Good to know
Upgrading factory work lights - L6060
- Thread starter jk96
- Start date
Good to know
TimP
Platinum Member
Nice Clean Job JK96.
The light output looks Great !
The light output looks Great !
buck12
Veteran Member
Thanks for posting. Better lighting is on my todo list.
OrangeMuscle
Bronze Member
I also upgraded the lights. Just picked up my new L6060 and added two light bars. 48" curved for the front, and 52" curved for the rear. After installing them I found that I was overwhelming the 15 amp fuse that was designated for the work lights. I swapped it out for a 30 amp fuse and it works great now. I also got the hi amp alternator. The lights are amazingly bright. I also love the way they look even when they are off. So sharp looking. I will post some nighttime pics soon.
Fallon
Super Member
That is a HORRIBLE idea. Pull that fuse immediately. Fuses dont protect things, they protect wire. If you pull more amps through a wire than its rated for, it turns into a heater element. You are quite likely to burn your machine (or house or whatever) down if you put a big fuse or circuit breaker on small wire bad things happen.
Unless you know all the wire is 10ga or bigger & you are going to run into voltage drop issues. Those wires were reasonably small if I recall, so probably only barely rated to 15@. All the switches need to be rated for 30@ or more as well. Switching higher amperage eats switches up quickly, not to mention being a fire hazard as well. Generally switches arent rated for more than 15@. Any bigger than 15 or so needs a relay to not fry and or cause voltage loss issues.
Automotive Wire -12 Volt - American Made - WiringProducts. Ltd. & many others have have charts for wire gauge vs amps & acceptable wire lengths.
Fallon you are correct. Not sure the guage but the factory wire is small enough that I had concerns even though I'm pulling under 15 amps. So much so that I ran both the front and rears while working after install and checked the wires with an ir thermometer just to make sure they were not heating up. They were not but drawing more than 15 amps is likely to melt those wires.
OrangeMuscle
Bronze Member
Wow, I had no idea. It was the Kubota dealer who installed them. When I told them they weren't working after after turning them on only once, they switched out the 15 amp fuse for the 30 amp. I will pull it out immediately. I did buy the heavy duty harness kit that was recommended to buy with from Amazon. Dealer said it was unnecessary. Now I realize I should run the new heavy harness kit. What a mess. I thought I was all set. No idea who I can find to do this job. Thank you very much for letting know how dangerous this is. Now I realize after reading your thread about your install why it was so involved. Because you did it safely and correctly.
5030
Epic Contributor
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My question as well.... Don't look like the window will open with that bar in place.
Fallon
Super Member
No issues with my rear or side windows opening fully on mine. I assume the bottom of his bar is even with mine as they are both mounted to the hazard light arms. My supports I put in later dont interfere either. Close where it mounts at the bottom, but doesnt touch either window open or closed.
Fallon
Super Member
Yup, I went a bit overkill on mine in some spots (4ga up to the fuse box), but I wanted to make mine safe & future proof. I can safely replace several of my low 5@ & 10@ fuses on my auxiliary fuse box as every component is a minimum of 14ga, mostly 12ga. Switches are probably rated to 15@, but they just drive relays with under 1@ that are 30@ or so. Generally OEM systems have the fuse matching the max rating of the wire. So unless you know the wire & other components are heavier than the OEM fuse, never ever put in a bigger fuse. A fuse is just a small bit of wire in a flame retardant case. If you upsize it, the wire will be the bit that heats up & melts, not the fuse. A fiery death for your machine or house usually follows.
I put in 5@ fuses running the switches & relays as an extra layer of protection. No need for bigger fuses despite the wire & stuff being rated for 3x what the fuse is. I want that fuse to blow WAY faster if there are any issues.
The good news is this isn't rocket science. A competent car stereo guy should be able to wire it in properly. They might need to be shown how to pop the roof off, maybe the trim. But the rest is just running the appropriate sized wires around then putting in the switches & relays in.