Upgrading factory work lights - L6060

[jk96]

Decided the factory lights on the L6060 I just purchased weren't cutting it. Ending up removing the 4 factory lights and replaced with a couple of led light bars.

For the rear I installed the blazer single row 52 inch bar. I know the 52 inch is overkill but it fit perfectly without modifications to the existing factory brackets so 52inch it was.

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Up front I added the blazer 24" bar. It took some modification but still pretty simple. Only required cutting off the bolt tabs on the factory brackets and adding a piece of steel flat bar stock between the two brackets to mount the light to.

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These things turn night to day. My only concern is going to be plowing snow. Not sure if they will generate enough heat if any to melt snow buildup. I'll try to get a few night pics soon to post.

 

[Roadworthy]

Will the factory work light circuits carry the added load or did you do some rewiring, too?

 

[jk96]

Will the factory work light circuits carry the added load or did you do some rewiring, too?

The L6060 cab model has a 15 amp fuse for the work lights. The 52" bar is rated at 8.4 amps and the 24" is 4.9 amps for a total of 12.9. I was crossing my fingers that the led ratings were correct but no issues so far.

 

[fruitcakesa]

Does the rear light interfere with opening the back window?

 

[RjCorazza]

Very nice install. I used (2) 9" wide 55 watt LED's front and rear on my L4060 a few years ago. The stock 60a alternator keeps up with the tractor lights all on, but I usually leave the oem headlights lights off unless I'm on the road.
I have not had any issues with the lights during snow removal, including blowing. The only issue I have with the LED lights on my tractor is that there is no going back to incandescent!

 

[jk96]

Does the rear light interfere with opening the back window?

The windshield wiper will hit the light bar when opened so could be a problem if you operate with the back window open. The only time I ever open the rear indow is to turn a sprayer on or off, otherwise it stays closed. There is plenty of opening for that so it's not a problem for me.

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[Fallon]

Keep an eye on the rear bar. Yours looks thinner & lighter than mine, but I'm not clear if its mounted to the hazard arms similar to mine. At any rate one of my hazzard arms got fatigued & broke off due to the extra weight hanging that far out. I ended up welding on some supports to repair & prevent future issues.

My measurements on my cheap LED bars showed them drawing a little over half their rated wattage if I recall. So I may have been able to avoid the overkill wiring project I did on mine & just use stock wiring.

Documented the build, issues & stuff on https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/376458-let-there-light-l4060-light.html.

 

[jk96]

Thanks for the heads up. Yes mine is mounted to the hazard arms as well however I'm using a single row led bar where it looks like you used a double row. I imagine there is quite a bit of weight difference between the two.

 

[jk96]

Here's a quick wrap up on the install. Left both front and rear lights on while working the tractor for a few hours yesterday. No issues at all running off the factory wiring. I was a little concerned about the factory wire gauge on the larger rear light bar but put an ir thermometer on the wiring before heat shrinking it yesterday and there was no warm up to it at all. Read about the same as the ambient outside temp. The rear light bar seems to be lite enough for the current mount on the hazard bar supports without any additional support needed. There is very little movement over rough ground. If that changes I'll update the post. This seems to be a very easy upgrade for even the novice tractor owner. Only thing needed is a piece of flat bar stock, a couple of nuts and bolts, grinding wheel with cutoff blade, drill bit, and some electrical tape/heat shrink. I think the install both front and back could easily be done in an hour minus the time to paint the front support bracket. Here's a couple of night pics. Don't forget to turn the lights of for oncoming traffic if roading. They are bright.

Also forgot to mention previously that the front factory L brackets had to be bent out slightly from 90 degress to move the mount away from the front glass a bit.

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Front view

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Rear View

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[PILOON]

Having switched to LED's for 2 seasons I'd suggest you'll not have problems as LEDs do create enough heat to avoid snow/ice problems.
I rapidly switched to LEDs as my CUT has limited alternator output but I wanted to see and be seen.