts intact. In short, always keep safety in the front of your mind and you'll have a great time learning what you can do...

 

[Cade]

bjcsc, good point. A friend of my wife lost her life last year. Her clothing got caught in the PTO when she went to spread manure. She apparently has done this countless times and was familiar with the equipment. Don't take anything for granted and always pay attention. Respect.

 

[Bird]

Hi Folks,

I recently purchased a yanmar YM2000 and will receive the tractor w/ loader and shredder sometime this week. I purchased the tractor to mow, put down a gravel drive, and clean-up trees/brush. I have never owned a tractor before and would like to start off right. I am thinking of changing out:

1. Enginer Oil/Filter
2. Air Filter
3. Fuel Filter
4. Belt
5. Antifreeze
6. Grease zirk fittings

What other tips can you provide? I am new to tractors and want to start off good.

Thanks,


Jack

Jack, if you've never used a tractor before, then you probably don't realize how quickly and how easily a tractor can be turned over, especially one with a front end loader. I'm sure many of our members, including yours truly, have just scared the bejabbers out of themselves at least once when one or two wheels came off the ground. Go very slowly at first, keep the bucket on the front end loader as low as possible when moving, and have fun.

 

[pat32rf]

You didn't tell us what part of the country you are in. Will you have snow and ice to contend with? Cold weather when you fire it up?
I always try to keep one hand on the loader joystick when carrying a load and like was mentioned, keep the bucket low when ever you can, full or empty. And NO passengers!

 

[JoeF]

The best tip I can provide is to read as much of this site as possible. You cannot begin to fathom the amount of useful advise and information available on just about any topic.

Congrats on the tractor and welcome to TBN.

If your not reading this board at least 2 to 3 times a week your cheating yourself. The above quote is the best info I can give.

 

[jfobel]

Hey thanks yall. Great information for a newbie. I will take it easy and will watch the loader. Keep in mind the pto and loose clothing.

I am in east texas. not a whole lot of ice/snow.

The owner/service manuals I think will be good. I try to turn a wrench when possible.

My first projects will be to spread gravel for a driveway. I have about 3-4 acres I want to bush hog and hope to get some grass growing. I have 8.5 acres total and all of it is loaded with hardwoods. So lots of shady areas. Much of my land is on gradual slope with several washouts and very rough/bumpy terrain I would hope to smooth out over time.

Thanks again for the replies.


Jack

 

[john_bud]

Tip #1 - if it has a filter change it
Tip#2 - if it's a fluid, drain and replace
Tip #3 - with the rear tire valves down low, see if there is any fluid in them. If not, fill. 2 gal of anti-freeze, then water should be OK in TX

Opertional tips
Get a big pry bar. I have a 5' one and it's very often used to move attachments to align them.

When connecting attachments, do the left 3pt arm first. Have the arms slightly low, then manually lift them up. Then do the right one with the adjuster for fine tuning, then the top link.

Practice 2 things. #1 when any thing "funny" happens STOMP the clutch as hard and fast as you can. ALWAYS! Cultivating that as a reflex will save you thousands of dollars and hours of time. #2 when mowing, your right hand rests on the 3pt lift lever. You hit a rock, stump, buried old steel fence post, etc learn to instantly lift the 3pt. That takes the mower out of danger. (You should find your left foot on the fully stomped clutch peddle when you happen to wonder why the tractor isn't moving. If not, repeat #1)

When using the FEL, you rest your right hand on the FEL control. Reflex is to push the joystick forward to lower the bucket using float. DON'T stop a full bucket suddenly as it can pop the lines. No pressure relief on that side of the valve.


Old hands with tractors really enjoy sending a green horn on a tractor out with a mower to watch the total confusion, spastic reactions and loud cussing as they run over "stuff". (so don't have any of them around when you are going to pull your first bone head move)

jb

 

[jfobel]

john_bud that is funny. I know I am green but accept the fact. Those are great tips, thats stuff I need to hear.

Here are some photos from last year when I bought the property. Any tips on how I can get the ground smoother. Do i have to till the whole land first? I have heard of people dragging thing behind the tractor to help smooth it.

I know this is off topic but any tips on getting grass to grow in shade is apreciated too!

http://www.tyler-it.com/land/land1.jpg

http://www.tyler-it.com/land/land2.jpg

http://www.tyler-it.com/land/land3.jpg

http://www.tyler-it.com/land/land4.jpg

 

[john_bud]

jfobel,

Little slice of heaven you got there.

If you go to the "projects" forum and search on road building, you will find a lot of stuff on getting your driveway in shape. Basically, you need to remove the organic top layer (it will break down over time and the road will sag / pothole), then put down geo-textile fabric, then various layers of different sized stone to get the roadway 4-6" above the grade. A box blade is a good tool for road work. (in "Attachments" search for box blade and you will find more information than you could have imagined.)

On the ground, first take a dozen soil samples for analysis, then mow it down. Then add whatever amendments that are needed. (for lime I like to add 2/3 of the recommended amount before working the soil then 2/3 after working it. Yeah, that's 4/3rd, I know. But you are putting it in more soil and getting it down deeper). Then buy a 5' or 6' double disc and disk the field. If you don't want to spend the money on a disc (cheapskate!) you can use the scarifiers on the box blade as a half-fast substitute. Come to think about it, you probably have a layer of caleche under the soil (or is it all hard clay?). If so, you may want to spend $200 on a middle buster / sub-soiler. Drag that around first, then disc.

You can make your own smoothing drag. Buy a roll of 6' tall chain link fence. (50' or so) Cut down a tree that is about 2' in diameter and 7' long. Unroll the fence and put the log in it. Bolt or afix the chain to the log and wind it up tight, leave about 8-10' of fence out the back. Bolt the wound up fence to the log so it can't unwind. At the end of the 8-10' remaining end, bolt a section of log or post 12" in diameter. Use eyelet bolts in the big log to connect a short chain between the end of the log and the 3pt arms. You drag the sucker around and around and around. The rough bottom will break up the dirt clods and smooth it out. This is used after the box blade has rough'ed it in. The box moves dirt from high to low, this will smooth it all out.

You may need to thin out some of the trees to get more light for lawn. I'd check with the local home centers and the ag extension office on what grass grows best in your area.

Have fun,
jb

 

[diesal]

manual is a usefull tool. came with my operators manual on jd . it covers what you listed and more