Turn key and nothing. No start, no gauges, no lights.

[RJI]

push back and hold the PTO lever... turn the key...

 

[Krash]

"So if you found a fuse that has power, you know that power from the battery is reaching that point. Now the disconnect is somewhere from that fuse to the ignition switch."

Yes, I agree. I will get pictures tomorrow and post them if I can post them directly. I will continue to trace the power as you have described too.

Here is the schematic I am using. The red indicates a direct line from the starter (+), to the ignition switch. There is a Switch (28) in that circuit. That "Switch" is what I am trying to find, and where I suspect the problem is.



Thanks for the help.

 

[texasranger556]

#28 might be a circuit breaker. Does the wiring look original or hacked up by the previous owner?

 

[MatHaas]

"So if you found a fuse that has power, you know that power from the battery is reaching that point. Now the disconnect is somewhere from that fuse to the ignition switch."

Yes, I agree. I will get pictures tomorrow and post them if I can post them directly. I will continue to trace the power as you have described too.

Here is the schematic I am using. The red indicates a direct line from the starter (+), to the ignition switch. There is a Switch (28) in that circuit. That "Switch" is what I am trying to find, and where I suspect the problem is.

View attachment 552457

Thanks for the help.

well lets look at this schematic for a minute. a picture of the what the numbers represent would be helpful too. haha

but battery positive leaves battery and goes to image 6 the starter's first post. That should be a live wire (so use your test light on post 1 and see if there is direct power there).
I will answer that question now for myself (haha), and say there is power there since that post 1 also goes to image 7 which appears to be a fuse box. It goes to the top fuse, which I will assume is the 30amp fuse you had power to.

So break that down now, That schematic shows two posts on the starter, one is power at post 1. That means the second post has to be a signal from the ignition to engage that starter. Which you can trace it back to the ignition switch, so i'd be pretty sure on that. That means that switch 28 is not your problem. Because the ignition switch doesn't even have power to send the signal to the starter through switch 28. it's downstream of the real problem.

So we need to follow post 1 of the starter, thru the fuse box. and on.

Im curious as to what the numbers in parenthesis mean on the schematic, or does it just tell a wire color maybe?

Anyway.

We follow hot starter wire to fuse box 7. top fuse has power. (dumb question, did you check power on both sides? and pull of the fuse to make sure it wasn't blown? because one side will test good with power and the other side won't if it's blown. just covering the basics)

Power then goes to Figure 12, and then onward where it enters what appears to be the ignition switch figure 13. where you said you have no power on any post.

That means, the issue is between the top fuse of image 7 and the ignition switch 13.

Find out what image 12 is. And get back to us. again, check that fuse top fuse too just incase you only touched one side of the fuse with the test light and didn't pull the fuse. haha, sorry i have to be redundant.

 

[Krash]

Figure 12 is the ammeter. Only the top fuse (7) has any power. It has power with the key off or on. I have checked both sides of the fuse at (7). It looks like from (7), the power goes through the ammeter and then to the ignition switch. Does that seem right?

Here is all I have for labels for the schematic.



I will start checking all suggestions after one more cup of coffee.

 

[PILOON]

Hey, power comes to the switch but none comes out at any other position.
Problem is the switch!
Key switches have a spring loaded wiper arm that makes the contacts.
They dab some lubricant to deter wear and improve conductivity.
What very often happens is that lubricant drys up, hardens and prevents contact from occurring.
In other words the spring action is not sufficient to overcome the hard lube resistance.

One thing I have done is to spray some WD40 into the key slot and wiggle work the key a bit and that has restored operation.

Try that, nothing to lose.

PS: I have dismantled a few as I like to find what caused the problem.

 

[MatHaas]

Figure 12 is the ammeter. Only the top fuse (7) has any power. It has power with the key off or on. Here is all I have for labels for the schematic.

View attachment 552467

I will start checking all suggestions after one more cup of coffee.

Correct. We expect it to have power.
Did you pull the fuse and check it or did you just use a test light and touch the top of it?

Like I mentioned. A blade fuse has two metal spots on the top of it to test both sides of the fuse. If it's blown, the input blade will have power but the output blade won't.


I'm just covering all bases. Maybe you know that already but it can be missed.

The ammeter is the voltage reader for cluster. Give me a few minutes

 

[MatHaas]

Hey, power comes to the switch but none comes out at any other position.
Problem is the switch!
Key switches have a spring loaded wiper arm that makes the contacts.
They dab some lubricant to deter wear and improve conductivity.
What very often happens is that lubricant drys up, hardens and prevents contact from occurring.
In other words the spring action is not sufficient to overcome the hard lube resistance.

One thing I have done is to spray some WD40 into the key slot and wiggle work the key a bit and that has restored operation.

Try that, nothing to lose.

PS: I have dismantled a few as I like to find what caused the problem.

Dude, read his post. he has no power to any post on the ignition switch... come on.

 

[MatHaas]

Looking at your posted schematic I have a few questions and I'll be making a couple of assumptions;
lets list the numbered components first,
#1 battery
#2 a grounding block ???
#5 alternator
#6 starter
#7 fuse block
#12 key switch
#13 push to start switch???
#14 ????
#19 voltage regulator ?
#20 ????

So power flow from #1 battery positive to #6 starter main lug,
from #6 starter main lug wire #(2) to fuse block #7 isolated fuse,
from isolated fuse using wire #(3) to item #12 (key switch),
from #12 to item #13 (push button?) using wire #(5) also from #12 to item #5 (alternator) positive reference,
from #13 to item #28 using wire #(10), from #28 to starter activation terminal on item #6 starter,
item #13 also feeds fuse block item #7
item #19 also feeds fuse block item #7 from item #5 (alternator) thru wire #(8) to item #19 and wire #(7)

So you need power from the battery #1 to the starter #6, from the piggy backed wire on the starter to the isolated fuse in the fuse block#7 to the main switch #12
to the device #13 to the switch #28, to the starter activation post on #6

12 is the ammeter, 13 is the key switch.

 

[Krash]

"Did you pull the fuse and check it or did you just use a test light and touch the top of it?"

I am using a digital volt/ohm meter. The blade fuse tested good. No problem with any of the fuses on the fuse block. It looks to me like the only way for the ignition switch to get power is thru the ammeter? I pulled all of them and checked for continuity. I also tested for voltage on all of them, both sides. Only 7 has power on both sides. No voltage at any other fuses. All are good.