Upgrading hitch on F150

[haveissues]

So here is my situation. My '12 f150 got rear ended last week. The hitch, among other things, needs to be replaced.

The factory hitch is rated for 5k or 10k with a weight distribution hitch. Curt sells a class VI hitch for the 150 that is rated for 10k or 12k with weight distribution. I'm thinking if I replace it with the curt instead of oem I can use my dump trailer at the max tow rating of my truck without using a distribution hitch. Am I missing something?

 

[aczlan]

Should be fine as long as you dont go over your rear axle weight.

Aaron Z

 

[haveissues]

Thanks, that was my assumption as well. On a side note it has been a long time since I read BOFH. Always a good read.

 

[motownbrowne]

So here is my situation. My '12 f150 got rear ended last week. The hitch, among other things, needs to be replaced.

The factory hitch is rated for 5k or 10k with a weight distribution hitch. Curt sells a class VI hitch for the 150 that is rated for 10k or 12k with weight distribution. I'm thinking if I replace it with the curt instead of oem I can use my dump trailer at the max tow rating of my truck without using a distribution hitch. Am I missing something?

Only thing I would say is don't plan on towing at MAX capacity very often, very fast, or very far. 80% of max, go ahead, but be cautious as you approach the limits of your equipment. If you don't already have one, buy a brake controller.

 

[haveissues]

I don't have to go far, only a few miles usually and 45mpg or so. Stone from quarry, soil, firewood, those types of things. The truck pulls the load very well and has a factory controller. The trailer has brakes on both axles.

 

[Gem99ultra]

So here is my situation. My '12 f150 got rear ended last week. The hitch, among other things, needs to be replaced.

The factory hitch is rated for 5k or 10k with a weight distribution hitch. Curt sells a class VI hitch for the 150 that is rated for 10k or 12k with weight distribution. I'm thinking if I replace it with the curt instead of oem I can use my dump trailer at the max tow rating of my truck without using a distribution hitch. Am I missing something?

Class VI hitch? I have a Class IV hitch on my '97 Chevy 3/4 ton. It's rated for 10K.

 

[motownbrowne]

Sounds perfect. If you are loaded well with 10% of trailer weight on the hitch and you are under the GAWR for your rear axle no need to worry about weight distributing do dads for short trips. If you want you could always add some air bags too. Won't increase capacity for the axle, but will improve the ride/handling with all that weight on the back.

 

[motownbrowne]

Class VI hitch? I have a Class IV hitch on my '97 Chevy 3/4 ton. It's rated for 10K.

Maybe a typo? I have seen some info that says IV is the highest rating. Some manufactures call their heavy hitches class V, but they are the same as class IV from others. Never seen a VI. Have a class IV on my F250, rated at 10k weight carrying, 15k weight distributing.

 

[haveissues]

Yup, Typo. meant IV.

Motown, I was planning on bagging it but haven't gotten around to it. I actually want to take out the 2" blocks to level it and use the bags when needed. I hate climbing in and out of the tall bed for the 20th time after a long day. That is one thing I prefer about the Chevy's-the bed height.

 

[motownbrowne]

I'd love to bag mine too. My truck is a little unique in its capacity rating. It's rated at 8600 lbs (maybe 8800) but it's a six cylinder standard cab 2wd stick shift, as light as can be. Around 4500 empty. That means I can legally put 4k in the bed, which I have done. It brakes fine, drives fine, but some extra stiffness in the back would be much appreciated. I've also wondered what kind of fuel economy you could gain by bagging all four corners and lowering the truck a few inches on the highway. I hate crawling into the bed too, so that would be an added benefit. I use a long bent tine fork for pulling firewood out, but it doesn't help much getting it in there.

 

[jejeosborne]

So here is my situation. My '12 f150 got rear ended last week. The hitch, among other things, needs to be replaced.

The factory hitch is rated for 5k or 10k with a weight distribution hitch. Curt sells a class VI hitch for the 150 that is rated for 10k or 12k with weight distribution. I'm thinking if I replace it with the curt instead of oem I can use my dump trailer at the max tow rating of my truck without using a distribution hitch. Am I missing something?

Do you currently have a WD hitch on your trailer? If so, I would continue to use it. You are assuming that just because the new hitch can handle the additional 500 lbs of tongue weight that the frame can as well. Also the WD adds more weight to your trucks front axle that dramatically improves breaking and handling that air bags don't. You are maxing out the capability of your truck and I would want all the help I could get. Hooking up a WD hitch only adds about one minute to the process so I don't see why anyone would choose to avoid it.

 

[haveissues]

The reason I want to avoid the wd is that the trailer is not actually mine. It is a friends trailer that I am free to take whenever I want for however long I want. The other reason is that I end up taking the trailer on non level ground often and it is just a matter of time that I forget to disconnect the wd arms and something breaks. The distances are a few miles and I find the truck tows it very well currently.

 

[motownbrowne]

As long as the gross axle weight rating is not exceeded and the hitch is made specifically for that truck, I don't see how you could be exceeding anything.

 

[haveissues]

As long as the gross axle weight rating is not exceeded and the hitch is made specifically for that truck, I don't see how you could be exceeding anything.

Thanks, I agree. The hitch is made specifically for my model and year of truck. Curt even makes separate class 3 and class 4 models.