Upgrading factory work lights - L6060

   / Upgrading factory work lights - L6060
  • Thread Starter
#21  
My question as well.... Don't look like the window will open with that bar in place.

See page 1 post #6.

Bar could be moved out further on the hazard brackets but would cause more stress and may need reinforced if you do. Works fine as is for me.
 
   / Upgrading factory work lights - L6060
  • Thread Starter
#22  
The good news is this isn't rocket science. A competent car stereo guy should be able to wire it in properly. They might need to be shown how to pop the roof off, maybe the trim. But the rest is just running the appropriate sized wires around then putting in the switches & relays in.

Or just downsize your lights and keep the two bars under 15 amps. No need to go through all the extra steps.
 
   / Upgrading factory work lights - L6060 #23  
Or just downsize your lights and keep the two bars under 15 amps. No need to go through all the extra steps.

That's what I did. Originally I had 4 LED lights that drew almost 25 Amps. Blew the fuse.

I had not given any thought about the fuse rating when I bought the lights.

I ended up downsizing the lights in the rear and now my total draw on the 20 Amp light circuit fuse is 19 Amps.

I would have liked to have the larger lights on he back, but didn't want to re-wire.

There is still plenty of light on the back. (About 9,500 Lumens in back, and almost 20,000 Lumens in Front)

So I'm happy.....
 
   / Upgrading factory work lights - L6060 #24  
Not fond of the light bars but that just personal taste. I run LED's but individual lamps because Kubota stock lights suck and no way around that. The head lamps on both my M9's are about as bright as a flashlight with almost dead batteries and the cab mounted lights weren't much better.

I hear the new Kubota's are better. Anything would be an improvement.

I really need good lights as I run the road at night when farming late but at the same time I don't like blinding oncoming traffic either and LED's tend to do that so I run my LED high mounts when there is no oncoming traffic and my flashlights when vehicles are passing.
 
   / Upgrading factory work lights - L6060 #25  
Not fond of the light bars but that just personal taste. I run LED's but individual lamps because Kubota stock lights suck and no way around that. The head lamps on both my M9's are about as bright as a flashlight with almost dead batteries and the cab mounted lights weren't much better.

I hear the new Kubota's are better. Anything would be an improvement.

I really need good lights as I run the road at night when farming late but at the same time I don't like blinding oncoming traffic either and LED's tend to do that so I run my LED high mounts when there is no oncoming traffic and my flashlights when vehicles are passing.
The Grands at least are still comming with the crappy halogen headlights & cab lights.

LEDs themselves arent the issue. They can focus as well if the housing & reflector are setup correctly. Most are setup as floods rather than spotlights.

If you put spots high up on the cab & aim them down they shouldn't glare into traffic to much. Luckily for our use case at tractor speeds you aim them pretty low so they wouldnt be pointing at other drivers.

On mine I have curved light bars. The center section is spots & the outer thirds are floods. The flood reflectors are crinkled so they scatter light unlike the front. The curve also makes them flood a lot more than a straight bar. Some small spot cubes properly aimed would be better for roading than my setup. I turn mine off when there is oncoming traffic at night.
 
   / Upgrading factory work lights - L6060 #26  
The Grands at least are still comming with the crappy halogen headlights & cab lights.

LEDs themselves arent the issue. They can focus as well if the housing & reflector are setup correctly. Most are setup as floods rather than spotlights.

If you put spots high up on the cab & aim them down they shouldn't glare into traffic to much. Luckily for our use case at tractor speeds you aim them pretty low so they wouldnt be pointing at other drivers.

On mine I have curved light bars. The center section is spots & the outer thirds are floods. The flood reflectors are crinkled so they scatter light unlike the front. The curve also makes them flood a lot more than a straight bar. Some small spot cubes properly aimed would be better for roading than my setup. I turn mine off when there is oncoming traffic at night.

As you should, it has to do entirely with courtesy. I run LED refit's in my pick truck and I re aimed them so as to avoid blinding oncoming drivers as well. Having said that, there are a number of people out there who don't care and those people make it bad for everyone else.
 
 
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